Saturday 16 February 2019

Alain Brumont At Tegelbacken

I was invited by VinUnic to meet Alain & Laurence Brumont and taste some wines from their excellent estate, alongside lip smacking good food at Tegelbacken.

Last time I had the honour was in 2013 when we tasted two great verticals from Brumont:
Part I - Eleven vintages of Cuvée Prestige
Part II - Nine vintages of La Tyre

The Whites:
2017 La Gascogne 
A flowery, grassy nose with notes of ripening peach, elderberries and chive. Light and nice.
The taste is delicate and easy going with notes of grass, white pepper and a hint of cap gun smoke. Short. Very good. Gros Manseng and Sauvignon Blanc.
86p   (tasted 2019/02)

2015 Château Bouscassé Les Jardins Philosophiques
This Petit Courbu and Petit Manseng blend shows a cool, earthy nose with notes of dried flowers, apricots and gravel. Low keyed.
The taste is structured and fine with a very good acidity and notes of minerals, dried apricots and lemon. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2019/02)

2012 Château Montus Blanc
Oooh boy, this is good! If this had been poured blind I would have bet some serious money on a maturing Puligny-Montrachet. The nose is rich and creamy with notes of melted butter, lemon fudge, yellow flowers and spices. Lovely.
The taste is concentrated and fine with hints of maturity and notes of autumn yellow apples, grilled lemons, spices and sandelwood. Long and lingering. This is a real bargain at 30 Euro.
93p   (tasted 2019/02)

The Reds:
2014 Torus
Light, fresh and fruity on the nose with notes of ripening blueberries and fresh herbs.
The taste is uncomplicated but nice with a mix of lingon- and blueberries and gravel. A good acidity. Very good.
86p   (tasted 2019/02)

2015 Le Pinot Noir d´Alain Brumont
A refined, airy nose with notes of undergrowth, dried raspberries, Asian spices and leather. Very, very good.
The taste is cool and elegant with notes of raspberries, spices and minerals. For drinking now and the coming 10 years.
89p   (tasted 2019/02)

2014 Château Bouscassé
50% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc. The nose is cool and earthy with notes of damsons, dried black currants and bakelite.
The taste is tight and dry with notes of warm gravel, blueberries and dried herbs. A long, dry finish. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2019/02)

2015 Château Bouscassé Vieilles Vignes
The 15 VV sports a deep, refined nose with lots of Bx traits, stables, tobacco, black currants and autumn leaves. Very, very good.
The taste is structured and fine with sandy tannins an notes of black currants, iron and tobacco. Very fine. 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2019/02)

2015 Château Montus
An earthy, stony nose with notes of blueberries, damsons, dry chocolate and bakelite. Not as open and direct as the VV above.
The taste is young and tight with notes of blueberries, iron, forest floor and clay. Long and taut. 6+ years.
89p   (tasted 2019/02)

2015 Château Montus Cuvée Prestige
A beauty! The nose is young and tight but oooh so perfumed, rich and energetic, with notes of ripe black currants, dried blueberries, warm sand, cool tobacco leaves and forest floor. Lovely.
The taste is concentrated and focused with notes of black currants, iron, bakelite, tobacco and clay. Very long, intense and balanced. 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2019/02

2000 Château Montus Cuvée Prestige
This 19 year old wine seems, yes, a bit old. If I didn´t know the provenance of this bottle I would say it has been stored a bit too warm. It is a good wine but not as great as it was in the 2013 tasting were I noted that it should be cellared for 7+ years. It feels more like this had been cellared for 17 years.
The nose is big, ripe and outgoing with notes of wet earth, dog fur, cooked red and black currants and dades. Smells like a Bx from the 60´s which have been stored warm.
The taste is big, round and dry with dried up sweetness and notes of damp earth, cooked black fruit, and pipe tobacco. A tad dry at the end.
86p   (tasted 2019/02)

2010 La Tyre
This is a stunner with a very deep, refined, inky nose with notes of ripe blueberries, violets, dried dark flowers, chrushed rocks and veal meat. Broad shouldered yet very refined. Has some Syrah like aromas. Gorgeous.
The taste is tight and concentrated with layer upon layer of really ripe black fruits - currants, blueberries, blackberries - alongside notes of expensive tobacco, damp earth, violets and meat. Very, very long. Impressive stuff that will need 6 more years in the cellar.
96p   (tasted 2019/02)

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