Thursday 12 December 2019

A Château Lanessan Dinner 1961 - 2016

This ancient estate have only have two owners since 1310! When the 1855 classification was to be determined, the then owner Louis Delbos thought it was a "bureaucratic nonsense" and didn´t submit any bottles... A bad decision in hindsight. For example, Robert Parker thinks Lanessan would merit a 5th cru rating, even comparing it to Lynch-Bages in style. But the price nowadays is 10 times lower than Lynch-Bages. A really good wine that ages well, as the bottles below are witness of.

1964 Westhofener Morstein, Weingut Richard Fehlinger
A pure, mature nose with notes of wet asphalt, rubber, dried apricots, yellow apples and furniture polish. A fine mineral note. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and ry woth notes of dried apricots, smoke, dried grass and chrushed rocks. A very fine acidity. Mature but not overly so, bottles like this will keep for 10+ years.
89p   (tasted 2019/12)

1992 Chablis Grand Cru Preuses, La Chablisienne
A deep, glycerin loaded nose with notes of candle grease, almond paste, smoke, mint and grilled lemons. Very fine. Some maturity.
The taste is velvety and aristocratic with a mouth cleansing acidity and notes of almonds, lemon cream, oyster shells and mosquito repellent. Very complex and fine. Will go on for many years. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2019/12)

Shellfish gratin
2012 Chablis Grand Cru Presuses, La Chablisienne
20 years younger and almost as good as the 92. A deep, tight nose with notes of ripe lemons, hay, matchbox and chalk. Very fine.
The taste is spicy and intense with notes of tangerines, grilled lemons, yellow flowers and butter cookies. A long, distinct finish with a searing acidity. 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/12)

Flight 1
1961 Château Lanessan
From one of the greatest Bordeaux vintages ever, this 58 year old Lanessan display a deep, beautiful, old viney nose with notes of ripe black currants, cedar, autumn leaves and a touch of mint. Dark perfume. Really fine.
The taste is seamless and refined with notes of cranberries, dried black currants, earth and tobacco. A long, velvety finish. On top of its game. A treat to drink.
94p   (tasted 2019/12)

Quail terrine with onion and balsamic sauce
1970 Château Lanessan
A mature, meaty nose with notes of dried up black currant jam, sun warm earth, old chocolate and iron. Very good in a forward, rustic way.
The taste is juicy and upfront with spicy black currant fruit, iron and scorched earth. Long and warm. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2019/12)

1975 Château Lanessan
This was a bit controversial. Some thought it was mildly corked. I didn´t. Corked wines get worse and worse with time. This just showed an old, foursquare nose with notes of tomatoe purée, dry leather and some dog fur.
The taste is dry and seedy with notes of iron, drý red berries and those dry 75 tannins. Not in top shape but not corked.
78p   (tasted 2019/12)

Flight 2
1978 Château Lanessan
78 is one of my favourite vintages and Lanessan doesn´t disappoint. The nose is deep, warm and spicy with notes of ripe black currants, fine leather, iron and a hint of dried strawberries. Very, very good.
The taste is long and lingering with notes of dried black currants, tobacco, pencil shavings and iron. A very fine structure. Fully mature but there is no hurry to drink any remaining bottles.
92p   (tasted 2019/12)

Consomme with lamb sausage and mushrooms
1981 Château Lanessan
A fine, delicate nose with notes of forest floor, red currants, dry tobacco and sun warm rocks. Low keyed, fully mature and very nice.
The taste is fine and tight with notes of red and black currants, sand and dry tobacco. Medium long. Very good but lacks some stuffing in the middle.
87p   (tasted 2019/12)

1983 Château Lanessan
A surprisingly fine 83 with a deep, sweet nose with notes of ripe black currants, dried strawberries, undergrowth and pipe tobacco. Rich and very fine.
The taste is warm and spicy with notes of dried up black currant jam, tobacco, iron and scorched earth. Very long. Mature but bottles like this will go on for 8+ years.
92p   (tasted 2019/12)

Flight 3
1990 Château Lanessan
Shared WOTN with the 61. A very deep, lovely nose with notes of ripe black currants, fine tobacco, furniture polish and forest floor. A very fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is tight and energetic with notes of plums, black currants, graphite and iron. Very long and refined. I think it has reached its peak but will go on for 10+ years.
94p   (tasted 2019/12)

1996 Château Lanessan
A fine, lightly smoky nose with notes of graphite, black currants, fir wood and tobacco. Firm and structured.
The taste is medium bodied and somewhat mature with inky black fruit, tight tannins and a long, firm finish. Needs time to open up. 6+ years.
89p   (tasted 2019/12)

1998 Château Lanessan
The 98 display a deep, fine nose with notes of red and black currants, shoe polish, forest floor and pipe tobacco. Refined. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and concentrated with silky tannins and a lovely black currant fruit alongside notes of tobacco, coffee and expensive leather. Really fine. 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2019/12)

Flight 4
2005 Château Lanessan
A high, pure, still young nose with notes of plums, cool black currants, cold coffee and graphite. Very deep, very fine.
The taste is structured and balanced with silky tannins, ripe red and black currants and a long, long seedy finish. This is a future stunner, just needs 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/12)

2008 Château Lanessan
A large scaled nose with notes of smoke, dry licorice, earth and some minty aromas. Black fruit. Deep. Very, very good.
The taste is sandy and dry with notes of licorice, black currants, tobacco and earth. Long and seedy. A tad compact. 5+ years.
89p   (tasted 2019/12)

2016 Château Lanessan
A light, upfront, juicy nose with notes of red currants, iodine, earth and dry tobacco. A tad one dimensional.
The taste is light and earthy with fresh red currants and low keyed tannins. Medium long. Actually got better and fattened up when tasted the day after. 4+ years.
87p   (tasted 2019/12)

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