Tasting With Xavier Vignon

I got invited by Vinovativa to a tasting dinner with Xavier Vignon, an oenologist based in Rhone. He works with almost 200 domains besides managing a large laboratory.
Xavier was enthusiastic and very charming to talk with over dinner. A great evening - thanks!
We tasted the following.

2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Xavier
This Roussanne, Clairette and Grenache Blanc blend offers up a young, fruity, spicy nose with notes of white currants, summer flowers, banana peel and eraser. Very floral. Upfront and fine. Very good.
The taste is cool, fresh and juicy with notes of white peaches, summer flowers and a hint of ginger. A good acidity. The finish trails of a bit. But this is drinking fine in the short term.
86p   (tasted 2014/05)

2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée Anonyme Blanc, Xavier
This is another creature altogether. Deeper, tighter and with a gorgeous yellow fruit. Fine notes of white currants, William pears, grilled lemons and a lovely salty note. Lots of minerals. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and intense with notes of white currants, sweet/sour lemons, a hint of liquorice and ginger. The finish is very long and complex. A gorgeous mouth feel. This I would love to drink again. Apparently the first vintage of this cuvee.
92p   (tasted 2014/05)

2011 Grenache Vieilles Vignes, Xavier
A friendly, easy going nose with notes of dark berries, spice, liquorice and some burned rubber. Not that deep but good in its forward way.
The taste is pure, gentle and fine with notes of blueberries, liquorice, earth and black pepper. A good warmth in the end of the rather short finish. This is ok for what it is and cost (9 Euro).
82p   (tasted 2014/05)

2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Xavier
A young, mute and a bit foursquare nose with notes of dried raspberries, garrigue, resin and dried flowers. Dried up raspberry jam after a while. Opens up a bit in the glass.
The taste is as mute as the nose with some notes of raspberries, blueberries, dry chocolate and resin. A medium long, warm finish. Good but in a closed stage?
85p   (tasted 2014/05)

2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Xavier
The younger version is much livelier and fresh with notes of sweet raspberries, liquorice, leather, rosemary and warm flowers. A fine meaty aroma in this one. Deep. This is good.
The taste is big, tight and intense with notes of raspberries, root vegetables, meat, resin and forest floor. A long, warm, juicy finish. Very, very good. Still very young of course. Really fine.
91p   (tasted 2014/05)

NV Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Réserve, Xavier
This beauty is a blend of three vintages - 2007 (43%), 2009 (21%) and 2010 (36%). The nose is profound with a stunning depth and concentration. Gorgeous notes of raspberry truffles, ripe blueberries, garrigue, expensive leather, veal stock and dried flowers. A old vine complexity. Very, very deep and refined. Great!
The taste is young, tight and focused with an array of red and black fruits alongside some notes of liquorice, resin, rosemary and leather. The finish goes on for over a minute. Very balanced. This is a very fine wine. Would love to have a couple of bottles to follow over the next 10-15 years.
94p   (tasted 2014/05)

Drinking Tonight - 2012 Côte de Brouilly, Château Thivin

With a fresh chicken salad this young Gamay went down well.
Info about the estate here.

2012 Côte de Brouilly Les Sept Vignes, Château Thivin
The nose is young and seedy and at first a bit shy. It needed some time in a Riedel Extreme Pinot Noir glass to show off notes of red cherries, plums, some blueberries, forest floor and a touch of dog fur. Interesting and lively. Very good.
The taste is young, tight and cool with notes of lingonberries, red cherries, cherry pips, minerals and a touch of smoke. A medium long finish with a high acidity. Still very young, this need 3-5 years in the cellar.
85p   (tasted 2014/05)

Another Notch In The Belt - 2010 Romo, Domaine des Huards

Jancis Robinson´s (et al) tome from 2012 - Wine Grapes, A complete guide to 1.368 vine varities, including their origin and flavours - is a fascinating read. So many grapes, so little time!

And this was to be a premiere for me, to my recollection I have never before tasted a wine made from Romorantin. It is grown exclusively in the appellation of Cour-Cheverny in Val de Loire on a grand total of 73 ha.
Romorantin is, according to Robinson et al, a cross between Pinot and Gouais Blanc, and not Pinot Noir but Pinot Teinturier. It is believed that Romorantin came to Loire from Burgundy for more than 500 years ago.
Info about the producer here.

2010 Romo, Domaine des Huards
An interesting, outspoken nose with notes of white currants, dried honey, chives, oyster shells and some smoky aromas. Complex and fine. A touch of apple cider vinegar. Very good. Given this blind I would have been hard pressed to make a guess.
The taste is young, fresh and focused with notes of tangerines, grass, chives, slate and candied lemon peels. A very fresh acidity. Medium long and fine. This is really good, fine on its own and perfect with a piece of grilled salmon. Would love to taste their old vine Romorantin.
89p   (tasted 2014/05)

Six Bottles Of 1964 Pomerol

Earlier this week it was my turn hosting our monthly tasting in our tasting group. I selected to open my entire collection of 1964 Pomerol´s. It is a tough job... :-)

But first I opened this as a starter while waiting for all to arrive.
1964 Klosterdottor Spätlese Naturrein, A. Weigand
This Rheinhessen oldie has a soft, mature nose with notes of old red apples, saffron, stale nuts, dried apricots and some band aid. A fairly interesting nose.
The taste is fresher than the nose with notes of ripe yellow apples, grass, saffron and some plastic. A good acidity. Semi dry still. Good.
82p   (tasted 2014/05)

The Pomerol´s were decanted 30 minutes before the first pour, but in hindsight I should have decanted them earlier - they kept on growing during the evening. Had in been 64 Barolo, I would have decanted them at least two hours before, but my experience with old Bordeaux is that they sometimes, unlike Barolo or Burgundy for that matter, can wither away quickly in a decanter.

1964 Château Beauregard
This one definitely grew on us all night long. It opened shy and rather foursquare but blossomed into a lovely mature Pomerol. Later, the glass was full of aromas of dark plums, sweet tobacco, fresh stables, undergrowth and cloves. Very, very fine.
The taste is round, ripe with a fine backbone and notes of black cherries, plums, tobacco and forest floor. Finely tuned tannins. A very good balance in this wine. Fully mature but will surely keep on this level for another 5+ years.
91p   (tasted 2014/05)

1964 Château La Conseillante
Too bad. The bottle looked great and the level was fine, but alas, this bottle wasn´t up to scratch. Drinkable - yes. Even nice - yes. But not on the level of which La Conseillante can perform.
The nose is old, soft and sweet with notes of dried cherries, rosehips, coffee powder and Christmas spices. Loose on the edges. Good though.
The taste is big, mature and tender with notes of dried red fruit, molasses, dry tobacco and undergrowth. The finish is round and warm but trails of fairly quickly. I guess that this bottle, although you couldn´t tell by its appearance, have been manhandled somewhere along the line.
84p   (tasted 2014/05)

1964 Château L´Evangile
This was my favourite in the line up. A stunning bottle from start to finish. The nose is intense, tight and perfectly mature with notes of black cherries, ripe plums, bay leaves, iron, tobacco, stables and cloves. Just lovely. A stunningly perfumed note that lingers on.
The taste is big, impressive and focused with notes of black cherries, bay leaves, liquorice, pipe tobacco and forest floor. A old vine feeling in the mouth. Long and refined. I don´t think it will get any better but there is no hurry to drink this nectar.
95p   (tasted 2014/05)

1964 Clos René
A cool, mature and soft nose with notes of cold coffee, plums, fresh stables, Christmas spices and moist undergrowth. This one also evolved in the decanter and glass, but is a bit withdrawn in character. Very good.
The taste is mature and taut with notes of black cherries, tobacco, forest floor and candle grease. A long, warm finish, Very good but a bit anonymous.
87p   (tasted 2014/05)

1964 Château Rouget
A big, mature, spicy nose with gorgeous black fruit - cherries, currants and plums, alongside notes of stables, pipe tobacco, cloves and red Christmas sealing wax. Very deep. This has an old vine feel about it. Some roasted coffee notes. Lovely.
The taste is big, warm and generous with notes of black cherries, sweet tobacco, spices and some animal notes. There is still some steady tannins here. Very long and fine. This is really fine. Feels like the youngest in the line up. Great wine. The one that won the vote for best wine, the others tasted double blind.
93p   (tasted 2014/05)

1964 Château de Sales
The largest estate in Pomerol with its 117 ha and therefore the Pomerol that one usually see often on merchants list, even in older vintages. The 1964 version opens with a big, generous, warm nose full of ripe plums, sugared coffee, Christmas spices, sandalwood and bay leaves. Maybe not that deep or complex but very yummy.
The taste is big, steady and vigorous with notes of black cherries, black currants, tobacco, stables and autumn leaves. A good length with a nice warmth. A very fine mouthful of a mature Bordeaux. Drinking great and it is no hurry to drink up any remaining bottles.
88p   (tasted 2014/05)

To finish the evening of - some cantuccinis and a bottle of
1964 Vin Santo di Montalcino, Fattoria dei Barbi
A deep, mature, interesting nose with notes of dried apricots, detergent, sweet rotting flowers, iodine, dry chocolate and candied orange peel - there is a lot going on here! Very likeable. Very, very good.
The taste is big, tight and impressive with masses of dried fruits and notes of white pepper, iodine, rubber carpet and dried flowers. Very long, intense and yummy. This I like!
89p   (tasted 2014/05)

Some Miscellaneous Reds

These bottles have been drunk with dinner in the last couple of weeks - a glass (or three...) of wine a day keeps the doctor away!

2012 Paul, Domaine Saladin
Not all wine makers can trace their lineage back to 1422! But sisters Elisabeth and Marie-Laurence can do just that. They are the 21 generation of the family and they took over in 2003. They have worked with Randall Grahm and Marcel Guigal.
This wine is made out of 90% Grenache and 10% Clairette and sports a upfront, juicy nose with notes of violet pastilles, blueberries, sage, some meat and lots of fresh herbs. A fresh, open nose. Very good.
The taste is medium bodied, young and slightly peppery with notes of lingonberries, raspberries, rosemary, earth and a touch of resin. Very gulpable. Maybe a tad slender in the middle taste. But very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2014/04)

2005 Santenay 1er Cru Passe-Temps, Château de la Charriére
A mature, nice, a bit fleeting nose with notes of dried raspberries, red beet juice, dried herbs and some chocolate mousse aromas. A fine warmth.
The taste is mature, round and nice with notes of raspberries, rosehips, forest floor and dried herbs. A pretty taut structure at the end. Very good with the food but a little to monolithic on its own.
84p   (tasted 2014/04)

2008 Pinot Noir***, Weingut Holger Koch
The 2009 version of this three star Pinot was really good, but the one year older version is even better! This wine is deeper, broader and meatier than the 2009 with lovely notes of crushed strawberries, licorice, forest floor and butter fried herbs. Deep and refined. Some beet root aromas after a while.
The taste is big, spicy and warm with notes of raspberry truffles, rosehips, pomegranate and moist earth with some mushrooms. A very good, uplifting acidity. Long and fine. This is good!
92p   (tasted 2014/04)

2011 Cuvée Nadal, Domaine de Fondreche
For this beauty I just refer to my note from October 2013 - this is a stunning wine for the price asked. And I guess that the 2012 will be even better. I´m on my second case now...:-)
92p   (tasted 2014/04)

Tonight, Tonight...

This was tonight´s harvest.....just the front row though......and the best of the bunch was L´Evangile. Notes to follow.

 

Just Bought

Back home from a weekend in Amsterdam, and unpack the bottles bought is the most fun part. Here are some of them...:-)

Two more bottles of Château Soutard - the 1955 arrived only a couple of weeks ago.

A Amsterdam bottling of 1945 Château Belair - another bottle from the greatest Bordeaux vintage ever!
This could make up an interesting tasting...:
http://barolista.blogspot.se/2013/03/just-bought_20.html
http://barolista.blogspot.se/2012/03/just-bought.html

Have I Died And Gone To Heaven?

2010 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Fattoria del Cerro

A relatively cheap wine from a super market shelf for the use to have a glass or two at the hotel room before going out for dinner - can it be good?

It has a portrait of a man with a cheeky mustache and a big collar, and it obviously got a 3 bicchiere from Gambero Rosso (like all other wines...), so it must be good?

Well then?

2010 Vino Nobile di Montelpulciano, Fattoria del Cerro

Actually, it is really good, lots of fresh cherry pips on the nose alongside notes of rosemary, gravel and some licorice. Not deep, not complex, but pure and fine.

The taste is young, perky and gulpable with the same cherry pips as on the nose with notes of herbs, licorice, almonds and a touch of milk chocolate. No problem to finish the bottle. Well worth the 10 Euro it cost.

86p   (tasted 2014/05)

Now, what's for dinner?

A Great Grüner!

I drink Grüner Veltliner to seldom. And when I have done, I have to rarely come across really great ones. But this bottle was just that.

And it is the debut vintage. That is promising for the future.
The wine maker is Cristoph Hoch. He comes from a wine maker family that originates from the region and can trace their history back to 1640.
The vines in Hollenburg in Kremstal is twenty years old and Christoph is in the process of shifting the vinryard into a organic, biodynamic production.
And what about the wine then?

2012 Hollenburger Grüner Veltliner, Christoph Hoch

The nose is young, fresh and lively with notes of gooseberries, an array of summer flowers, ginger, grass and  crushed white peppers. Refined. It has depth and intensity too. Really fine.

The taste is young, cool, elegant and almost creamy with notes of lime, white currants, summer flowers, grass, a touch of wild strawberries and white pepper. Fresh as a daisy. Very refreshing. Long and classy. This is a great Grüner.

91p   (tasted 2014/04)

 

Two More 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The view from working at the the grill with a glass of Vieux Télégraphe

I keep on diminishing my stash of 1998 Châteauneuf´s. These time two Vieux wines - Vieux Lazaret and Vieux Télégraphe.
According to you-know-who it would be a slam dunk victory for the Télégraphe - and for ones he was right...

1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine Vieux Lazaret
This should have been drunk years ago. The nose is big, cooked and kind of flabby with notes of Cherry Heering, resin, fried herbs, raspberry jam and sweet liquorice. It doesn´t keep things together, the nose is all over the place. Too warm.
The taste is like drinking Cheery Heering...with some added notes of hot herbs, liquorice and undergrowth. The alcohol is predominant in the finish. Works ok with a big slice of grilled beef but no fun on its own. Again, should have be drunk years ago.
77p   (tasted 2014/04)

1998 Châtauneuf-du-Pape La Crau, Domaine Vieux Télégraphe
What a difference! A deep, focused, broad nose with notes of ripe black cherries, raspberry truffles, garrigue, salmiak, leather, fresh rosemary and some deeply scented veal stock. Really deep and complex. Gorgeous.
The taste is big, steady and mouth filling with beautiful ripe, black fruit, a bold structure and there are still some firm tannins here. A long, intense finish with notes of raspberry truffles, rosemary, autumn leaves and leather. Very, very fine. This is entering maturity but there is no need to hurry up and drink any remaining bottles.
93p   (tasted 2014/04

Earlier tasting notes of 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape here:
http://barolista.blogspot.se/2013/09/two-1998-chateauneuf-du-pape.html
http://barolista.blogspot.se/2013/12/two-1998-chateauneuf-du-pape.html
http://barolista.blogspot.se/2014/02/two-times-1998-chateauneuf-du-pape.html

A Bottle Of Riesling & A Piece Of Cod

Sometimes, well almost always when I think about it, life is good. And in this way, simple. A nice piece of cod and a bottle of Riesling. What else do you need?

2009 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Trocken, Jakob Schneider
An open, spicy, fresh nose with notes of sweet/sour lemon, tangerines, a lot of iron, some dried tropical fruits, pickled ginger and minerals. A little nutty after a while in the glass. Medium deep. Very good.
The taste is younger than the nose with a tight acidity paired with notes of lemon peel, seafood shells, iron, dried pears and a touch of banana peel. Long and fine. With the cod it performed great and the combination was, just then and there, perfect.
88p   (tasted 2014/04)

 

 

A Beautifully Aged Burgundy - 1964 Mazis-Chambertin, Remoissenet

Another Easter bottle that performed in an excellent manner. I could drink more mature wines from Remoissenet - a 1993 Montrachet was equally great a while back.

1964 Mazis-Chambertin, Remoissenet
What a nose! A deep, refined, old vine nose with gorgeous notes of dried strawberries, veal stock, pipe tobacco, rosehip marmalade, a fresh forest floor with some mushrooms and fried root vegetables. Deep and profound. This has matured in a stately manner. Grace and charm. Really fine.
The taste is like drinking velvet with just the right amount of acidity and backbone. The fruit is a bit darker in the taste, with black cherries, wild strawberries and ripe raspberries. The finish lingers on for minutes with notes of raspberry truffles, sugared coffee and forest floor. Ample and fine. Old vine style, it resembles some fine bottles of Burgundies from the 40`s that I have tasted. Grand vin!
96p   (tasted 2014/04)

2008 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts, Domaine Bachelet-Monnot

Opened this beauty over the Easter holiday. While not as great as their 2009 Batard-Montrachet, it was a sheer joy to drink.

2008 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts, Domaine Bachelet-Monnot
A lovely smoky Puligny scent flows out from the glass alongside notes of sweet grapefruit, lemon cream, cap gun smoke, buttercup flowers and luxury soap. Very fine. Deep and hedonistic, albeit very young still.
The taste is young, creamy and focused with notes of lemon cream, cold butter, matchbox, summer flowers and butter biscuits. The finish is long and with a fine warmth. Good acidity. This is drinking great now but I would guess it should improve over the coming 4-6 years.
92p   (tasted 2014/04)

Just Popped & Poured - 1964 Haut-Bailly & 1964 Haut-Marbuzet

Just opened both bottles - right out of the gate the Haut- Bailly smells wonderful and have a soft, lovely mouthfeel. The Haut-Marbuzet feels more withdrawn and sturdier, both on the nose and the palate. Will update through the evening.

Now I have to tend to the lamb...

Update: the Haut-Bailly evolves into a stunning mature Bordeaux with all the signs of a fine Graves - warm tiles, gravel and soft black currants - very, very fine. The Haut-Marbuzet on the other hand is a rustic creature, too much so, but with the succulant lamb it show off in a excellent way. 

Now I will finish the bottles of - will be back with a final report...

Update no 2:
1964 Château Haut-Bailly
The nose is met by a wonderful, mature scent when you put your nose in the glass. Classy aromas of dried black currants, warm tiles, chewing tobacco, autumn leaves and a floral scent that is glorious. Very, very fine. Perfectly mature. Even some dried strawberries after a while.
The taste is cool, round and mature with notes of red and black currants, tiles, gravel, cedar, autumn leaves and dry dark fudge. The finish is long, balanced soft but oooh so expressive.
I loved this wine, from the first sip until the deposit, which I of course ate - they tasted sublime.
92p   (tasted 2014/04)

1964 Château Haut-Marbuzet
This on the other hand is more structured and heavy handed. The nose is big, focused and a bit younger than the Haut-Bailly, with notes of black currants, black cherries, dried orange peel, moist undergrowth and leather. A bit four squared. Dark.
The taste is big, mature and tight with notes of black currants, smoke, gravel, dry chocolate and some barnyard notes. There is still some tannins in the medium long finish. A little grumpy, and I think it will always be.
85p   (tasted 2014/04)

2009 Frauenberg G.G., Battenfeld-Spanier - Day Two

I opened this yesterday and didn't think much of it - rather ungainly, hard and frankly, no fun. One glass and then, back in the fridge.

Day two - the duckling have become a swan!

2009 Nieder-Flörheim Frauenberg G.G., Battenfeld-Spanier

Today a refined, harmonious, pure nose flows out of the glass, with notes of grilled lemons, grapefruit juice, a touch of mixed tropical fruits, lemon pepper, chalk and a touch of linoleum and mint. Deep, somewhat mature and complex. Very, very fine.

The taste is younger than the nose leads you to believe, with a searing acidity and notes of sweet/sour lemons, pineapple, lots of chalk and the same linoleum feeling as on the nose. Given this blind, I could have guessed a Chenin Blanc. The finish goes on for a minute, ending high and dry. This is really fine.

92p   (tasted 2014/04)

Just Bought

A bottle of 1955 Château Soutard has arrived. I am planning another vertical tasting of this long lasting St Emilion.

The one I did two years ago showed a St Emilion of great quality that can age and evolve for a long time. And the older vintages can still be bougt for a reasonable price. Thankfully!

 

My Easter Egg...

Easter has come - I´m off work for five days, my cold has disappeared, the fridge is full of food and I just need to get my liquid Easter egg together.

After a lot of hard work I have chosen these bottles to comfort me and the family over the weekend, if they will suffice, which they wont... :-)

The Bordeaux bottles are 1964 Haut-Bailly and 1964 Haut-Marbuzet.

Happy Easter!

My Easter Egg Of 2012
My Easter Egg Of 2013