The Rossese Report - Part III

Claude Monet 1884

The bridge today

Finding good Rossese is almost impossible outside Liguria and even on location you have too look for it. But in the wonderful small town of Dolceacqua, made famous by Claude Monet´s painting of the ancient bridge that you find in the middle of the town (above) there is a gem.
Just a stone throw from the bridge you will find the Enoteca Trattoria Re. They have an excellent selection, not just of Rossese.

Enoteca Il Forletto in San Remo also carries the best of the bunch when it comes to Rossese. They have an impressive range from other parts of Italy as well, I found some really nice Brunello´s there. After one hour drooling over the shelf's there my better half phoned asking me if I was lost...


Claude Monet 1884

The bridge and tower today

Time for the rest of the Rossese bottles, tasted this summer. The visits to Tenuta Anfosso and Ka*Mancine were great but there were so many more producers to try out. Below are the ones I opened this summer and a few from last year.

2012 Rossese, Antonio Basso
The first super market we stopped at when arriving in Liguria wasn´t very well stocked in the wine department, but I managed to find this Rossese for 7 Euro.
The nose is light, spicy and clean with notes of lingonberries, dried herbs and a touch of white peppar. Nice enough.
The taste is medium bodied with soft tannins and a fine acidity. Notes of lingonberries, dried raspberries and some gravelly notes. A easy drinking, cleanly made wine. The Rossese quest had begun!
83p   (tasted 2013/07)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua. Terre Bianche
I had mailed Terre Bianche about a visit and got a friendly answer, but mails lost in cyberspace made this a no show. Better luck next time!
For only 5 Euros more than the wine above, you get a whole other experience. The nose is open, spicy and concentrated with notes of mulberries, red cherries, rosemary bushes and a touch of licorice. A very good 2011.
The taste is young, tight and spicy with notes of sweet lingonberries, red cherries, dried rosemary and warm tiles. Cool, refreshing tannins. A long, fine finish. This is great quality for the money.
90p   (tasted 2013/07)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Pini, Poggio Dell´Elmo
This is a different kind of Rossese. The alcohol level is 15%, the highest I have ever seen on a bottle of Rossese. And it shows. The nose is big, hot and spicy with notes of cherry jam, burned herbs, licorice, warm tiles and scorched earth. There is depth also, but the warmth is too overpowering.
The taste is big, concentrated and warm with notes of ripe cherries, mulberries, raspberry jam, licorice and warm earth. Very long and warm. A fine cherry pip note in the finish. A good concentration but in the end a bit too warm.
81p   (tasted 2013/07)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Bricco Arcagna, Terre Bianche
I loved the 2010 tasted last year, see below, so my hopes were high, even though the 2011 is a lesser vintage. But alas, the normale, above, was better. This gets some time in new wood and I think that the 2011 fruit didn´t really was up to par for that treatment.
The nose is big, upfront and sweet with notes of ripe lingonberries, raspberry licorice, mulberries and pan fried herbs. A high, concentrated nose. A touch of milk chocolate after some time in the glass.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of sweet red currants, lingonberries, warm earth and some dark fudge. The finish is long, intense and warm. The milk chocolate note also appears in the finish. A fine crafted wine but the 2010 was much better.
87p   (tasted 2013/07)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore, Foresti
A medium big, warm, spicy nose with notes of mulberries, blueberry bushes, rose petals and some peppery scents. Very good. A fine balance.
The taste is tight, fresh and light bodied with notes of lingonberries, red peppers, licorice and some earthy traits. A fine peppery note in the finish. Very nice.
87p   (tasted 2013/07)

2012 Rossese di Dolceacqua Brae, Maccario Dringenberg
A fine, multi layered, warm nose with notes of sweet blueberries, mulberries, dried herbs, hard cherry candy and forest floor. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, intense and finely polished with notes of lingonberries, lightly sugared blueberries, licorice, dusty earth and warm herbs. Cool tannins. A medium long, fresh finish. A very nice mouth feel.
89p   (tasted 2013/07)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Posaú, Maccario Dringenberg
As with the Bricco Arcagna above, this was a minor disappointment compared to the 2010 tasted last year. That said, this is a really good wine. The nose is young, tight and intense with notes of sweet lingonberries, blueberry bushes, fresh herbs, warm earth and some crushed white pepper grains. A fine, lightly perfumed note emerges with air. Very good.
The taste is big, warm and concentrated with notes of lingonberries, red cherries, warm tiles and dried herbs, A very long finish with some steady tannins. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2013/07)

2012 Rossese di Dolceacqua, Caldi
I had heard good things about this producer but never tasted anything. But I will surely be on the lookout for more bottles in the future!
The nose is young, tight and multi layered with gorgeous notes of sweet lingonberries seasoned with crushed white peppars, forest floor, rosehips, rosemary bushes and a touch of fur (in a complex way). Very deep. A fine perfumed note emerges with air. Really fine.
The taste is young, intense and refined with lots of sweet lingonberries and additional notes of licorice, rosehips, dried herbs and forest floor. A very fine acidity. The finish is long and structured. This is packing character, structure and enjoyment. One of the better Rossese´s I have had. Can´t wait for the Superiore from 2012!
93p   (tasted 2013/08)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore, Cooperative F. Riviera Dei Fiori
A warm, somewhat four squared nose with notes of lingonberries, dry licorice, scorched earth and dried flowers. It becomes more structured with air but doesn´t have the depth of the better Rossese´s.
The taste is big, warm and a tad clumsy with notes of lingonberry jam, licorice, warm earth and dried flowers. The finish is medium long with a good warmth. I think that the not so good vintage of 2011 has had something to do with this showing.
80p   (tasted 2013/08

The Rossese´s below was tasted during our stay in Liguria, the summer of 2012:

2010 Rossese di Dolceacqua Bricco Arcagna, Terre Bianche
This beauty oozes up from the glass with lovely notes of sweet lingonberries, red currants, fresh herbs, wheat cereals and lost of minerals. Very, very good. There is a hint of chocolate, showing that this has spent some time in oak. This is good!
The taste is pure, intense and demanding with notes of lingonberries, dried strawberries, forest floor and lots of sweet minerals. A long, focused, refined finish. The tannins are noticeable in the end of the finish. This could use 3-5 years in the cellar but is impossible to resist today.
92p   (tasted 2012/07)

2011 Rossese de Dolceacqua, Enovalnervia
A young, upfront, light nose with notes of lingonberries, sloe berries, dried strawberries, dried herbs and gravel. Nice and easy going.
The taste is light, fresh and uncomplicated with notes of lingonberries, nlueberry bushes, almonds and gravel. A nice, friendly Rossese for early drinking.
84p   (tasted 2012/07)

2010 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Posaú, Maccario Dringenberg
These two cru´s from Dringenberg showed great and kept for several days in the opened bottle. The Posaú´s nose is deep, hedonistic and structured with notes of lingonberries, sweet/sour cherries, fresh herbs and road dust. This goes directly to the heart, it oozes charm.
The taste is pure, intense and headstrong with notes of lingonberry bushes, red currants, licorice and lots of fresh herbs. The finish is long and elegant. Great acidity. This is a stunner!
92p   (tasted 2012/08)

2010 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Luvaira, Maccario Dringenberg
The Luvaira is, like Tenuta Anfosso´s Luvaira, a bit broader and warmer. The nose is deep, warm and pure with notes of blueberries, mulberries, licorice, old leather and a great spiciness. Very interesting and complex. Really fine.
The taste is tight, pure and warm with notes of red and black cherries, warm herbs, earth and minerals. The finish is long, intense and structured. Very earthy. Gotta love this!
91p   (tasted 2012/08)