Wednesday, 20 April 2022

2004 Barolo - 5 Producers & 18 Bottles

Oxcheeks & Barolo

A couple of weeks ago, S invited to a tasting. Little did we know that it would be great expose over the 2004 vintage in Barolo, seen through 5 producer.

Upon arrivel I really liked the 04 vintage and the Barolo Boys were in Langhe in 2008 tasting and buying. I did however (and still do) think that the 2001 (and maybe the 2008) vintage is superior. Over time I have been less sure of the 04 as a fine vintage with bottles that really haven´t been as good as I remembered. 

But after this evening I am yet a believer  :-) These wines performed really well and for the most part was nowhere near maturity.
All wines tasted double blind.

Renato Ratti
2004 Barolo Conca
The only corked bottle but still #¤#%¤#"!!
No rating   (tasted 2022/04)

2004 Barolo Marcenasco
A warm, somewhat evolved nose with notes of mushrooms, licorice and chocolate biscuits. Round and good.
The taste is lush and fine with soft tannins and warm fruit. A long, nice finish. Way back in time, between 1965 (first vintage) and 1969, this was a single vineyard Barolo (from Conca) but is since 1970 a blend.
87p   (tasted 2022/04)


2004 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata
A deep, taut nose with notes of ripe red cherries, licorice, smoke and a hint of mint. Finely perfumed. A hint of maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and fine with notes of red cherries, asphalt and rosehips. Silky tannins. Long. 4+ years.
90p   (tasted 2022/04)


Marengo
2004 Barolo
A fine, round nose with notes of dark strawberries, earth and sun warm asphalt. A very fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is dry and fine with notes of dried strawberries, dried flowers and forest floor. Almost fully mature. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2022/04)

2004 Barolo Bricco Viole
A deep, lovely nose with notes of roses, juniper berries, violets (!) and red cherries. Very fine.
The taste is silky and structured with notes of iron, rowan berries, dried flowers and rosehips. Long. 4+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/04)


2004 Barolo Brunate
A very deep, almost meaty nose with notes of wet cement, ripe cherries, asphalt and rosehips en masse. Very fine.
The taste is broad and tight with lots of ripe red berries, fresh tannins and a long, stern finish. Needs 6+ years. 
93p   (tasted 2022/04)

2004 Barolo Riserva Vecchia Vigna della Brunate
The first vintage of the Brunate Riserva, and its a gorgeous creature. A wonderful, floral, complex nose with notes of iron, ripe red cherries, forest floor and rosehips. Very, very deep.
The taste is massive yet tight and elegant with notes of dried strawberries, earth, iron, asphalt and dried mushrooms. The finish goes on for minutes. 4+ years.
96p   (tasted 2022/04)



Azelia
2004 Barolo
A tight, structured nose with notes of sage, dark cherries and salt licorice. Very, very good.
The taste is seedy and concentrated with notes of hard cherry candy, cherry licorice, tiles and rosehips. Very long. Very fine for a Normale. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/04)

2004 Barolo Margheria
The Margheria offers up a high, earthy nose with notes of violets en masse, bakelite and ripe strawberries. Just lovely.
The taste is taut and fine with notes of sandelwood, violets, dried cherries and asphalt. Very fine tannins. Great wine. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/04)



2004 Barolo Bricco Fiasco
A stunner. The nose is bottomless deep and hauntingly beautiful with notes of ripe black cherries, black tea, red lacquer and asphalt. Gorgeous.
The taste is seamless and very, very long with everything, except maturity, in place. Just wait 8+ year and this will be a candidate for perfection. 
96p   (tasted 2022/04)

2004 Barolo San Rocco
Tighter and more withdrawn than the Bricco Fiasco. A very deep, structured nose with black fruit, iron and chrushed rocks. Even with time in the glass this will not budge right now.
The taste is firm and focused with lots of taut tannins and locked in fruit. This needs plenty of time in the cellar, 10+ years.
93p   (tasted 2022/04)


Vietti
2004 Barolo Castiglione
A very deep, open nose with notes of ripe strawberries, earth and rosehips. Very, very good.
The taste is more structured with notes of salmiak, rosehips, dried flowers and asphalt. Long and fine. 4+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/04)

2004 Barolo Rocche
A very refined, laid back nose with notes of a shady forest, red cherries, dark cookies and hints of charcoal. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of smoke, ripe cherries, dry licorice and warm gravel. Very long and finely tuned. 7+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/04)


2004 Barolo Brunate
A lovely nose with notes of sandelwood, sweet cherries, asphalt and rosehips. Very deep. 
The taste is young and focused with notes of ripe cherries, cold coffee, sandelwood and licorice. Very, very long. Silky tannins. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/04)

2004 Barolo Lazzarito
The Lazzarito oozes up from the glass with stunning notes of smoke, dried up cherry jam, dark flowers and sun warm asphalt. Fantastic. 
The taste is taut and multi layered with notes of hard cherry candy, bonfire smoke, asphalt and rosehips. Lots of tannins but the fruit takes care of them. Really, really fine. 7+ years.
95p   (tasted 2022/04)



Cavallotto
2004 Barolo Bricco Boschis
A deep, intricate nose with notes of ripe cherries, shoe polish, tobacco, cold coffee and lots of roses. Very fine.
The taste is racy and refined with notes of warm tiles, cherry licorice, tobacco and forest floor. Balanced and fine. Silky tannins. Long. 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2022/04)

2004 Barolo Riserva Vignolo
Pure, deep and elegant, the nose flows up from the glass. Gorgeous fruit. Multilayered. Very fine.
The taste is brilliant with fruit, tannins, acidity and structure in lovely harmony. Just wait 7+ years.
95p   (tasted 2022/04)



2004 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe
Why not save the best for last? The nose oozes up from the glass with stunning notes of rose petals, iron, dried strawberries, earth and tiles. Seamless. Beautiful.
The taste just got it all - fruit, tannins, acidity in a almost perfect mix. Just wait 8+ years to add the complexity of maturity. Really great juice.
97p   (tasted 2022/04)

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