Wednesday 21 June 2023

A Corton-Charlemagne & Corton Dinner

NV Mes Favorites VV, Marc Hebrart
A fine, bread filled nose with notes of assorted nuts, lemon licorice and lily of the valley. A fine depth.
The taste is tight and elegant with a fine acidity, lots of yellow fruit and a long, dry finish. Very, very good. 4+ years.
91p   (tasted 2023/06)

The Whites
1992 Corton-Charlemagne, La Maison Rouget
A large scaled, mature nose with notes of autumn apples, hay, cold tea and earth. A bit over the hill.
The taste is dry and mature with earthy notes and a tad foursquare finish. A fine warmth though.
85p   (tasted 2023/06)

1996 Corton-Charlemagne, Verget
A deep, perfectly mature nose with notes of candied lemons, grass, sweet minerals and butter biscuits. Lovely.
The taste is structured and fine, still on the young side of things, with a great acidity and mouthfeel. A great bottle of Chardonnay.
95p   (tasted 2023/06)

1999 Corton-Charlemagne, Sauvageot-Poidevin
A open, mature nose with notes of red apples, cap gun smoke and minerals. A fine depth.
The taste is dry and mature with notes of red apples, earth, minerals and dried flowers. Broad. 
90p   (tasted 2023/06)

2001 Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Champy
A large scaled, flowery nose with notes of yellow plums, peaches and ripe flowers. A bit all over the place.
The taste is narrow and good with a fine acidity, good yellow fruit and a medium long, dry finish. A tad weak for a Grand Cru.
87p   (tasted 2023/06)

2006 Corton-Charlemagne, Château Génot-Boulanger
A deep, complex nose with notes of lemon peel, cap gun smoke, iodine and sweet minerals. Very fine.
The taste is rich and rewarding with notes of matchbox, lemon cream, steel and minerals. High and fine. 4+ years.
93p   (tasted 2023/06)

2007 Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Michel Voarick
A rich, concentrated nose with notes of yellow plums, dry caramel, almond paste and earth. Very fine.
The taste is bold and multi layered with notes of candle grease, lemon candy, ripe pears and a touch of mint. Very long. This is fine.
94p   (tasted 2023/06)

2011 Corton-Charlemagne, Alex Gambal
A deep, spicy nose with notes of ripening apricots, oranges, dry fudge and minerals. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and intense with a very fine acidity, lots of sweet minerals and a long, seedy finish. 5+ years
92p   (tasted 2023/06)

2016 Corton-Charlemagne, Jonathan Banvalot
A high, pure nose with notes of lemon peel, lemon ice cream, lime fudge and chrushed rocks. Complex and fine.
The taste is racy and refined with lots of energy and focus. Lemon cream, chalk and steel. Very long. 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2023/06)

2018 Corton-Charlemagne, Buisson-Charles
A deep, young, tight nose with notes of tangerines, basil, chrushed rocks and oranges. I tad restrained. Very, very good.
The taste is racy and balanced with locked up fruit, a high acidity and a long, lingering finish. 8+ years.
91p   (tasted 2023/06)

2008 Corton-Charlemagne, Bouchard
S brought this bottle to complement the tasting. And it sure did! A handsome, elegant nose with notes of yellow pears, birch leaves. butter biscuits and wet cement. Very fine.
The taste is refined and buttery with a very silky mouthfeel, a cleansing acidity and a long, fresh finish. Still young. Really fine. 5+ years.
94p   (tasted 2023/06)

The Reds
1976 Corton, Emile Chandesais
Lots of forest floor, dried strawberries and some aged meat oozes up from the glass. A fine smoky note also. Fully mature.
The taste is soft and round but with a fine low keyed intensity and notes of dried strawberries, dried herbs and old tobacco. 
88p   (tasted 2023/06)

1983 Corton Clos du Roi, Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine
This 40 year old Corton shows of a elegant, maturing nose with notes of dried raspberries, warm sand, mushrooms and chocolate biscuits. Very, very good.
The taste is nicely structured with a fine dry note, a very good acidity and notes of dried raspberries, tobacco, forest floor and fir wood. Could still be kept for 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2023/06)

1990 Corton, Michel Vidal
A deep, focused nose with notes of wild raspberries, wet undergrowth, herbs and dark flowers. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of ripe red currants, raspberries, thai basil and licorice. Very long. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2023/06)

1995 Corton Greves, Jean Claude Belland
A restrained, tight nose with notes of earth, dry tobacco and ripening raspberries. A tad foursquare.
The taste is better with refinement and notes of ripe red currants, warm earth, herbs and tobacco. A fine lenght. Needs time. 8+ years.
88p   (tasted 2023/06)

2003 Corton Clos de Vergennes, Domaine Cachat-Ocquidant
A young, upfront nose with notes of coca-cola, ripe red apples, asphalt and hot earth. Very good in a generous way.
The taste is more structured and backward with notes of ripening strawberries, fresh herbs and forest floor. A fine acidity. 8+ years.
91p   (tasted 2023/06)

NV Moscatel de Setubal, J. M. da Fonseca
According to the seller from the 60´s but who knows? Yummy all the same. The nose is deep, semi sweet and filled with assorted nuts, dry caramel, touch of iodine and damsons. Very, very good.
The taste is big and bold with generous amounts of candied orange peels, fried nuts, damsons and detergent. Long and complex. Could probably go on for 20+ years.
92p   (tasted 2023/06)

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