Thursday, 19 January 2023

Eating & Drinking In Piedmont 2022

January of 2022
The purpose of this visit was to attend Grandi Langhe but because of covid outbursts here and there Grandi Langhe was moved to April. But we went anyway and made a lot of visits, see below. 
We also ate and drank well...:-)





2019 Nebbiolo d´Alba Vigna Valmaggiore, Bruno Giacosa
Dinner at La Coccinella, best place in Langhe. A earthy, dry nose with notes of licorice, dark cherries, coffee powder and violets. Very deep.
The taste is young and tight with a fine concentration, black fruit and polished tannins. 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2022/01)





2016 Barolo Castelletto, Mauro Veglio
An almost ethereal nose with gorgeous notes of ripe strawberries, bonfire smoke, licorice, forest floor and tar. Very fine.
The taste is complex and multi layered with notes of ripe red cherries, licorice, smoke and assorted herbs. Very long. 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2022/01)




2019 Anas-Cëtta, Elvio Cogno
Dinner at Osteria Veglio, the second best place in Langhe.  A fine, open nose with notes of peaches, dry passionfruit, white pepper and birch sap. Very juicy and fine.
The taste is racy and elegant with notes of lemon peel, passionfruit and some grassy elements. A fine acidity. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2022/01)



2019 Langhe Nebbiolo, Bartolo Mascarello
Dinner at Osteria Veglio. A wonderfully perfumed LN from Maria Teresa with notes of Christmas spices, Langhe earth, dried cherries and asphalt. Very fine.
The taste is silky and perfumed with notes of cherries, tobacco, spices and red plums. A long, lingering finish. Great wine. 5+ years, but impossible to resist today.
94p   (tasted 2022/01)





Finanziera!


2016 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata, Rocche Costamagna
A deep, open nose with notes of ripe cherries, raspberry licorice, sandewood and a hint of cinnamon. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of hard cherry candy, licorice, asphalt and rosehips. Very long. Juicy tannins. 7+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/01)


September of 2022
One more visit in 2022, this time only visits to producers that I haven´t visited before, 14 in total, see below. And one has to eat...

2017 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata, Rocche Costamagna
90p   (tasted 2022/08)


2018 Langhe Nebbiolo, Bartolo Mascarello
Lunch at Osteria Battaglione in Dogliani. A open, spicy nose with notes of Lange earth, dried cherries, violets and porcini. Very, very good.
The taste is open and elegant with notes of red apples, licorice, earth and warm herbs. Silky tannins. 4+ years.
93p   (tasted 2022/09)






2020 Langhe Nebbiolo, Giuseppe Rinaldi
Dinner at La Coccinella, the best place ever. I had a glass of Arnais to start with that was good but I didn´t make a note on it. The LN from Rinaldi offers up a handsome, balanced nose with great mix of strawberries and red cherries paired with licorice, herbs and Langhe earth. Very fine.
The taste is cool and elegant with silky tannins and boatloads of red fruits. A long finish with a high energy. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/01)






2021 Dolcetto d´Alba, Schiavenza
Lunch at Schivenza´s restaurant in Serralunga. Open, fresh and juicy, this Dolcetto could be drunk in gallons. 
89p   (tasted 2022/09)






2011 Roero Arneis, Belmondo
Lunch at Vineria Sociale in La Morra. Fresh as a mountain river with gorgeous notes of white pepper, yellow apples and some steely notes.
89p   (tasted 2022/01)





2017 Barolo la Foia, Marco Curto
Lunch at Vineria Sociale in La Morra. An open, deep nose with notes of ripe cherries, licorice, rosehips and tobacco. Very fine.
The taste is broad and juicy with lots of ripe cherry fruit, soft tannins and long, long finish. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/01)


NV Tradtion, Pierre Brocard
Lunch at Centro Storico in Serralunga. Ciccio pours this bubbly and it delievers a chalky, handsome nose with notes of yellow apples, sage and candied lemons. Very, very good.
The taste is crisp and racy with fine yellow fruit, a fresh acidity and a delicate finish. A lovely drink.
90p   (tasted 2022/09)






2020 Dolcetto di Diano d´Alba Garabei, Giovanni Abrigo
Lunch at Centro Storico in Serralunga. A recommandation from Ciccio. The nose is nicely focused with a lovely Dolcetto character in the form om ripe blueberries, iron, licorice and in this case a hint of cinnamon.
The taste is young and tigth with very fine fruit, a great tannin structure for aging and a long, lingering finish. A producer to visit!
91p   (tasted 2022/09)


2020 Anas-Cëtta, Elvio Cogno
Dinner at Bovio in La Morra. A fine depth but a tad buttery and rich with candied lemons, lemon licorice and sweet minerals.
The taste is rich and mineraly with notes of dried up vanilla ice cream, candied lemons and gravel. A tad heavy.
85p   (tasted 2022/09)

The winelist...






2019 Langhe Nebbiolo, Giuseppe Rinaldi
Dinner at Bovio in La Morra. A very deep, concentrated yet high nose with notes of forest floor, tobacco, paint and hard cherry candy. Very fine.
The taste is open and delicate with notes of hard cherry candy, Langhe earth, tobacco and violets. A very fine warmth. 3+ years.
93p   (tasted 2022/09)


Visits January 2022:

Visits September 2022:

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Monday, 16 January 2023

Three Bottles Of Vintage Port

1997 Fonseca Vintage Port
A rich, decadent nose with notes of figs, dark chocolate, asphalt and fried nuts. Darkly perfumed. Very fine.
The taste is taut and structured with notes of sweet violets, chocolate, dried mushrooms and dates. A long, long concentrated finish. Way too young, wait 15+ years. 
94p   (tasted 2022/12)


1991 Taylor´s Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port
A very deep, nutty nose with notes of bakelite, old leather, dried blackberries and hot earth. Some maturity.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of raspberry filled cholocate, bakelite, earth and assorted nuts. A fine dryness in the finish. Has started its way to maturity but I would wait 7+ years.
91p   (tasted 2023/01)


1994 Cockburn´s Vintage Port
A big and bold nose with notes of fried nuts, raisins, licorice chocolate and sweet black flowers. Very intense and fine.
The taste is forceful yet elegant with lots of black fruit, dates, fried nuts and scorched earth. A regal stature. Great wine. 10+ years.
94p   (tasted 2023/01)

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Saturday, 14 January 2023

Three Bottles Of Riesling

2021 Dürnsteiner Ried Hollerin Smaragd Riesling, Alzinger
A fine, chalky nose with notes of dry yellow apples, dried peaches, spices and a hint of  lemon licorice. 
The taste is cool and collected with a fine acidity, dried peaches and lemons and some gravelly notes. 
89p   (tasted 2022/12)



2013 Steinartal Riesling, Alzinger
A very deep, delicate nose with notes of dried apricots, smoke, orange peel, almond paste and dried up vanilla ice cream. A fine maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is elegant and spicy with a crisp acidity, intense fruit and a long, lingering finish. Really fine. Almost fully mature.
92p   (tasted 2022/12)

2015 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese, Schäfer-Fröhlich
A handsome, refined nose with notes of candied lemons, chrushed rocks, peaches and dried strawberries. Complex and fine.
The taste is pure and racy with notes of peaches, sweet lime, lemon cream and lots and lots of sweet minerals. A cleansing acidity. High and very fine.
93p   (tasted 2022/12)


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Thursday, 12 January 2023

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2022


Time to do the annual list over the wines that has left the biggest impressions in my memory. 823 wines tasted during the year of which 204 was a Barolo.

Here are the most memorable bottles of 2022 in vintage order.
A toast for a great 2023!

NV Palo Cortado Bota Unico 1/1 S. Roberto, Barbadillo
I don´t know how many times I have said it - I drink too little Sherry! This beauty made me say it again, I have to do something about it, maybe during 2023? Barolista: Some Sultry Spaniards
99p   (tasted 2022/12)


1988 Château d´Yquem
Yquem is Yquem. In a interesting all Sauternes tasting dinner - Barolista: A Sauternes Tasting Dinner - this really delivered the goods.
98p   (tasted 2022/10)


1990 Barolo Cannubi, Paolo Scavino
Mature Barolo is hard to beat. This stunner from Scavino was in a perfect place when tasted in January - Barolista: Pilled Up Notes - Great Wines Tasted in January - Pira, Scavino, Galatrona, Grand-Puy-Lacoste & More.
97p   (tasted 2022/01)


1996 SLV, Stag´s Leap
As I wrote in my tasting note - this is what dreams are made of. Perfectly mature in a perfect time to drink - Barolista: Lunch Tasting With Wines From Stag´s Leap.
99p   (tasted 2022/06)


2004 & 2006 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe, Cavallotto
Two in one! I was lucky to taste both the 2004 and 2006 Vigna San Guíuseppe during the year, both stunning Baroli with a great future ahead of them.
97/97p   (tasted 2022/04/12)



2010 Gevrey-Chambertin VV 1er Cru Les Cherbaudes, Pierre Naigeon
Only 265 bottles made of this beauty, I wish I could get hold of the remaining 264... - Barolista: 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru Les Cherbaudes, Pierre Naigeon.
96p   (tasted 2022/07)


2016 Dogliani Superiore San Bernardo, Anna Maria Abbona
Tasted at the estate when I visited in September. The best Dolcetto I have ever tasted, really great stuff - 
95p   (tasted 2022/09)


2016 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda, Massolino
The second perfect wine this year (see the first below) and to add to the joy, I had a wonderful visit at the Massolino estate with the perfect host, Franco Massolino - Barolista: A Couple Of Days in Piedmont - Visit To Massolino.
100p   (tasted 2022/09)


2018 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline, Guigal
I have been fortunate enough to taste several vintages of the La-La´s from Guigal upon release, but the 2018 blew me away with its elegance, refinement and intensity. Perfect now and probably perfect forever - Barolista: 2018 La Mouline, La Turque & La Landonne.
100p   (tasted 2022/05)


2019 Premium Chardonnay, Bass Philip
An utter delight to taste, the first time for me tasting anything from this estate. Looking forward to open a bottle of this stunning juice - Barolista: Two Fine Producers From Down Under - Bass Phillip & Punt Road.
97p   (tasted 2022/02)





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Wednesday, 11 January 2023

1991 Château de la Rivière


1991 Château de la Rivière
Another fine bottle from this underrated estate (see below for other vintages). The nose is classic Bordeaux with notes of lead pencil shavings, worn leather, dried black currants and cold coffee. A fine maturity.
The taste is medium bodied, dry and mature with nice black currant fruit, tobacco and gravel. A tad hollow in the middle but all in all a nice luncheon claret as Michael Broadbent used to say.
86p   (tasted 2023/01)


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Tuesday, 10 January 2023

2006 Barolo - Eleven Bottles Tasted


S invited to a tasting and we had no clue that it was a follow up tasting to the tasting he aranged in April of this year when the theme was 2004 Barolo - Barolista: 2004 Barolo - 5 Producers & 18 Bottles
This time is was 2006 Baroli that was poured. One corked bottle but otherwise some really fine bottles.

I found these 2006 still on the young side of things, needing at least 5+ years to reach the state of maturity I love in a Barolo.
All wines tasted double blind.

M. Marengo
2006 Barolo
Unfortunately corked.
No rating   (tasted 2022/12)

2006 Barolo Bricco Viole
A deep, forward nose with notes of forest floor, Christmas spices, red tea and cooked red cherries. Very fine. Some maturity.
The taste is broad and balanced with lovely sweet fruit, lots of silky tannins and a long, long finish with a fine warmth. 4+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/12)


2006 Barolo Brunate
A tad subdued, deep nose with notes of rosehips, dried raspberries, fir wood, salmiak and earth. Pure and fine.
The taste is restrained and focused with notes of iron, cherry pips, earth and fir wood. Long. Needs time, 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2022/12)

2006 Barolo Vecchia Vigne delle Brunate
A deep, gorgeous nose with notes of mushrooms, dark flowers, violets, corinthians and fir wood. Really fine.
The taste is brilliant with intensity, focus and restrained power. Lots of structure for aging. Dried rose petals, violets, hard cherry candy, moist earth. 6+ years. Great wine.
96p   (tasted 2022/12)


Conterna Fantino
2006 Barolo Vigna del Gris
A tight, fine nose with notes of black flowers, iron, black cherries and a hint of mint. Very deep and fine.
The taste is backward and structured with lots of black fruit locked up for now. Very long with a fine bitterness in the finish. 7+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/12)

2006 Barolo Mosconi
Always my favourite in the Conterno Fantino line up. This time too. The nose is handsome and deep with fine notes of licorice, fine tobacco, ripe cherries and bakelite. Intense.
The taste is tight and concentrated with juicy tannins, boatloads of black cherry fruit and a long, iron clad finish. Really fine. 8+ years.
95p   (tasted 2022/12)


2006 Barolo Sorì Ginestra
A deep, refined nose with notes of sandelwood, ripe cherries, asphalt and a lovely perfumed note. Cool and collected.
The taste is balanced and rich with gorgeous notes of black cherries, iron, asphalt, licorice and rosehips. The finish goes on and on. This needs plenty of time, 10+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/12)


Cavallotto
2006 Barolo Bricco Boschis
A delicate, laid back nose with notes of smoke, forest floor, black cherries and lots of wild flowers. Very fine.
The taste is tight and elegant with gorgeous cherry fruit, silky tannins and a long, luscious finish. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/12)

2006 Barolo Vignolo
A very deep, pure nose with notes of forest floor, ripe raspberries, licorice and assorted spices. Lovely.
The taste is tight and nicely concentrated with notes of sandelwood, black cherries, rosehips and dried flowers. Very balanced. 6+ years.
95p   (tasted 2022/12)


2006 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe
A brilliant nose with depth, intensity and refinement. There are notes of ripe cherries, red apples, paint, chocolate biscuits, rosehips, licorice and charcoal. Very complex.
The taste is an almost perfect combination of juicy fruit, a taut structure with polished tannins and a lenght that keeps going on and on. A candidate for perfection in 6-8 years.
97p   (tasted 2022/12)

One extra bottle
2006 Barolo Cannubi Boschis, Sandrone
With the recent passing of Luciano Sandrone, it seems in handsight that this was a appropriate tribute to the great Barolista that he was. 1990 and 2001 Cannubi Boschis have for me been perfect wines on several occasions.
The 2006 opens up with a deep, complex nose with notes of ripe black cherries, cold coffee, nougat, damp earth and licorice. Very fine.
The taste is rich and focused with gorgeous black fruit, perfectly polished tannins and long, long finish. Great wine. 5+ years.
96p   (tasted 2022/12)


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Saturday, 7 January 2023

1985 Santenay-Maladière, Domaine Prieur-Brunet


1985 Santenay-Maladière, Domaine Prieur-Brunet
A very deep, autumn forest full nose with additional notes of root vegetables, fried herbs, smoke and violets. Fully mature, sweet and very, very good.
The taste is round, sweet and mature with notes of dried strawberries, herbs, forest floor and dry licorice. Holding up very well in the glass throughout the evening.
89p   (tasted 2023/01)

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Thursday, 5 January 2023

2010 Barolo, Elio Altare


2010 Barolo, Elio Altare
A delicate, attractive nose with notes of forest floor, semi dried cherries, violets and polished furniture. Some maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is tighter than the nose leads you to believe with some still forward tannins, gorgeous cherry fruit and a long, dry, distinct finish. Very fine. 4+ years. 
93p   (tasted 2023/01)
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Wednesday, 4 January 2023

1983 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, Daniel Tupinier


1983 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, Daniel Tupinier
This arrived a week ago with some other bottles. Upon unpacking I saw that this bottle had leaked a little bit. I opened it the same day.
The nose is mature and large scaled with notes of dried orange peel, chive, dried ginger and boatloads of chalk. Deep and fine.
The taste is tight and mineral laden with notes of dried lemons, dry grass and ginger. Reminds me of a an old Fino. Nicely balanced. I don´t know how much the leakage have affected the wine, but this is a nice drink.
88p   (tasted 2022/12)
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Monday, 2 January 2023

1985 Château d´Angludet


1985 Château d´Angludet
A fine, mature nose with all the scents that makes mature Bordeaux so good - autumn leaves, dried red and black currants, leather, fresh stables and old furniture. 
The taste is cool and mature with silky tannins and fine red fruit. Medium bodied. Leather, cold coffee and an autum forest after rain. Very, very good. 
I have had many fine bottles from this underrated estate. According to David Peppercorn "the property...missed classification only through its unhappy division" (in 1791). Peppercorn describes, among others, the 1985 as "suberb, with marvellously long flavours and great ´race´, classic Margaux".
88p   (tasted 2022/12)

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