Tuesday 28 August 2012

An Evening With Wines From Mauro Veglio

A couple of days ago I was invited - thanks FV! - to a tasting of an array of wines from Mauro Veglio. The proprietors, Mauro and Daniela, was in Stockhom for a couple of days and this was a opportunity for some Barolo afficionados to taste their range of wines.

It was great meeting Mauro and Daniela, charming and passionate people, that are, rightfully so, proud over the wines they produce. For information about vineyards, cellar practises, vintages and so forth, check out -http://www.mauroveglio.com/ita/

We started with their Dolcetto and Barbera wines.
2011 Dolcetto d´Alba, Mauro Veglio
A fresh, young, upfront nose with lots of gorgeous lingon- and blueberries, licorice, dry resin and flowery notes. Very salivating.
The taste is as fresh and juicy as the nose lets on. Oodles of lingon- and blueberries, licorice, earth and a touch of metal (not in a negative way). A very salivating acidity. Very fresh and drinkable.
85p   (tasted 2012/08)

2011 Barbera d´Alba, Mauro Veglio
A cool, somewhat restrained nose with notes of not ripe rasberries, red apples, whole wheat biscuits and some chocolaty aromas. Good.
The taste is young, tight and a touch foursquare with lots of acidity and a medium sweet blueberry fruit. The middle taste is somewhat dry. A bit ungainly todat but there is fruit and structure here for something better in a year or so.
78p   (tasted 2012/08)

2010 Barbera d´Alba Cascina Nuova, Mauro Veglio
A fresh, young, pure nose with notes of blueberry pie, moist forest floor, leather and chocolate covered biscuits. A bit bushy, but in a good way. A fine sweetness to the fruit. Very good.
The taste is young, tight and a bit demanding with nice acidity and fine bluberry fruit. The finish is tight and nicely structured. Very good. Needs a year or two.
88p   (tasted 2012/08)

We continued with a fine serie of nebbiolos, first in the shape of a Langhe and then the whole line up of Barolis from 2008.
2010 Langhe Nebbiolo, Mauro Veglio
This is made from grapes from younger Barolo vineyards in La Morra and Monforte d´Alba. It has a fine, laid back, cool nose with notes of ripening red cherries, rose petals, minerals, almond paste and a fine floral note. Very fine in a unobtrusive way.
The taste is seedy, full of extract and firm with lots of sweet lingonberries, red currants, rose bushes and minerals. Pure and fine. A medium long finish. Very, very good. In 2-3 years time this should be a very fine bottle of wine. For 13 Euro at the cellar this is a bargain.
89p   (tasted 2012/08

2008 Barolo, Mauro Veglio
First out in the whole line up of the 2008 Baroli is the Normale. It starts out in a restrained way but with some coaxing nice aromas of red cherries, licorice, violets and a touch of smoke emerges. Very young.
The taste is young, tight and finely focused with notes of lingonberries, red cherries, licorice and the taste of a dusty summer road. A medium long finish taht ends with a fine dry note. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2012/08)

2008 Barolo Arborina, Mauro Veglio
Aaaah, there is something special about the wines from Arborina. At least for my nose and taste buds. This has a deep, gorgeous nose with lots and lots of crushed rose petals, red cherries, dried strawberries, a sweet, deep earthy note and a touch of chocolate. A wonderful nose!
The taste is young and tight but filled with lovely sweet fruit, strappy tannins and a minute long finish. A lovely note of rose petals fills the mouth in the finish. Very elegant. Still very young of course, but this is hard to resist today.
94p   (tasted 2012/08)

2008 Barolo Gattera, Mauro Veglio
A big, warm, earthy nose with notes of red and black cherries, sun warm rocks, fresh mushrooms, licorice and tobacco. This has a lovely sweetness. More of a brute than the Arborina, but a kindhearted brute.
The taste is very tight, pure and concentrated with sweet cherry fruit, almost in the shape of cherry liqueur, and notes of tobacco, licorice and moist earth. Hard cherry candy shows up in the finish. Very warm but on the right side of things. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2012/08)

2008 Barolo Castelletto, Mauro Veglio
This is the only Barolo that doesn´t come from La Morra, but originates from Monforte d´Alba. On the nose it is darker, warmer and with more muscle than the two previous wines. More black than red cherries, a touch of blackberries with green raisins, dried strawberries and leather thrown in. A touch monolithic. Needs time.
The taste is very tight and concentrated with seedy black fruit and very noticable tannins. There is fine elements here and there but this needs to come together. A fine sweetness shines through. A very long finish with a fine warmth. Needs 5+ years.
86p   (tasted 2012/08)

2008 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata, Mauro Veglio
This, alongside the Arborina, was the star of the tasting. A hauntingly deep, concentrated , fresh nose with notes of sweet blueberries, chrushed summer flowers, dark chocolate, ski wax and sun warm rocks. Very, very deep and fine.
The taste is young, tight, focused and seemingly hard until the wealth of sweet blueberry fruit makes it mark. There is a taste like the essence of dried roses. Also there is notes of tobacco, pan fried spices and earth. The finish is over one minute long. Very, very young. Great wine!
94p   (tasted 2012/08)

Then there were a line up of five vintages of the Barbera Cascina Nuova. The 2004 has a fine nose of sweet/sour red fruit and a lively, fine taste that could use a year or two more in the cellar (87p). The 2003 was a telling example of that this kind of warm, upfront vintages of Barbera should be drunk sooner than later. Lots of rubber and paint on the nose and full of fiery, sweet fruit in the taste and the overall image is of a unbalanced wine (72p). The 2000 is also marked of the warmth of the vintage but holds everything together much, much better, and is very drinkable right now (85p). The 2001 and 1999 shows that when Barbera is done right it is a very fine, yummy kind of wine. Both wines has hedonistically sweet fruit paired with a fine structure and lip smacking acidity that drinks sooo weell. Both wines (90p).

We finished with a mini vertical of Castelletto.
2004 Barolo Castelletto, Mauro Veglio
A fine, intense and lovely nose with notes of lingonberries, red cherries, licorice and rosehips. A wrote "floral" three times, so it obviously has a fine note of flowers in different shapes! Deep and fine. Really elegant.
The taste is still on the young side with lots of sweet red cherry fruit paired with notes of undergrowth, mushrooms, licorice and dark chocolate. The tannins creep up on you in the finish. Needs another 3-5 years in the cellar. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2012/08)

2001 Barolo Castelletto, Mauro Veglio
A deep, cool, fine nose with notes of red cherries, dried strawberries, leather and christmas spices. With some air the fruit becomes very upfront in a fine way. On its way to maturity.
The taste is tighter and more intense than the nose leads you to believe. Fine notes of chocolate covered cherries, licorice, violets and earth. The finish is long and warm. Needs another 3+ years.
90p   (tasted 2012/08)

2000 Barolo Castelletto, Mauro Veglio
This has a more subdued nose than the other ones in this flight. With some coaxing, notes of cool lingonberries, dried spices, dry leather and road dust emerges from the glass. There is also a nice floral note after a while. Fine.
The taste on the other hand is somewhat of a masochist dream, with seedy, dry tannins, a high acidity and not nearly enough fruit to balance the tannins with. I´m sceptical that cellaring will help. Maybe a big steak could do wonders with it, but this is not for me. Nice nose though.
81p   (tasted 2012/08)

1999 Barolo Castelletto, Mauro Veglio
A warm, fine, rather big nose with lovely red and black cherry fruit, moist earth, spices, rosehips, pipe tobacco and balsamic vinegar. Deep and fine. There is some maturity here. Very, very good.
The taste is more tight than the nose with lovely purity, sweet fruit and nice structure. Notes of black cherries, rosehips, tobacco and asphalt fills the mouth. The finish is medium long, very well balanced and ends with a fine dry twist. This has come part on its way to maturity, but needs 2-3 years more. Very fine.
92p   (tasted 2012/08)

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