2006 Savennières Clos Du Papillon, Domaine Des Baumard

I sourced some nice pike perch fillets today and made this dish, with grilled asparagus, carrots and shiitake mushrooms, an aspagarus hollandaise and deep fried salmon balls.

I fancied a leaner, intense kind of wine with a high acidity and found this bottle.

2006 Savennières Clos du Papillon, Domaine des Baumard
A cristallin, deep, intense nose with notes of green tea, wet concrete, candied lemon peels, white currants and hay. Complex and fine.
The taste dances over the tongue with a fine mix of lemons, rubber, green tea and minerals. Long and fine. A fine, piercing acidity. Almost a flor-like feeling in the finish. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2018/02)

Two 2001 Burgundies

A Wednesday, a nice chicken dish with root vegetables and a tarragon and mustard sauce - what to open - why not a Burgundy or two...

2001 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes, Roux Père & Fils
A cool, somewhat mature nose with notes of cranberries, lingonberries, Christmas spices, smoke and some underlying (not from the cleanest one) stable scents. Medium deep and good.
The taste is slender and dry with notes of lingonberries, dried strawberries, herbs and root vegetables. A good acidity but some drying out tannins in the end. For drinking sooner than later. Good with food.
86p   (tasted 2018/02)

2001 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves, Georges Vasseur
A deep, spicy and barely mature nose with notes of red tea, raspberry licorice, undergrowth and dark flowers. Ripe and fine. Very, very good. A lovely sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is finely tuned and spicy with notes of dried flowers, sun warm rocks, raspberries and forest floor. A very long, velvety and rich finish. A fine mouthfeel. This is really good and will go on being a great drink for another 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/02)

1997 - Mostly Piedmont Bottles But Also Some Ringers

1997 - scorned by and large by the Europeans (who favoured the 96 vintage), loved by the sweet tooth Americans...a preconception, I know but what do you say about these reviews (on Piedmont):

"A relatively small crop of overripe, low-acid, high alcohol, unctously textured Nebbiolos and Barberas that are off the charts in terms of the hedonistic pleasure they deliver (Robert Parker, Parker´s Wine Buyer´s Guide, 2002)

or

"Superripe, opulent, flamboyant wines. A benchmark vintage" (the vintage scoring 99p...) (The Wine Spectator, James Suckling, Dec 31 2000 - Jan 15 2001)

How have these hedonistic pleasure bombs evolved over the last 20 years?
12 bottles should provide a glimpse of the state of evolution of the 97´s. The Langhe wines didn´t show any of the heat that supposedly is the trademark of the vintage. Or being low-acidic.
That goes to show how reliable those kind of immediate verdicts on any given vintage are. Only time will tell.

Flight I
1997 Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi, Albino Rocca
A fine, velvety, mature nose with notes of sweet tobacco, dried cherries, undergrowth, rosemary and Christmas spices. A fine maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is medium bodied, dry and earthty with notes of tobacco, dried raspberries, dry licorice and gravel. A fine finish with soft tannins. Perfectly mature.
91p   (tasted 2017/12)

1997 Barolo Vigna Giachini, Corino
A fine, cool, dusty nose with notes of raspberry licorice, candle grease, roses, tobacco and warm earth. Dark and fine. Feels like it comes from a hot year but 20 year have melted that warmth nicely into the core of the wine. Really good.
The taste is seedy, warm and dry with notes of red currants, cherries, asphalt and tobacco. A long, rich finish with a fine balance and dryness at the end. A great mouthful of mature Nebbiolo.
93p   (tasted 2017/12)

1997 Langhe Arborina, Altare
A cool elegant nose with notes of dried raspberries, herbs, roses, minerals and dry tobacco. A very fine maturity. Deep and fine.
The taste is restrained and refined with notes of dry licorice, cherries, violets and some balsamic notes. Very long and nicely structured. This is really fine. Will hold on for 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2017/12)

1997 5StelleSfursat, Nino Negri
This shows some warmth on the nose, with notes of cooked cherries, fir wood, veal stock and asphalt. A fine depth but a tad too warm.
The taste is warm and spicy with notes of dried raspberries, sugared coffe, dry licorice and herbs. Long, warm and dry. Very good in an open, warm, dry way.
87p   (tasted 2017/12)

1997 Syriacus, Feudi di San Gregorio
A big, open, warm nose with notes of tar, dried black cherries, wood smoke and undergrowth. A tad one dimensional, but a nice sweetness.
The taste is warm, dry and broad with notes of dark cherries, scorched earth, tobacco and gravel. Deep, dark and long.
88p   (tasted 2017/12)

1997 Pin, La Spinetta
This Barbera, Nebbiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon blend displays a fine, elegant, low keyed nose with notes of violets, licorice, dark cherries and a ever so slight touch of chocolate. Very fine.
The taste is concentrated and tight with some maturity and notes of hard cherry candy, violets, chocolate biscuits and licorice. A long, warm finish with a very nice mouthfeel. Very, very good. Fully mature.
91p   (tasted 2017/12)

Flight II
1997 Barolo Bricco delle Viole, G. D. Vajra
Vajra has produced a stunning Viole in 1997. 20 years on it sports a deep, barely mature nose with notes of dried mushrooms, paint, violets, roses, tobacco and Finnish licorice. Very handsome.
The taste is nicely concentrated with notes of sweet/sour cherries, dried flowers, warm sand and violets. The finish is long, dry and intense. Has matured in a splendid way, drink now and the coming 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2017/12)

1997 Barolo, Altare
Altare withdrew the entire batch of the 97 Normale because of cork problems. Some escaped on to the market with Dolcetto corks. This is one of them, and it is a beauty. The nose is deep and focused with notes of raspberry licorice, dried meat, warm gravel and sweet flowers. With air there is a lot of forest floor aromas. Some maturity but this still has places to go.
The taste is tight, floral and mouthcoating with notes of dried cherries, raspberry licorice, mushrooms and gravel. Long and distinct with a fine dryness to the tannins. Drink now and 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2017/12)

1997 Barolo Cannubi, Paolo Scavino
The Cannubi from Sandrone is a dream. Hauntingly beautiful scents of ripe lingonberries, sand, earth, bakelite, rosehips and dried strawberries flows up from the glass. Very elegant and with a great liveliness. Has entered its maturity plateau but will keep on going for many more years.
The taste follows the lovely nose with a sandy, concentrated taste with notes of ceps, dried strawberries, tobacco, licorice and rosehips. The finish goes on and on. Great structure. Great wine.
96p   (tasted 2017/12)

1997 Barolo Marenca, Luigi Pira
The Marenca shows a deep, dark, meaty nose with notes of black cherries, violets, tapenade, salmiak and moist earth. Very deep and fine. Barely mature. Lots of interest here. Rocky Serralunga fruit.
The taste is steady and warm with notes of smoky cherry fruit, licorice, fir wood and coffee. There still is a firm grip to the tannins. Long and structured. Very fine. Has 10+ years to go.
93p   (tasted 2017/12)

1997 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra, Domenico Clerico
One of my favourite Baroli displays its virtous in this vintage. The nose is deep and inviting with gorgeous aromas of raspberry licorice, hard cherry candy, gravel, dried flowers and furniture oil. Complex and very fine. Just entering maturity.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of red currants, red cherries, dry licorice, mushrooms and rosehips. A long, balanced finish with a firm backbone. Drink now and the coming 8+ years. A stunning wine.
95p   (tasted 2017/12)

1997 Barolo Pajana, Domenico Clerico
Corked "%¤#/&!!!
Not rated   (tasted 2017/12)

24 Hours In The Rhone Valley - Part One - A Visit To Côte-Rôtie & A Fabolous Dinner

This week I spent 24 hours in Rhone, my first trip there. I had really fun climbing the vineyards of Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage and visiting the plain land of Crozes-Hermitage, and then tasting the wines from these vineyards in Paul Jaboulet´s Vineum, their combined store and tasting room.

Disclaimer - this trip was fully paid by Nigab.
One could ask oneself - does that affect my opions on the wines tasted? IMHO not a bit. I am far too old (and too cynical :-)), have tasted too much and have the funds too (almost...) buy the wines I like and make the journeys I want. I just call the wines as I see them.

The Frey family (Billecart-Salmon, La Lagune, Château Corton C) took over the Jaboulet estate in 2006 and Caroline Frey took over the management, shifting the viticulture into organic farming. From 2016 Jaboulet is organic certified. They have over the last couple of years gone beyond the organic management into biodynamice agriculture and the result so far, as Sébastian Baillon, wineyard manager, explains, is white wines (where the have started)  that are more lively, more delicate and with more tension.

We met up with Sebastian and Bertrand Michet, export manager at Jaboulet. Bertand spent the major part of our visit with us and showed us the vineyards, the cellar and the wines, except for the fist visit to Côte-Rôtie, of which Jaboulet owns 2,7 ha.
We started by climbing  the steep hills while Sebastian talked about the vineyards and the viticulture.

We are going up there!, says Sebastian

And up we went...

40 year old vines in Côte-Rôtie

After our visit to Côte-Rôtie we installed us at our hotel and then went out to check out the quiet town of Tain l´Hermitage. This is the time of the year when not many visitors grace this area, so it was hard to find a open place to get something to drink. We eventually found a bar open so we managed until we went to the restaurant Le Mangevis.
This pearl of a restaurant lies on a back street with a unassuming entry, but when inside it is a small, warm place with a nice atmosphere and a focus on wine as you can see below. Great food here!

NV Longitude, Larmandier-Bernier
We started with this Blanc de Blancs that has a gorgeous, racy nose with notes of flint, Lily of the Valley, wet stones and lemon cream. Silky and fine. Really good.
The taste is vigorous and pure with notes of smoke, dry lemon fudge, white flowers and dry biscuits. A long, fine finish with a lovely acidity. Would love to drink this one again.
92p   (tasted 2018/02)

2015 Hermitage le Chevalier de Sterimberg, Jaboulet
Poured from a magnum, as it should be! The nose is a dream with deep, haunting notes of lemon oil, ripe flowers, hay, spices and lots of sweet minerals. Lovely.
The taste is dense and structured and yet balanced and light in a wonderful combination. Fine notes of dried up lemon curd, dried flowers, spices and chrushed rocks. A very fine mouthfeel. Not the highest acidity but just enough to balance the rich fruit. Complex. Drink now and the coming 10+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/02)

2006 Hermitage La Chapelle, Jaboulet
Another magnum hits the table. This was the first vintage of the new reign. And what a wine! The nose is deep and profound with lovely notes of meat stock, sweet violets. roasted black peppers, warm tiles and fir wood. Refined and utterly gorgeous.
The taste is still on the young side of things (I guessed 2010...) with notes of blackberries, violets, dark chocolate, warm herbs and granite. The finish goes on for over a minute. Really classy. 6+ years.
96p   (tasted 2018/02)

A fine night cap!

2016 Langhe Chardonnay, Bel Colle & 2016 Barbera d´Alba, Giuseppe Rinaldi

Another dynamic duo from Langhe (two earlier duo´s below).

2016 Langhe Chardonnay, Bel Colle
Fermented in steel tanks (70%) and barrique (30%). The nose is cool and spicy with notes of summer flowers, grey pears, red currants, almond paste and a hint if matchbox. Lively and fine.
The taste is silky and fresh with notes of grilled lemons, white currants, banana peel and lots of sweet minerals. A fine acidity. Medium long. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2018/02)

2016 Barbera d´Alba, Giuseppe Rinaldi
An open, seedy, herbal nose with notes of dried cherries, paint, lingonberries and dusty earth. A linear, salivating nose, high and fine.
The taste is perky and tight with notes of lingonberries, cranberries, forest floor, dried herbs and dry licorice. Fine, cool tannins. A low keyed, fine warmth. Long. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2018/02)

2014 Langhe Nascetta, Diego Conterno & 2012 Langhe Nebbiolo, Burlotto
2010 Anas-Cëttá, Elvio Cogno & 2015 Barbera d´Alba, Giacomo Conterno

Four Barbaresco´s From La Ca´Növa

1997 Barbaresco Bric Mentina
The 97 shows a round. mature, low keyed nose with notes of moist forest floor, dried cherries, mushroom soup, dried herbs and some tobacco aromas. Medium deep. Very, very good.
The taste is mature and dry with notes of dry licorice, mushrooms, root vegetables and some balsamic notes. A fine, dry finish. Drinking fine this night but I think it was more vigorous 5 years ago.
89p   (tasted 2018/02)

2011 Barbaresco Montestefano
A deep, open, juicy nose with notes of red cherries, Christmas spices, dry tobacco and lots of minerals. Classy. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and slender with notes of dried raspberries, rosehip, violets and gravel. Finely textured tannins. Beginning to open up. 3+ years.
92p   (tasted 2017/12)

2013 Barbaresco
A crisp, stony nose with notes of lingonberries, dry violets, paint and bakelite. Medium deep. Very good.
The taste is low keyed but finely balanced with light red fruit, gravel, dried mushrooms and cigarette ash. A medium long finish. Very nice.
87p   (tasted 2018/01)

2013 Barbaresco Montefico Vigna Bric Mentina
A laid back, finely tuned nose with notes of hard cherry candy, paint, dry tobacco and a hint of fir wood. Handsome. Very fine.
The taste is cool and balanced with notes of lingonberries, dried raspberries, glue, bakelite and gravel. Fine boned. Very, very good. 5+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/02)

Some other wines tasted from La Ca´Növa recently:
1990 Montefico & Bric Mentina, 2011 Montefico Vigna Bric mentina

Sole Walewska & Two Bottles Of Kumeu River Chardonnay

Sole Walewska, created in 1855 by Urbain Dubois, containing such yummy things like sole (obviously...), lobster, asparagus and truffle in a lobster sauce, was the dinner highlight tonight.
With two New Zeeland Chardonnay´s.

2015 Estate Chardonnay, Kumeu River
The Estate has a fine, flowery nose with notes of ripe lemons, grass, dry fudge and hazel nuts. A fine crisp nose. Very, very good.
The taste is dry and fine with notes of lemon peel, mineral, smoke and a hint of passionfruit. A fine acidity. Long and fine. Worked fine with the food.
90p   (tasted 2018/01)

2015 Maté´s Chardonnau, Kumeu River
A deep, multi layered and complex nose with notes of grilled lemons, sea food shells, white flowers, birch cherry and cap gun smoke. Refined. Gorgeous.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of lemon cream, hand cream, milk chocolate fudge and sweet minerals. Focused and silky. Very long. A gorgeous acidity. A fine saltiness. Lovely. This was a perfect match with the food.
95p   (tasted 2018/01)

Wines Of New Years Eve - Leroy, Keller, Mascarello, Sandrone, Burlotto & More

One month since New Years Eve, the notes are piling up...
The evening was spent at home with close friends, great food (if I may say so myself who cooked all the food...) and some nice bottles of wine.

It didn´t start that well though, since the bottle of 1995 Dom Perignon I opened was horribly corked.
Well, it got better.

1995 Brut, Comtesse Marie-Louise
The backup bottle was a nice surprise, with a mature, round, generous nose with notes of red autumn apples, mushroom cream, stale bread and sun warm rocks. Fully mature and fine.
The taste is medium bodied, mature and creamy with notes of almond paste, ripe red apples, tiles and minerals. A fine upliftning acidity at the end. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2017/12)

1982 Bourgogne, Leroy d´Auvernay
If I would make a guess - Leroy made no white Premier or Grand Cru´s in 1982, so all that juice was blended into this Bourgogne, for this is the real thing. A deep, silky, gorgeous nose with notes of ripe oranges, tangerines, smoke, vanilla fudge and parsnips. A lovely maturity, but barely so, still perky. Stunning.
The taste is refined and racy with notes of candied lemons, smoke, para nuts and tangerines. Sweet minerals. Long, long and mouth coating. Delightful. Perfectly mature and a wine that perform way over its Bourgogne level.
95p   (tasted 2017/12)

2008 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatierès, Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet
A fine, smoky, cristallin nose with notes of candied lemons, salty biscuits, chrushed rocks and birch leaves. Very elegant and with some mature features.
The taste is dry and expressive with notes of tangerines, lemon cream, almonds and cap gun smoke. A long, mineral laden finish. Drinking really fine but 3+ more years in the cellar wouldn´t hurt.
93p   (tasted 2017/12)

2008 Westhofen Kirschspiel Riesling Trocken, Keller
Last tasted two years ago and this is evolving at a snails pace because it felt exactly the same - the freshly cut grass is there, a hint of rubber and with a very fine depth.
The taste is pure, exact and racy with great yellow fruit and a zingy acidity. Needs another 5 years (at least).
93p   (tasted 2017/12)

The Cannubi line up!

1996 Barolo Cannubi, E. Pira
A sweet, mature, forthcoming nose with notes of dried cherries, a mushroom forest, dry licorice and coffee. Round and fine, with a fine depth.
The taste is dry, mature and fine with notes of cherries, dry licorice, dried flowers and violets. A fine, dry finish. This bottle is fully mature, maybe a tad to soon for a 96 Cannubi from Pira? Anyway, a fine bottle of mature Nebbiolo.
91p   (tasted 2017/12)

1999 Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello
The 1989 two months ago and now the 99 - life is good! The ten year younger Mascarello offers up a deep, handsome, finely tuned nose with notes of ripe lingonberries, forest floor, rose petals a hint of worn leather. Very refined. Lovely.
The taste is still tight and on the young side of things with notes of lingonberries, cranberries, dried roses, earth and paint. The finish goes on for minutes. Some rugged tannins still. Needs at least 6 years. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2017/12)

2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis, Sandrone
A tight, compact nose with notes of ripe cherries, licorice, pipe tobacco and a hint of dried up vanilla pods. Very deep. A lovely sweetness to the fruit. A hint of maturity.
The taste is tight and fine with notes of sweet/sour cherries, rosehips, sugared coffee and forest floor. Very long and distinct with tannins still packing a punch at the finish. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2017/12)

2013 Barolo Cannubi, Burlotto
Fabios 13 Cannubi made the most memorable list 2017 because of this bottle and the one we tasted at the estate with Fabio. This is an ethereal, young Barolo that is hauntingly beautiful and seemingly light but there is lots of structure and backbone under the flirtatious fruit. A magical wine.
97p   (tasted 2017/12)

The year shifts into 2018 with some 739 Jacquesson

2014 Pensamentu, Cantina Sorres

How often do I drink Cannonau? Well, almost never. But after tasting this wine I think I should drink more.
A tasting sample from Divinum Wine.

2014 Pensamentu, Cantina Sorres
This wine comes from Sennori, in the northwest of Sardinia. The nose is young, fresh and floral with notes of sweet/sour cherries, road dust, minerals, herbs and dry licorice. A high, fine nose, sligthly reminiscent of a fine Sangiovese. Very, very good.
The taste is cool, fresh, light on its feet yet with substance and character, with notes of red currants, herbs, minerals and a tiny touch of saltiness, in a open, inviting and gulpable way. A fine lenght with a energetic acidity and medium bodied tannins. 15% alcohol but feels like 12%. This I really like. For drinking now and the coming 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/01)

A Vertical Of Granato 1986 - 2015

1986 & 2015

How often do I drink Teroldego? To seldom I concur after this tasting. At least Teroldego from Foradori.
My friend S arranged this tasting and I was able to contribute the 1986 (the first Granato) and the 1997. It became a tasting to remember.

2006 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Willi Schaefer
Two warm up wines. The first has a fine, somewhat mature nose with notes of raincoat, dried apricots, asphalt, hay and lime peel. Very, very good. A fine maturity.
The nose is tight, dry and mature with notes of saffron, oranges, dried honey and hay. Long and fine. A fine acidity.
89p   (tasted 2017/12)

2015 Fontamasanta Nosiola, Foradori
The second has a ahy nose with notes of oyster shells, white pepper, flower water and dry rubber. Interesting but not that good.
The taste is high pitched and dry with notes of hairspray, dry almonds, tangerines and soap. medium bodied. Not for me.
82p   (tasted 2017/12)

Flight I
2014 Sgarzon Teroldego, Foradori
A young, seedy nose with notes of spicy blueberries, iodine, dry licorice, smoke and some metallic aromas. Very, very good.
The taste is dry and cool with a good grip and notes of blueberries, red currants, dried flowers and earth. A long finish with a high acidity. Will need some time in the cellar.
89p   (tasted 2017/12)

2041 Morei Teroldego, Foradori
The Morei is a tad warmer on the nose with notes of warm tiles, cherries, ripe flowers and a hint of dark chocolate. A fine depth.
The taste is cool, energetic and dry with notes of ripening red cherries, gravel, dry licorice and ink. Long and very fine.
91p   (tasted 2017/12)

Flight II
1986 Granato, Foradori
The first vintage of Granato is a vital 32 year old that is full of character and wilfulness. The nose is deep, concentrated and finely mature with notes of spicy cherries, violets, moist earth and a hint of dark orange chocolate. Very deep and fine.
The taste is round, mature and generous with notes of dried cherries, orange chcocolate, earth and violet pastilles. A long, dry, sandy finish with lots of energy still. Really fine.
93p   (tasted 2017/12)

1997 Granato, Foradori
The 97 Granato is a stunner. The nose flows up from the glass with intense aromas of ripe cherries, veal stock, wild boar salami, undergrowth and a hint of paint. Braod and deep yet with lots of finesse and balance. Just a hint of maturity.
The taste is concentrated and rich with notes of dried strawberries, cherries, Christmas spices, smoke and a hint of detergent (in a positive way!). A long, intense finish with still noticable tannins and a refreshing acidity. A gorgeous wine.
96p   (tasted 2017/12)

Flight III
2006 Granato, Foradori
The first wine that actually smelled of pomegranate, from which Granato has got its name. But there is more, fine aromas of dark flowers, pepper, earth and violets arises from the glass. Very fine.
The taste is young and tight with notes of lingonberries, pomegranate, dry licorice and earth. medium bodied with a high acidity and fine purity. Needs 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2017/12)

2008 Granato, Foradori
The 08 is a tight creature, with a stony, rocky nose with notes of ripening flowers, dark cookie dough, violets and dusty earth. Deep but a tad locked up.
The taste is cool and fine with notes of flowers, red beets, ski wax and ripe lingonberries. A fine balance. Needs lots of time to open up. 7+ years.
90p   (tasted 2017/12)

2009 Granato, Foradori
A handsome, refined nose with notes of cool blueberries, damson, rosemary, flint and - oh yes - pomegranate. Very fine. A lovely structure.
The taste is young, pure and brilliant with notes of ripening cherries, lingonberries, chrushed rocks, violets and spices. A long finish with finely polished tannins and a uplifting acidity. Balanced through and through. 6+ years.
95p   (tasted 2017/12)

Flight IV
2010 Granato, Foradori
Corked! Too bad, it seemed to be a very fine wine underneath.
No rating   (tasted 2017/12)

2013 Granato, Foradori
A young, tight, concentrated nose with notes of red beets, balsa wood, pomegranate, iron and asphalt. A very fine warmth. Ripe and rich. Very, very good.
The taste is lively and potent with notes of cranberries, lingonberries, earth/iron and some meaty notes. Very young and very promising, 8+ years.
92p   (tasted 2017/12)

2015 Granato, Foradori
A deep, smoky and earthy notes with a mix of blueberries and lingonberries alongside notes of damson, violets and undergrowth. High, pure and very fine.
The taste is high strung in a positive way with notes of blueberries, cranberries, smoke, spices and violets. A long, finely tuned finish with a high acidity and polished tannins. Give this beauty 10 years.
But I don´t know if I like the new label...
93p   (tasted 2017/12)

2009 Kreuznacher Krötenphuhl Riesling Kabinett, Dönnhoff
A high, energetic, lovely nose with notes of almond. lemon peel, apricots and gravel. Very fine. A lovely freshness.
The taste is racy and elegant with notes of lemon juice, metal, hay and dry almond paste. The finish is long and racy with a really fine acidity. This is fine.
92p   (tasted 2017/12)