Monday 27 May 2024

Masterclass With Adam Tolmach

Adam Tolmach, the founder of the Ojai estate was in Stockholm. As usual he talked about his wines with humour and seriousness, it is always a treat to listen to him. Thanks to Divine for the invite!

Flight I
2023 Estate White
Adam experiments with hybrid grapes with UC Davis, planted in 2017. Two of them, Ambulo and Caminante makes up this wine. The nose is cool and gravelly with discreet notes of black currant leaves and dried passionfruit.
The taste is stony and dry with the same black currant leaves as on the nose. A tad foursquare in the finish.
86p   (tasted 2024/05)

2023 McGinley Sauvignon Blanc
A nice depth with notes of grass, summer gravel and assorted yellow fruits. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and crisp with notes of white currants, grass and gooseberries. A very fine acidity.
90p   (tasted 2024/05)

2022 Kick On Dry Riesling
Adam informed that there was some botrytis this year but the wine is fermented out completely dry. A very interesting nose with notes of dried apricots, gasoline, ripe lemons and gravel. Very fine.
The taste is high and pure with luscious fruit, very fine lemon fruit and a long, lingering finish. Great.
93p   (tasted 2024/05)

2016 McGinley Sauvignon Blanc
A cool, restrained nose with notes of asparagus, dry grass and lemon peel. Very, very good.
The taste is dry and structured with notes of lemon peel, grass and gravel. Linear and fine.
88p   (tasted 2024/05)

Flight II
2021 Puerta del Mar SE Chardonnay
A low keyed, refined nose with notes of lemon cream, matchbox and warm summer road dust. Very fine.
The taste is fresh and racy with notes of lemon candy, cap gun smoke and grass. Handome acidity.
93p   (tasted 2024/05)

2021 Rancho Ontivers Chardonnay
A very restrained and a bit ungaunly nose with notes of, if you swirl the glass heartily, iron, lemon peel and dry grass.
The taste is more expressive with a fine lemon fruit and a fine acidity. Long and lean. This will need time. 
89p   (tasted 2024/05)

2017 Puerta del Mar SE Chardonnay
The 7 year old Puerta del Mars steals the Chardonnay show, with a deep, elegant nose with notes of cookie dough, lemon cream and yellow flowers. Very fine.
The taste is layered and somewhat mature with notes of lemon fudge, steel and a fine smoky note. Lovely.
94p   (tasted 2024/05)

2016 Bien Nacido Chardonnay
A deep, smoky nose with notes of dried up vanilla ice cream, asphalt and fir smoke. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and still on the young side of things with notes of lemon cake, freshly cut grass and fudge. Rich and fine.
91p   (tasted 2024/05)

Flight III
2022 Santa Barbara Pinot Noir
The grapes comes from three different sites. The nose is fine and earthy with notes of chrushed raspberries, asphalt and herbs. 
The taste is cool and elegant with notes of ripening raspberries, licorice and forest floor. A light, fine acidity.
89p   (tasted 2024/05)

2021 Kessler Haak Pinot Noir
A deep, meaty Pinot nose with fine earthy scents and additional notes of overripe strawberries, smoke and herbs.
The taste is nicely concentrated with notes of ripe raspberries, fried herbs and tobacco. Very, very good. 
91p   (tasted 2024/05)

2022 Fe Ciega Discipulo Pinot Noir
There is a darker character, in style that of a fine Barbera, with notes of ripe raspberries, smoke, fried herbs and a moist forest floor. Lovely.
The taste is structured and fine with depth, intensity and sweet, red fruit. Very handsome. 
94p   (tasted 2024/05)

2012 Fe Ciega Pinot Noir
This 12 year old Fe Ciega displays a deep, open nose with notes of dried meat, dried raspberries, mushrooms and mocha. Very fine.
The taste is still focused and concentrated with notes of dried strawberries, moist earth, tobacco and a fine balsamic note. 
93p   (tasted 2024/05)

Flight IV
2022 Estate Red
Another hybrid grape is Paseante Noir. The nose is cool and Dolcetto styled with notes of blueberries, ink and violets.
The taste is tight with stern tannins, a dry finish and notes of damsons, violets and earth.
87p   (tasted 2024/05)

2022 Santa Barbara Syrah
A high, pure nose with notes of blackberries, smoke, violets and herbs. Lovely fruit. Very deep.
The taste is structured and refined with notes of ripe blueberries, fir wood, asphalt and black pepper. Very long. Will be released on the monopoly in August.
93p   (tasted 2024/05)

2021 Roll Ranch Syrah
The first vintage of Roll Ranch was 1995. The 2021 version offers up a spicy, peppery nose with notes of violets, tires, asphalt and blackberries. Very fine.
The taste is pure and ripe with notes of damsons, violets, tobacco and spices. Very, very long. Really fine.
95p   (tasted 2024/05)

2012 Roll Ranch Syrah
A deep, meaty nose with some mature traits and notes of blackberries, fir wood, gasoline and a touch of mint.
The taste is nicely structured with notes of peppered meat, herbs, tiles and dried blueberries. Long, warm and fine.
92p   (tasted 2024/05)

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