Friday 27 September 2019

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visits To Fratelli Barale & Chionetti

After spending the morning and lunch in Verduno, I headed to Barolo and visited the fine old estate of Fratelli Barale. After that I drove to Dogliano to visit one of the best producer of Dolcetto, Chionetti.

Fratelli Barale
This is an old estate, founded in 1870. Eleonora, fifth generation of the Barale family, welcomed me, showed me the impressive cellar and poured the fine wines below. I recently tasted two older bottles from the estate.

2015 Sergio Barale
The first vintage of this bubbly was the 2005. With two year on the lees, the nose jumps up from the glass with notes of chalk, dry honey, birch leaves and white pears. Crisp and fine.
The taste is refined and chalky with notes of lemon peel, chrushed rocks and birch sap. Racy. A very fine acidity.
90p   (tasted 2019/08)

2017 Dolcetto d´Alba Le Rose
A delicate, fruity nose with notes of earth, ripening blueberries and some leathary aromas.
The taste is juicy and forward with a fine, sweet blueberry fruit, notes of sand and dry tobacco. Medium long. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2019/08)

2017 Barbera d´Alba Superiore La Preda
From Castellero and from 40 year old vines this Barbera oozes up from the glass with notes of raspberry licorice, dark cookie dough, plums and sugared coffee. Rich, spicy and handsome.
The taste is tight and concentrated with a deep core of raspberry fruit alongside notes of licorice, coffee and moist earth. Very long. A fine acidity.
92p   (tasted 2019/08)

2018 Langhe Nebbiolo
From Coste di Rose this young Nebbiolo sports a fresh, herbal nose with notes of sweet lingonberries, chrushed cherries and rosehips. Pure and fine.
The taste is clean and crisp with notes of cherry pips, earth, rosehips and thyme. Charming. 2+ years.
88p   (tasted 2019/08)

2015 Barolo Castellero
The estate has 6 ha that was planted in 1971. The nose is deep, high and lovely with notes of dried cherries, rose water, root vegetabled and clay. Complex and very fine.
The taste is rich and multi layered with notes of hard cherry candy, sweet violets, roses and paint. Old viney. Finely polished tannins. 6+ years. Will open my 82 soon...
94p   (tasted 2019/08)

2015 Barolo Bussia
The Bussia is denser and darker, with fine notes of undergrowth, black cherries, tobacco and asphalt. Very deep and fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of dried up cherry jam, ski wax, dried flowers and tobacco. Very long. Broad shouldered tannins. Needs time. 8+ years.
92p   (tasted 2019/08)

2014 Barolo Cannubi
From 0,5 ha the 14 Cannubi reveals a delicate, open nose with notes of fresh flowers, chrushed rocks, rosehips and fresh mushrooms. Lively and very fine.
The taste is refined and silky with notes of ripening red cherries, asphalt and herbs. Medium bodied with a fine intensity. Very, very good. 4+ years.
92p   (tasted 2019/08)

The top producers in Dogliani lives a rather a anonymous life when you look at the current buzz regarding Langhe, and Barolo in particular. And that´s too bad, because the Dolcetto´s from Dogliano are world class wines.
Nicola of the Chionetti family welcomed me and showed me a great time at their winery.

2018 Dogliani San Luigi
A very deep, stony nose with notes of beet root, shoe polish, dark flowers and cranberries. A far cry from the run of the mill open, fruity Dolcetto d´Alba.
The taste is steady and structured with notes of ripening blueberries, cool tobacco, dried flowers and chrushed rocks. Very long and fine. 30 year old vines. 4+ years.
91p   (tasted 2019/08)

2018 Dogliani Briccolero
The Briccolero - a single vineyard and from 50 year old vines - is even more focused and concentrated than the San Luigi, with stunning notes of green peppers, red plums, moist earth and furniture polish. A gorgeous structure.
The taste is concentrated and perfumed with notes of violets, a dried up blueberry pie, tiles and cranberries. Very long. Just stunning. 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/08)

2017 Dogliani La Costa
The La Costa is only produced in special vintages. The grapes comes from the top of the Briccolero hill. The 2017 displays a very deep, concentrated nose with notes of dark black berries, undergrowth, asphalt and fir wood. Very deep and concentrated.
The taste is tight and intense with notes of ripe blueberries, warm tiles, Christmas spices and cool tobacco. The finish goes on and on. Very balanced. Lovely. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2019/08)

2017 Langhe Nebbiolo La Chiusa
A young, fresh nose with notes of dried strawberries, roses and earth. Pure and fine. Very, very good.
The taste is young and tight with notes of dry licorice, cherry pips and a hint of cocoa. Very long. 4+ years.
90p   (tasted 2019/08)

2015 Barolo Bussia Vigna Pianpolvere
The first vintage of this Barolo from Chionetti. The nose is deep, old viney and wonderful with notes of rosehips, old wrinkled red apples, allspice and dry licorice. Intense and truly fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of dried up cherries, gravel, red beets and charcoal. Very long. Great wine. 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/08)

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