Monday, 9 September 2013
Lunch Tasting With Erwan Faiveley
I was invited the other day by Vinovativa to a tasting lunch with Erwin Faiveley. Of course I accepted!
It was very nice to meet Erwan, who has been in charge since 2007 when he took over after his father. There have been lots of changes since then, which I commented on last year when the wine maker Bernard Hervet visited Stockholm.
Faiveleys portfolio of wines are 80% Pinot and 20% Chardonnay. The majority of grapes comes from their own land, but they buy about 15% a year. You can make out from the label if it´s bought grapes or their own - on their own it says Domaine Faiveley, the ones with bought grapes states Joseph Faiveley on the label, see pics below.
When asked, Erwan confess that the best bottle of wine he have ever had was a 1962 Chambertin from Drouhin. I shall be on the lookout! But the Faiveley´s also keep well, as this modest 1961 Mercurey is proof of.
2011 Mercurey Blanc, Domaine Faiveley
A young, fresh and crispy nose with fine notes of green herbs, lemon peel, grass and crushed rocks. A little restrained at first but opened up nicely. Salivating. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and pure with notes of white currants, yellow tomatoes, steel and gravel. A very fine acidity. This performs really well. At 19 Euro, this is a bargain.
88p (tasted 2013/09)
2011 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, Joseph Faiveley
Even with a lot of coaxing, there is hard to get some aromas out of this wine. There is rocks and some earthy scents, and some steel, but that´s pretty much it. When I got back to it one hour later som notes of white currants had emerged, but this is one tight wine!
The taste is cool, pure and focused with a fine acidity and some hints of yellow apples, white currants and crushed rocks. Needs plenty of time.
86p (tasted 2013/09)
2011 Meursault 1er Cru Blagny, Joseph Faiveley
A decadent, spicy, big nose with gorgeous notes of ripe red apples, lemon cream, dried summer flowers and cap gun smoke. Very deep and fine. A hint of expensive soap, in a good way. This I like!
The taste is tight, intense and young, with notes of sweet/sour lemons, dried apricots, lemon cream and sweet minerals. A long, satisfying finish. Very good acidity. This is really fine and I´m sure it will get even better with 4-6 years in the cellar.
92p (tasted 2013/09)
2010 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Roy, Domaine Faiveley
The first of the reds has a fine young, earthy nose with notes of red currants, dried blood, dried blueberries and some fresh herbs. A bit barnyardy, in a good way.
The taste is young, tight and medium bodied with notes of red currants, dried raspberries, earth and iron. A good acidity. Medium long finish. This should benefit from a couple of years in the cellar.
87p (tasted 2013/09)
2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Beaux Bruns, Joseph Faiveley
A wonderful, deep and sexy nose with notes of wild raspberries, forest floor, smoke, herbs and a touch of licorice. Complex and yummy.
The taste is more restrained than the hedonistic nose but there is lots of interest here also. Notes of red currants, raspberries, smoke and forest floor. The tannins are silky and fine. Drinking great but should get even better with 3-5 years cellaring.
90p (tasted 2013/09)
2011 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers, Domaine Faiveley
A tighter, more rustic nose than the Chambolle-Musigny, but as nice in its way. Fine notes of lingonberries, blueberries, forest floor and a gorgeous blood & iron note. Some rosehips after a while. Very young.
The taste is young, tight and concentrated with notes of lingonberries, rosehips, dried herbs and the same earthy note as on the nose. The tannins show themselves in the medium long finish. This needs at least 6+ years in the cellar. Great stuff!
90p (tasted 2013/09)
2011 Corton Clos des Cortons, Domaine Faiveley
What a nose! Deep, powerful and full of ripe raspberries, Christmas spices, cigarette ashes, a touch of dark chocolate and a lovely perfumed note. Very pure, very deep and very promising. Just beautiful.
The taste is young, tight and focused with gorgeous Pinot fruit and a stunning length, structure and refinement. Lovely notes of chocolate covered raspberries, blueberries, Cohiba cigar and forest floor. A wonderful texture. Still young of course, this behaves beautifully. But wait at least 8 years!
95p (tasted 2013/09)
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Faiveley, tillsammans med Bouchard och Jadot gör sensationellt bra viner sedan några år. Så bra att de kan räknas bland de 10 bästa överhuvudtaget i Bourgogne. Synd då att det är så extremt svårt, i stort sett omöjligt, att få tag Bouchards bästa viner i Sverige. Faiveley bästa viner är nästan lika svåra att få tag i. Varför finns det inga Cotes de Nuits Grand Cru eller vita Grand Cruer från Faiveley och Bouchard att köpa? Jag, personligen, hade köpt en hel del om det fanns! Nu måste jag tyvärr köpa dem i Frankrike, England och Danmark.ReplyDelete
Sverige är kanske för litet för att få allokeringar av Grand Cru vinerna? Om det hade varit BiB så hade det nog varit en annan sak...Delete
Men, med hela världen bara några knapptryckningar bort, så går det ju att köpa alla viner man vill ha. Och letar du efter Grand Cru från de producenterna, och många, många fler, kolla här - http://exceptionvins.fr/new/menu.htm