Monday 12 September 2022

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - A Day In Dogliani

Anna Maria Abbona
My first visit was to Anna Maria Abbona. Celina took great care of me and I also got to talk a while with Anna Maria who started 35 years ago when the production was 600 bottles...  Now the estate has 22 ha, most over 500 m over sea level, and produce around 100.000 bottles per year. 

NV Netta Brut
6 gr. The nose is cool and even elegant with notes of dry peach, tangerines and gravel. Very good.
The taste is nicely structured and feels more dry, in a good way, then the 6 gr indicates. Made from Nascetta grapes.
87p   (tasted 2022/09)

2021 Netta
Also Nascetta grapes. A fine, light, peppery nose with notes of grey pears, lemon and chrushed rocks.
The taste is cool and fine with notes of white pepper, lemon peel and gravel. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2022/09)

2017 Langhe Riesling L´Alman
This is a serious Riesling, with a refined nose filled with notes of grape, birch leaves and hints of petrol. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and fine with notes of white flowers, grape and minerals. A very good acidity. Steely.
90p   (tasted 2022/09)

2018 Langhe Riesling L´Alman
From this vintage 10% gets some time in used tonneaux. It makes the wine a tad rounder both on the nose and on the palate, with the same characteristics as the 2017. I prefer the steely, non oaked style.
87p   (tasted 2022/09)

2021 Rosà
50% Nebbiolo and 50% Pinot Noir. A fresh, stony nose with notes of grapefruit, red currants and gravel. Very nice.
The taste is pure and stony with fine fruit, a good acidity and decent length. A light, fine Rosé.
86p   (tasted 2022/09)

2021 Langhe Dolcetto
Fresh and forward, this sports a light blueberry- and lingonberry nose with some forest floor added.
The taste is clean and dry with the same blueberry- and lingonberry fruit as on the nose. An easy going, fresh Dolcetto.
86p   (tasted 2022/09)

2021 Barbera d´Alba
An open, direct nose with fine raspberry fruit, forest floor and gravel. A fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is cool and dry with notes of ripening raspberries, herbs and a hint of tobacco. A fine acidity.
87p   (tasted 2022/09)

2019 Scavis
The estates first go at a Pinot Nero. One year in used tonneaux. The nose is open and warm with a very fine fruit, notes of fir wood, ripe raspberries and moist earth. A fine complexity.
The taste is spicy and earthy with great fruit, a fine acidity and a long, intense finish. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2022/09)

2021 Dogliani Sorì Dij But
A deep, velvety nose with a melange of red fruit and additional notes of fresh herbs and violets. Very, very good.
The taste is young and tight with a fine tannin structure and very good fruit. 4+ years.
90p   (tasted 2022/09)

2019 Dogliani Superiore Maioli
20 months in big barrels. The nose is large scaled with lots of spice, ripe blueberries, iron and hints of tobacco. Very fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of blueberries, damsons, licorice and assorted spices. Long and fine. 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/09)

2016 Dogliani Superiore San Bernardo
The best Dolcetto I have ever tasted. From vines planted in 1943. The nose soars up from the glass with stunning notes of ripe blueberries, hard cherry candy, furniture polish and licorice en masse!
The taste is tight and beautifully concentrated with notes of licorice covered cherries, iron, dried up blueberry jam and forest floor. Finely balanced. Silky tannins. Great wine. 8+ years.
95p   (tasted 2022/09)

2019 Langhe Nebbiolo
A cool, seedy nose with fine cherry fruit and some fir wood and undergrowth notes.
The taste is still young and tight with fresh tannins and a very good cherry fruit. 3+ years.
87p   (tasted 2022/09)

2016 Cadó Langhe Rosso
90% Barbera and 10% Dolcetto that gets two years in used tonneaux. The nose is large scaled, burly and concentrated but I find a oaky sweetness not really to my liking.
The taste is big and fiery with notes of inky raspberry jam, scorched earth and fir wood. The finish is good though. Not for me.
82p   (tasted 2022/09)

2017 Barolo 
A very fine, traditional Barolo with notes of rosehips, dried cherries, autumn leaves and hints of tobacco. 
The taste is tight and fine with a good harmony between fruit, acidity and tannins. Very, very good. 4+ years.
90p   (tasted 2022/09)

2015 Barolo Bricco San Pietro
From the gigantic MGA Bricco San Pietro, the largest in Barolo with 380 ha. A deep, focused nose with gorgeous notes of Langhe earth, mushrooms, ripe red cherries, tobacco and iron.
The taste is bold and beautiful with notes of hard cherry candy, forest floor, dried flowers, asphalt and hints of truffle. Very long with distinct tannins. 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/09)

Anna Maria

The Ca`Viola estate started in 1991 - not the greatest vintage to begin in - but Beppe Caviola has turned this into a beautiful estate who makes very good wines. Monica took great care of me and poured these wines.

2021 Clem Riesling
This Riesling grows on 600 meters altitude and offers up a crisp, cool nose with notes of lemon licorice, grape and lots of minerals. Very good.
The taste is young and stern with notes of dry melon, lemon peel and chrushed rocks. A fine length.
87p   (tasted 2022/09)

2021 Dolcetto d´Alba Vilot
The Vilot is a perky Dolcetto with notes of ink, earth and a fine mix of blue- and raspberries. 
The taste is young and tight with notes of ripening blueberries, sand and fresh herbs. Needs 3+ years.
88p   (tasted 2022/09)

2021 Dolcetto d´Alba Barturot
The big brother Barturot comes from 70 year old vines and has been produced since the start in 1991. The nose is deep and concentrated with notes of damsons, blueberries, shoe polish, ink and dry tobacco. Very fine.
The taste is rich and structured with silky Dolcetto tannins and gorgeous blueberry fruit. Tight. This will age well. 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/09)

2020 Barbera d´Alba Brichet
A very good, earthy nose with notes of ripe flowers, ripe raspberries and leather. Very open.
The taste is pure and fine with a fine acidity and very good raspberry fruit. Very good. For drinking now and the coming 6+ years.
87p   (tasted 2022/09)

2020 Barbera d´Alba Bric de Luv
A very deep, tight and forceful nose with notes of ripe raspberries, asphalt, Finnish licorice and tobacco. Very, very deep.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of raspberry licorice, asphalt, dried flowers and a brilliant acidity. Very fine.
92p   (tasted 2022/09)

2021 Langhe Nebbiolo Rangone
A cool, restrained nose with a fine cherry fruit, notes of earth, rosehips and gravel. 
The taste is tight and seedy with fine Nebbiolo tannins, a good lenght and a taut structure. 5+ years.
87p   (tasted 2022/09)

2018 Barolo Caviòt
A nicely perfumed, elegant nose with notes of dried strawberries, forest floor, tobacco and leather. Very fine.
The taste is long, lingering and nicely structured with a very fine red fruit, polished tannins and a great mouth feel. Needs 6+ years in the cellar.
92p   (tasted 2022/09)

2018 Barolo Sotto Castello di Novello
The Sotto Castello di Novello is a stunner. The nose is deep, focused and concentrated with notes of ripe strawberries, orange peel, tobacco and sand. Complex and fine.
The taste is rich and juicy with finely polished tannins, a great structure and notes of violets, dried flowers, strawberries and asphalt. Lovely. 6+ years.
95p   (tasted 2022/09)

Attilio is a charming man that has strong opions on what constitutes a great wine, and he seems to be right since his wines are just that, great. A fantastic visit.

2018 Alta Langhe Psea
This 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay blend offers up a fresh, crisp nose with  notes of lemon peel, grass and lots of chrushed rocks. Very, very good.
The taste is pure and racy with a saline acidity, lovely lemon fruit and creamy finish, which is impressing since its no sugar added. 
90p   (tasted 2022/09)

2020 Langhe Riesling
A fresh, upfront nose with notes of a petrol station, green olives, birch leaves and wet stones. Very, very good.
The taste is elegant and fine with notes of white peach, petrol, sand and grass. A very fine finish. 
90p   (tasted 2022/09)

2021 Langhe Chardonnay Maestro
This Chard spends 6 months on used barriques and sports a nice, creamy nose with notes of lime cream, dry fudge and white flowers. 
The taste is cool and spicy with notes of butter biscuits, warm grass, slate and lemon cream. 
89p   (tasted 2022/09)

2021 Dogliani San Luigi
A fresh, earthy nose with a fine mix of blue- and raspberries with additional notes of iron, herbs and minerals.
The taste is upfront and juicy with notes of ripe blueberries, damsons, iron and a fine peppery note. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2022/09)

2020 Dogliani Superiore Sirì d´Jermu
A deep, restrained, focused nose with notes of violets, ripe blue- and raspberries, minerals and ink. Lovely.
The taste is tight and inky with stunning fruit, silky tannins, a fresh acidity and a long finish. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/09)

Attilio wonders if the Sirì d´Jermu is any good - not to worry - its great!

2019 Dogliani Superiore Bricco Botti
From 70 year old vines this Dolcetto offers up a tight, concentrated nose with notes of ripe cherries, blueberries, ink and herbs. A tad closed but there lots going on in the glass.
The taste is as closed on the palate as on the nose. This will need bottle age. But there is plenty of locked up fruit, a fine structure for aging and great potential. 8+ years.
91p   (tasted 2022/09)

2020 Langhe Nebbiolo Botti
An open, forward nose with notes of red apples, dried cherries, earth and rosehips. Very good.
The taste is cool and gulpable with a fine cherry fruit, silky tannins and a medium long finish.
87p   (tasted 2022/09)

2019 Langhe Nebbiolo Bricco Ravera
This is a blend of grapes from three vineyards. This is nicely concentrated and deep on the nose with a great cherry fruit and notes of violets, forest floor and paint. Very fine.
The taste is tight and focused with a very fine tannic grip, sweet cherry fruit and a long, licorice infused finish. This is going to age well. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/09)

2018 Barolo San Giuseppe
The San Giuseppe is also a blend from different vineyards. The nose is tight and fine with notes of hard cherry candy, earth, rosehips and dry licorice. 
The taste is old school and rustically refined with a very fine cherry fruit, stern tannins and a long finish that needs a couple of years to come around. 5+ years.
91p   (tasted 2022/09)

2017 Barolo Bussia
The Bussia is round and open with fine notes of ripe cherries, licorice, leather and hot earth. Very fine.
The taste is structured and warm with notes of cherry licorice, earth, mushrooms and dried flowers. A long, warm finish. Will be drinking even greater in a couple of years time. 
93p   (tasted 2022/09)

2018 Barolo Le Coste di Monforte
The Le Coste di Monforte is a beauty. The nose is tight and refined with notes of rose petals, licorice, hard cherry candy, asphalt and matchbox. Very complex and fine.
The taste is pure, tight and focused with gorgeous fruit, silky tannins, a firm structure and a long, long finish. Great wine. 8+ years.
95p   (tasted 2022/09)

Attilio is justifiably proud over the his Barlo Le Coste di Monforte

Between the visits to Ca´Viola and Pecchenino I went to the central part of Dogliani and Bottega del Vino Dogliani where the heaven for Dolcetto freaks are.

Lunch! The best place is Osteria Battaglino and I had a table booked. A great lunch as you can see below :-)

Fried ceps

Carne cruda!

Finanziera filled pasta

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