Friday 3 June 2022

Seven Decades Of Barolo - 1958 - 2013

It was my turn to host our monthly tasting and I put these on the table. Tasted double blind most guesses gravitated towards Nebbiolo but that it was 55 years between the youngest and oldest no one guessed.

1958 Barolo Riserva, Borgogno
A deep, mature, round nose with notes of dried raspberries, old leather, rubber carpets and moist earth. A very fine dried up sweetness. Very, very good and very much alive.
The taste is soft and mature but still has a good bit of oomph. Notes of bonfire, dried raspberries, asphalt and cold coffee. Long, dry and fine.
90p   (tasted 2022/05)

1964 Barolo, Franco Fiorina
From the Greatest Vintage Ever and obvious enough a fantastic wine. The nose soars from the glass with notes of dried red cherries, orange peel, toasted almonds, mushrooms and coffee powder. Very complex. Gorgeous fruit.
The taste is broad and concentrated with notes of roses, asphalt, iron, dried cherries and rosehips. Very long. Still on the young side of things, bottles like this will go on for 20+ years.
96p   (tasted 2022/05)

1978 Barolo Riserva, Giovanni Sordo
Old school and dry, a tad so, with notes of smoke, dog fur, black te and hints of red apples. Warm.
The taste is tough and seedy with notes of bakelite, dried red fruits, ink and earth. Little like chewing on a cherry pip. 
85p   (tasted 2022/05)

1982 Barolo, Renato Ratti
A very handsome, perfectly mature and balanced nose with notes of wild strawberries, herbs, roses en masse and some leathery aromas. High and very fine.
The taste is mature and velvety with notes of fine tobacco, roses, red tea and rosehips. Silky tannins. Long and lovely.
94p   (tasted 2022/05)

1996 Barolo Brunate, Marengo
A deep, rather sturdy nose with notes of ripe black cherries, leather, orange peel and asphalt. Dark. Very good.
The taste is taut and still young with notes of salmiak, black cherries, asphalt and violets. Needs time. A fine warmth in the finish. 6+ years.
88p   (tasted 2022/05)

2001 Barolo Pie Rupestris, Cappellano
Very handsome and balanced, the nose flows up from the glass with notes of cranberries, red currants, forest floor, rosehips and dry licorice. Lovely.
The taste is silky and seductive with notes of red currants, dried flowers, rosehips and some tarry notes. Very long and lingering. 4+ years.
Since the late Theobaldo didn´t want his wines scored, I never do   (tasted 2022/05)

2013 Barolo Cannubi, Burlotto
A perennial favourite of mine (more than the Monvigliero to be honest), this 2013 has (as most 2013) locked up the fruit and gone into hiding. I guess we have to wait 8+ years before it show itself like this again. Glad I have more.
94p   (tasted 2022/05)

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