1988 Coltassala, Castello di Volpaia
A mature, warm, round nose with notes of black cherries, black olive tapenade, asphalt and old leather. A fine warmth. Some asphalt scents after a while. Fully mature. Good.
The taste is mature and warm with notes of dried cherries, leather, warm gravel and rosemary. A fine warmth. Medium long. Some tobacco. This har matured nicely but is on its last leg. 95% Sangiovete and 5% Mammolo.
85p (tasted 2016/02)
1988 Vigna Il Chiuso, Castello di Ama
A whole another ball game - a high, spirited, deep, nose with lovely notes of sweet red and black cherries, wood smoke, dried flowers, dried raspberries and dark spices. This sparks a lot of interest. Very, very good. Mature but not overly so, this still has a lot to offer. Great!
The taste is structured, warm and dry with notes of ripe, dried raspberries, assorted herbs, sun warm gravel, violets and a touch of Cherry Heering. The finish is long, taut and impressive, with a fine acidity. A very fine mouth feel. An odd Pinot, but really good. This is the second vintage of Il Chiuso. Probably on its peak, I will drink my remaining bottles soon, and that will not feel like a heavy task...
92p (tasted 2016/02)