Wednesday 8 July 2020

Who Said That Dolcetto Can´t Age? Three Bottles From 1990

Dolcetto Boys & Girls. In this illustrious association I am number three. Elisa Scavino is number two and my friend S is number one, and also the founder.
We take Dolcetto serious. As it should be.

1990 Dolcetto d´Alba, Parusso
At first, a bit foursquare on the nose but with a couple of hours air it displays notes of dry leather, damson, earth, dried up lingonberry jam and linseed oil. Very good.
The taste is dry and linear with notes of dried red currants, earth, dry leather and ink. A bit short. Nice enough, fully alive but in the end a tad one dimensional.
84p   (tasted 2020/07)

1990 Dolcetto d´Alba Vigneto Sorj Canta, Eredi Lodali
A high, spicy nose with notes of red currants, band aid, forest floor, linoleum and dry tobacco. Very interesting. Changes over the evening with added red fruits and a furniture polish aroma.
The taste is tight and still perky with notes of red currants, lingonberries, dried herbs and tobacco. A high acidity. Long. A fine dryness. Very, very good. Mature but bottles like this will go on for 5+ years.
87p   (tasted 2020/07)

1990 Dolcetto d´Alba San Rümu, La Spinetta
1990 was the heyday of barriques in Langhe. But to use barriques on Dolcetto? I´m not sure but I could wage a bet or two that this wine has seen the inside of a barrique. The nose is large scaled and concentrated with notes of chocolate bisquits, dried raspberries, old wood, tobacco and incense. Very deep and fine.
The taste is big and dry with a mix of dried raspberries and blueberries, earth, tobacco and dry chocolate. Very long. Intense. Mature, yes, but I would say barely so, drink this now and the coming 10+ years. Who said that Dolcetto can´t age?
90p   (tasted 2020/07)

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