Sunday, 9 December 2012
In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter VIII
Time again to do some soul searching - this time in the form of three bottles from the 1995 vintage. As you can see from the notes below I really enjoyed these bottles, and if they are representative for the 1995 vintage, I have to get more! They all have a lovely combination of structure, opulence and maturity.
1995 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia, Lisini
An almost ethereal, complex, lovely nose with notes of ripe cherries, violets, tea, forest floor and some sweet saw dust. Very, very deep and fine. This has a lovely mature fruit feeling combined with still a youngish structure. Just gorgeous.
The taste is tight, firm yet silky with delicious sweet cherry fruit, perfectly ripe tannins and notes of dried flowers, leather, tea and that luscious Italian gravel road note. The finish is long, steady and aristocratic. I would say that this has hit its summit, but it will stay like this for another 5+ years. Great stuff.
95p (tasted 2012/12)
1995 Brunello di Montalcino CastelGiocondo, Marchesi dè Frescobaldi
A deep, warm, round and fine nose with notes of creamy cherry fruit, forest floor, tobacco, hard cherry candy and a touch of band-aid (in a positive way). Very, very good. On its way to full maturity, but not really there yet.
The taste is pure, tight and warm with a lovely sweet and sour cherry fruit intermingled with notes of violets, licorice, tobacco and balsa wood. This has a very nice upright structure. The finish is long, warm and ends with a nice dry twist. Drinking beautifully, and will do for the coming 6-8 years.
92p (tasted 2012/12)
1995 Brunello di Montalcino, Valdicava
Right out of the bottle this has a big, warm, sturdy nose with deep notes of sugared black cherries, warm earth, tea leaves, dried flowers and leather. With air it becomes cooler with a lovely rosehip notes and later it reminds me of a semi mature Bordeaux. Complex and fine. Just entering its maturrity phase.
The taste is big, pure and just stunning with its splendid combination of sweet fruit and a taut structure. Notes of ripe cherries, red currants, rosehips, dried flowers. leather and a hint of coffee. The acidity cleans the mouth in a great way. The finish is long, pure and ends with some still young tannins. This should hit its prime in 3-5 years. Great wine!
94p (tasted 2012/12)