Sunday 2 July 2023

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Damilano

This very large producer, with 58 ha of land, has a long history. Giuseppe Borgogno started the winery in 1890. Now they put out +300.000 bottles per year.
I was keen to taste if quantity and quality could go hand in hand. Anita at the Damilano cantina took great care of me on my visit.

2017 Millesimato
A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. A good, buttery nose with notes of dark biscuits, nuts and yellow fruits. 
The taste is medium bodied with fine bubbles and notes of biscuits, ripe lemons and grass. A good acidity. 
86p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo Del Commune di Serralunga
The first vintage of this commune wine from Serralunga. The nose is open and nice but lacks a bit of focus. Notes of dried strawberries and dusty earth.
The taste is dry and nicely structured but the fruit is hidden and doesn´t show itself. A good finish though. 
85p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo Cannubi
This is good. The nose is deep and tight with a cool cherry fruit and notes of violets, licorice and warm earth. Very, very good.
The taste is young and broad with salivating tannins and notes of paint, ripe cherries and earth. Very long. 8+ years. Damilano rents 10 ha (!) in Cannubi on a long lease. 
92p   (tasted 2023/07)

2018 Barolo Liste
A high, interesting nose with notes of iodine, candied cherries, and a nicely perfumed scent, but doesn´t have a real lift.
The taste is tight and nicely structured with cool tannins but the fruit is a bit subdued. Maybe time will help. 8+ years.
88p   (tasted 2023/07)

2014 Barolo Cannubi
Talking about different vintages, Anita was ever so kind to open a 14 Cannubi. The nose is earthy and mature with notes of cold coffee, dried cherries, licorice and asphalt. Lots of undergrowth. Very, very good.
The taste is more restrained and shy with notes of dried cherries, forest floor, dried flowers and coffee powder. For drinking now and the coming 4+ years.
88p   (tasted 2023/07)

2018 Barolo Lecinquevigne
A tight, structured nose with notes raspberry candy, asphalt, smoke and herbs. A tad foursquare.
The taste is medium bodied with nice enough red fruit but the foursquare note is evident on the palate as well.
84p   (tasted 2023/07)

What to say about this large scaled producer and its Baroli (although I didn´t taste the whole range)?
All wines are cleanly made, there are no faults, they may even be too pure in a sense, because they lack a kind of personality. They feel, even though the quality is there, "made".

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