Saturday, 7 February 2015

Drinking Tonight - 2009 Heytesbury Chardonnay, Vasse Felix


With skewers filled with pieces of halibut, salmon and scallops and a white wine sauce and angel hair pasta I opened a bottle of this perennial favourite of mine.

2009 Heytesbury Chardonnay, Vasse Felix
This Margaret River Chardonnay is a charmer right out of the bottle. From the glass notes of white peaches, crushed flint, caramel, lemon cream and a touch of pineapple flows up. Really yummy, yet with a fine concentration and focus.
The taste is creamy and intense with lovely sweet yellow fruit and notes of sweet limes, cap gun smoke, milk chocolate fudge, white flowers and gravel. A long, balanced finish that ends dry. Very, very good. Will go on for years although I don´t think it will get better.
92p   (tasted 2015/02)


Drinking Tonight - 2010 Chianti Riserva, Panzanello

I opened this to go along some fine lamb chops with a mushroom sauté and a rosemary sauce.

2010 Chianti Classico Riserva, Panzanello
A rather big but nicely put together nose with notes of ripe red cherries, warm rosemary, violets, a hint of chocolate and some Tuscan gravel. Still young of course but this could turn out very fine.
The taste is warm, caressing and concenterated with a sweet, juicy cherry fruit alongside notes of liquorice, gravel, fresh herbs and dark chocolate. Medium bodied tannins. A high drinkability on this one. Very good.
89p   (tasted 2015/02)


Tuesday, 3 February 2015

A Fine Bottle Of Chablis

To be honest, I did not have any higher expectations on this bottle. A 36 year old Premier Cru from a passable vintage. The bottle looked fine though, the level was perfect for the age and I have had some good bottles from Louis Michel before. So I held my fingers crossed and pulled the cork...

1979 Chablis 1er Cru Montmain, Louis Michel
The first couple of minutes it is quite muted but then, like a caterpillar turning into a butterfly, it blossoms in the glass. The nose is beautiful with notes of salt stained rocks, lemon peel, dry nuts, white currants and a hint of band aid. Medium deep. It has a wonderful balance and intensity.
The taste is cool and taut with some signs of maturity and notes of dried peaches, nuts, oyster shells and that salty tang that fine Chablis can have. A medium long, finely tuned finish. I guess this has, even though it still feels rather youngish, started it downward slope. I am glad I caught it in time.
91p   (tasted 2015/01)



Monday, 2 February 2015

BYOB Evening With A California Twist

6 of us gathered at Ulf´s place for a evening with brought bottles. It turned out to be a great evening and interesting enough, almost all bottles came from the USA. Thanks all!
All wines tasted blind, except for the ones I brought.

NV Cumières Premier Cru Brut, Georg Laval
Peter brought this bubbly. The nose is fine and elegant with notes of lemon peel, pickled ginger, gravel, smoke and oriental spices. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and finely tuned with notes of lemon cream, gravel, white flowers and a touch of almond paste. A very fine acidity with a steely touch. As good as the Brut Nature tasted a year ago.
90p   (tasted 2015/01)


2012 Bentrock Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay, Sandhi
This had me firmly positioned in the hallowed land of Burgundy when we were guessing its origin. A very refined, chalky nose with notes of cold butter, white peaches, butter biscuits and blood oranges. A very cool, laid back character. Really fine.
The taste is young, tight and focused with notes of lime and lemon peel, white flowers, fudge and sand. A long, balanced finish. Very, very good and perfect with the king crab with a truffle sauce!
92p   (tasted 2015/01)



1976 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsort, Domaine Clos Frantin
This was my first offering and sadly it didn´t perform. I have had this before and then it has been a great, mature Burgundy. But as the saying goes, there are no great wines, just great bottles.
The nose is muffled and foursquare with notes of dirty root vegetables, dog fur and old red apples.
The taste is angular and old with notes of dried red currants, undergrowth and old leather. Fairly long. Worked with the food but to dry on its own. Too bad.
76p   (tasted 2015/01)

2003 Paradise Hills Vineyard Merlot, Blankiet Estate
And now over for something completely different - A big, big, brawny nose with overripe black fruits and notes of red beet juice, bakelite, burning plastic and oak. With ait it calms down a bit but there is an overripe, over-the-top feeling about it.
The taste is massive and intense with notes of wood smoke, black fruits, bakelite and rubber tyres. The finish is very long, rich an fiery. Surely a well made wine but for me it is too much. Merlot? Ok, why not, it is impossible to find any grape attributes.
83p   (tasted 2015/01)


2009 Vin Perdu, Amuse Bouche
The cepage of this stunner is mixed - Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon & Cabernet Franc - but it works really well! The nose is big and bold with gorgeous notes of ripe black currants, blueberries, dark fudge, graphite and warm tiles. A very creamy fruit with a fine depth and delineation.
The taste is compact and broad with lovely black fruit in the shape of currants and cherries with additional notes of sweet tobacco, sugared coffee and warm tiles. A long, balanced finish with a finr warmth. Great stuff!
93p   (tasted 2015/01)



2008 Carrie´s Pinot Noir, Melville
Magnus brought this fine Pinot Noir from Melville, from whom I just the other week had tasted some 08´s. This was far better. The nose is typical Pinot with its scents of ripe raspberries, Christmas spices, forest floor and liquorice. Very, very good.
The taste is fine and elegant with notes of sweet raspberries, wild strawberries, fresh herbs and forest floor. A very nice mouth feel. Drinking fine now.
90p   (tasted 2015/01)

2005 Nebbiolo Bricco Buon Natale, Jim, Isabelle & Know Clendenen
I didn´t see this coming. I was dead certain that this was a Nebbiolo from the foggy hills of Piedmonte. But no. It is from California... When I was convinced that it wasn´t a case of mislabelling (a common error in the wine business...) I could sense that this is a very good Nebbiolo,, although from the "wrong" side of the world. The nose is fine with a beginning maturity and notes of lingonberries, mushrooms, earth, red peppers and some rose petals. Very good.
The taste is cool and dry with notes of ripe lingonberries, gravel, dried mushrooms and leather. A medium long finish with a nice warmth. This is good.
88p   (tasted 2015/01)


2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paul Hobbs
A big, inky nose with notes of ripe blackberries, bakelite, dark chocolate and some oak vanilla. There is a scent of red beet juice, something a associate with trying-too-much-winemaking (except in the cases of mature Burgundy of course). Very warm.
The taste is very big and fiery with notes of overripe black fruits, espresso, pipe tobacco and undergrowth. A bit unbalanced. A long, creamy, warm finish. Not my cup of tea.
85p   (tasted 2015/01)

1964 Tegolato,
This was my second offer and unfortunately, this was no good either (that´s the risk you take when you bring old bottles...:-)). It had quite a bottle stink when I opened it, It blew of some but it still smells of a worn gymnastic shoe with some dry red fruit tossed in. Not that appetizing.
The taste is better with notes of old tobacco, dried red fruits, autumn leaves and old, worn leather. Quite long. Better on the palate.
78p   (tasted 2015/01)



2007 James Berry Vineyards Syrah, Copain
This beauty has a big, intense nose with notes of ripe blueberries, bonfire smoke, sweet tobacco, black pepper and meat stock. A creamy character to the fruit. Very, very good.
The taste is big and broad shouldered with lots of sweet blueberries and black cherries with additional notes of peppered meat, bonfire, warm gravel and some fine leather. A long, warm, complex finish. This is good!
92p   (tasted 2015/01)

2005 Barolo Bricco Pernice, Elvio Cogno
Johan brought this Barolo which has a fine nose of red currants, dry liquorice, asphalt and undergrowth. Some maturtity. It is nice but is a bit withdrawn in character.
The taste is tight and dry with lots of dry tannins and a cool red currant and lingonberry fruit. A bit seedy. With food it is fine but the tannins makes it a bit hard on its own.
86p   (tasted 2015/01)



1999 Die Krans Cape Vintage Port
Ulf fools us with a Port styled wine from South Africa as the closing wine. The nose is big, sweet and concentrated with notes of Cherry liquor, assorted nuts, green raisins and chocolate. Sweet and good.
The taste is big, sweet and fiery with notes of nut chocolate, figs in brandy, cherry liquorice and raisins. The finish is long and warm, a bit much so. Will need more time to mature and soften.
87p   (tasted 2015/01)



Sunday, 1 February 2015

Just Bought

When I read on blogs or wine boards about the usual suspects of great German Riesling - Dönnhoff, Keller, J. J. Prüm, Ziliken, Koehler-Ruprecht, Willi Schaefer, Egon Müller et al - there is, usually, one of the greatest missing.
Especially when we are talking about Spätlese and Auslese versions. One of my all time favourite for these magic semi dry/sweet aspects of Riesling is............Robert Weil.
And these bottles was a welcome addition to the cellar.


Saturday, 31 January 2015

Drinking Tonight - 2012 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, Lompoc Wine Co

Yesterday I attended a great BYOB dinner, were most of the bottles were from California (notes to follow). I got a taste for the grapes from the California soil, so I opened this.


2012 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, Lompoc Wine Co
The nose is deep, decadent and just lovely with notes of ripe strawberries sprinkled with black pepper, liquorice, Asian spices and a warm forest floor. A lovely sweetness to the fruit. Very, very good.
The taste is velvety and ripe at first but then it tightens up and in the end it leaves the mouth dry and ready for the next (large) sip. Notes of sweet red currants, raspberries, liquorice and expensive leather are highly noticeable. Medium long, medium bodied and full of real enjoyment. The bottle just evaporate, what to open next?
91p   (tasted 2015/01)


Friday, 30 January 2015

2010 William Murdoch Syrah

This New Zeeland Syrah was opened to go along some grilled sausages.


2010 William Murdoch Syrah
A young, sligthly herbal and spicy nose with notes of blueberries, veal stock and new leather. A medium depth. With air some flowery scents appear. Very good but a tad anonymous. Maybe too young still.
The taste is cool and peppery with notes of blueberries, gravel, veal meat and red bell peppers. Fine, laid back tannins and a medium long finish. Again, very good, but it lacks a bit of character.
87p   (tasted 2015/01)





Tuesday, 27 January 2015

Melville - Architecture, Orchestration & Elaboration

I was invited by Divine to a tasting with Greg Brewer, Melville´s wine maker since 17 years. The theme of the tasting was to see how Soil, Selection and Stems effected the result of Pinot Noir.
We were presented with four flights. The three first highlighted the difference between Soil, Selection and Stems. All other parameters - yeast, barrels, alcohol etc - was the same, the only things setting them apart is noted on each wine below. A very interesting tasting indeed!
The three first flights were barrel samples from the 2014 vintage.
The last flight was a presentation of evolvement over time of finished wines.


Greg made the presentation with flair, humour and enthusiasm, using a lot of, and fascinating, parables - fish, school reunions, body sizes, pupils, books and more...:-)



Flight I - Soil
Glass I - Sand, Sandy´s Block, Clone 114, 33% stems
A light, fresh, herbal Pinot nose with cool red fruit and some peppery aromas. This site is close to the ocean and there is a whiff of salty rocks.
The taste is finely tuned, sandy (!) and pure with a nice warmth and peppery raspberries. Very promising.
~90p   (tasted 2015/01)

Glass II - Sandy Loam, Anna´s Block, Clone 114, 33% stems
The version from the sandy loam has more blue fruits streaks on the nose and the taste is tighter with a higher acidity and a more restrained character.
~88p   (tasted 2015/01)

Glass III - Clay Loam, M Block, Clone 114, 33% stems
The M Block Pinot from its clay soil is more voluptuous and sweeter with raspberry licorice and forest floor. The taste is broader and denser than the previous ones with a lovely sweet fruit.
~91p   (tasted 2015/01)


Flight II - Selection
Glass IV - Sandy´s Block Clone 90, no stems
Reminds me of glass I, with the same perkiness to the fruit, although this is a tad darker. The taste is young and light with sweet lingonberries and red apples. A touch metallic in the finish.
~87p   (tasted 2015/01)

Glass V - Sandy´s Block Clone 459, no stems
A young, more restrained nose than the two others with notes of lingonberries and asphalt. The taste is young and seedy with a high acidity. Good but lacks charm.
~86p   (tasted 2015/01)

Glass VI - Sandy´s Block Clone 37, no stems
There is 16 different clones in Melville´s vineyards, and even though we "only" got to taste three, the #37 must be one of the best. The nose is deep and creamy with a lovely peppery raspberry fruit and the taste is silky yet intense with spices, liquorice and wild strawberries. This should be bottled separately - for me at least! :-)
~93p   (tasted 2015/01)


Flight III - Stem Inclusion
Glass VII - Block M, Clone 115, 0 stems
The one without stems shows a deep, sweet, spicy Pinot nose with liquorice, raspberries and spices. The taste is tight and intense with lot of character and sweet raspberry fruit. Very, very good.
~91p   (tasted 2015/01)

Glass VIII - Block M, Clone 115, 33% stems
The 33% stem inclusion shows that stems really contributes to the wine. This version has a denser, deeper nose and a taste with a tighter palate feel and more concentration. This is really, really good.
~93p   (tasted 2015/01)

Glass IX - Block M, Clone 115, 100% stems
But, as much as some stems can make a wine better, too much makes it worse. With 100% stems the nose becomes withdrawn and gravelly and the taste is very structured. Long, yes, but the fruit is muffled. Perhaps this version needs time to settle.
~87p   (tasted 2015/01)


Flight IV - Evolution

2012 Estate Pinot Noir
The nose is young and perky with notes of cool raspberries, forest floor, herbs and leather. A cool sense on the nose. Very, very good.
The taste is young, refreshing and kind of refined with notes of chocolate covered strawberries, gravel, herbs and liquorice. A medium long, finely tuned finish. Very fine.
92p   (tasted 2015/01)



2008 Estate Pinot Noir
Both the 08´s (see the Chardonnay below) didn´t perform. If it was an awkward moment in time for them, I don´t know. But the Pinot shows a (over)ripe nose with notes of very sweet, mashed strawberries, moist earth and raisiny aromas.
The taste is big, warm and meaty with strawberry jam, earth and tobacco. There is some warmth in the medium long finish. Not my cup of tea.
83p   (tasted 2015/01)

2004 Estate Pinot Noir
The stunning 04 made up for the 08. The nose is beautiful with some maturity and notes of wild strawberries, herbs, forest floor and root vegetables. Some perfumed scents after a while. Really good.
The taste is round, ripe and has a cool raspberry sweetness with notes of tobacco, forest floor, fresh herbs and leather. A fine complexity. This is good!
94p   (tasted 2015/01)


2013 Estate Chardonnay
A young, sprightly nose with notes of vanilla ice cream, white peaches, lemon peel and some grassy aromas. Needs time but this will be good.
The taste is young and fresh with notes of white currants, lemon cream and salty rocks. The finish is long and finely tuned. Very promising.
91p   (tasted2015/01)

2008 Estate Chardonnay
As with the Pinot above, the 08 Chardonnay didn´t perform well. The nose is big and buttery with notes of fish liver oil, apricots and old grass.
The taste is warm and creamy with notes of lemon cream, almond paste and mussels. Better on the palate than on the nose.
87p   (2015/01)


2004 Estate Chardonnay
The best wine on the table! This beauty has a deep, complex nose with notes of cold butter, cap gun smoke, hazel nuts and ripe peaches. Reminds me of an great, outgoing Puligny-Montrachet. Really fine.
The taste is tight and pure with notes of sweet limes, spices, lemon cream, white flowers and milk chocolate fudge. A long, persistent finish with a fine acidity. A great wine that will go on for years!
95p   (tasted 2015/01)












Monday, 26 January 2015

A Bottle Of Bubbly - 2008 Symphonie, Jean Comyn

In order to the fill a case before shipment I selected a bottle of this, for me, unknown producer. It came out as a very nice surprise!
Info here.

2008 Symphonie Brut, Jean Comyn
The blend is 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Meunier. The nose is deep and a tad mature with notes of freshly baked bread, peaches, grapefruit, hard lemon candy and a hint of hand cream. Ripe fruit. Very, very good.
The taste is young and fresh with notes of ripe yellow apples, lemon candy, grapefruit and gravel. A long, creamy finish with a high, refreshing acidity. This could turn out even greater with 3-5 years in the cellar. Another fine 2008. For 37 Euro, this is steal. Guess another order will be on its way soon...
92p   (tasted 2015/01)

Saturday, 24 January 2015

Taking Inventory

It was time to take inventory of the bottles of Riesling in the cellar, and lo and behold - I even found some bottles that I didn´t know I had - lucky me! :-)


Friday, 23 January 2015

Drinking Tonight - 2011 Vino Nobile Di Montepulziano, Poliziano

This has been a hellish week work wise, and this bottle was just pulled to get me some quick satisfaction when I got home tonight. Tomorrow it will be time for some more - hopefully - serious, mature bottles...

2011 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Poliziano
A young, forward, and with some time in the glass, fruity nose with notes of sour cherries, rosemary, cocoa, crushed rocks and a touch of bonfire. Some cigar ashes after a while. Quite upfront and yummy - a very lovely cherry nose.
The taste is tighter with sour/sweet cherries and additional notes of cool liquorice, rosemary, gravel and new leather. The tannins are pretty low keyed but there is a fine acidity. A medium, balanced finish. Very good.
88p   (tasted 2015/01)

Monday, 19 January 2015

Two Times 1987 Brunello di Montalcino

I recently bought a bunch of different Brunello´s from the 1987 vintage. Not the greatest of vintages, the Consorzio rates it three stars, but they were all from fine producers and seemed to be in excellent condition. The added bonus of buying the whole bunch for an attractive tariff, made me go for it.
Time to open two of them.

1987 Brunello di Montalcino, Caprili
This one has a soft, attractive, mature nose with notes of dried cherries, forest floor, boiled root vegetables, worn leather and dried herbs. Some streaks of violets after a while. Fully mature. A fine warmth to the fruit. Very good.
The taste is tighter and fuller than the nose leads you to believe, with lots of sweet black cherries, dried strawberries, warm gravel and herbs. The finish is long, warm and sturdy. In the very end of the taste there is some dry tannins, which are a perfect palate cleanser with food, but when drunk on its own it is a bit to dry at the end. Still very good.
87p   (tasted 2015/01)



1987 Brunello di Montalcino, Pertimali
The Pertimali is several steps up the quality ladder. The nose is mature but just so, with stunning notes of ripe black cherries, cocoa, bonfire, sweet rosemary, sugared coffee and a fine barnyardy scent. Deep, dark and beautiful.
The taste is broad over its shoulders yet precise, with lovely notes of chocolate covered cherries, tar, pipe tobacco, undergrowth and dried herbs. A long, creamy finish with an underlying wave of finely sanded tannins. A very fine structure. Perfectly mature. This is fine!
92p   (tasted 2015/01)

Saturday, 17 January 2015

Castello Dei Rampolla - Mini Verticals Of Sammarco & Vigna d´Alceo

Sverker invited some of us to taste a couple of vintages of Sammarco and Vigna d´Alceo. It turned out to be another great evening - thanks!

But we started with two bottles of white wines, one with bubbles! Served blind.

2006 Felsen Türmchen Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff
A fresh, light on it feet kind of nose with notes of pear ice cream, freshly cut grass, slate and a touch of lavender soap. Very, very good. Feels very young still.
The taste is young and taut with notes of yellow pears, slate, gravel and the same lavender note as on the nose. The acidity is high and fresh and produces lots of saliva. A long, balanced finish that ends dry. This is very fine.
92p   (tasted 2015/01)



1996 Comtes de Champagne, Taittinger
What to say? What superlatives should I use to try to describe this beauty? Only January and already two candidates tasted for making the Most Memorable List when 2015 will be summed up. This is the first.
The nose evolves all night long and I saved the glass to see how it would perform when it had been standing in the glass for several hours and had reach room temperature. It was just stunning.
Some notes - among many - is perfectly ripe yellow apples, freshly washed clothes drying in a summer breeze, birch sap, salted caramel, cap gun smoke and many more.
The taste is like drinking liquid rocks with some caramel, flowers and lemons thrown in. The acidity is perfect. The finish is long, long, long and so balanced and creamy that the only thing you want to do is to take another large sip. And it still very young. We actually nailed it as Comtes de Champagne but I thought it to be younger than this. Will keep for a very long time.
98p   (tasted 2015/01)

From this great outset, four decanters were presented, and it was time for four vintages of Sammarco.
1986 Sammarco
The sixth vintage of Sammarco, the first one being 1980, performed very well. Sammarco is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Sangiovese thrown in, although the 2006 has some Merlot in the blend.
The 86 has a mature, round, barnyardy nose with notes of dried cherries and black currants, lead pencil, pipe tobacco and sweet autumn leaves. The nose is that of a 1985 Bordeaux from a fine Château. Very, very good.
The taste is mature and dry with notes of red and black currants, hard cherry candy, bakelite and some dry tobacco. More sweet and round on the nose than on the palate. A good warmth in the medium long finish where some tannins still are noticeable. If you have em, drink em.
92p   (tasted 2015/01)



1997 Sammarco
This 97 proves that this vintage still is a force to be reckon with (check out 40 bottles of Tuscan 1997 tasted during 2012/2013 for more proof of that statement - here).
The nose shows some signs of maturity but the fruit is still bright, sweet and perky, with notes of black currants, cherry syrup, chocolate wafers, warm tiles and some tobacco aromas. It has depth and refinement. Lovely.
The taste is a class act with a fine black currant and cherry fruit with additional notes of liquorice, lead pencil shavings, black currant leaves and warm tiles. There still is a fair amount of sandy tannins in the long finish. Very vital.
95p   (tasted 2015/01)

1998 Sammarco
The one year younger version displays very much the same character and notes as the 1997, but in a bit more restrained way. The fruit is a tad cooler and it behaves itself with a bit more grace, but I like the exuberance of the 97 more. Still a very, very fine bottle of wine.
92p   (tasted 2015/01)


1999 Sammarco
Corked #¤%&¤#"#¤&!!!!

The next flight appeared on the table in the shape of three decanters. Vigna d´Alceo is, as Sammarco, almost all about Cabernet Sauvignon but here the rest is Petit Verdot.
1996 Vigna d´Alceo
I tasted this, the debut vintage of d´Alceo, this summer, and was not that impressed. This bottle was better, even though it had to sit in the shadow of the masterpiece that is the 1999 (see below).
The nose is tight and fairly intense with notes of sweet/sour black cherries, black currants, gravel and a touch of coconut flakes. Rather dense. A fine warmth.
The taste is broad and ripe with warm black fruit, some unresolved tannins and notes of warm gravel, tobacco ashes and black currants leaves. A long, structured finish that ends a tad foursquare. Again, better than the previous bottle but the character is that of a slightly grumpy one.
89p   (tasted 2015/01)


1997 Vigna d´Alceo
Corked #¤%&¤#"#¤&!!!! Two bottles corked out of seven  - that is not a great batting average for Castello dei Rampolla...

1999 Vigna d´Alceo
This almost perfect specimen showcases a gorgeous nose with notes of ripe black currants, hard cherry candy, violets, forest floor, rosemary and a hint of a Cohiba cigar, that is being smoked in a distance. Utterly captivating, deep, layered and refined. Pure pleasure.
The taste is, as boring it may sound, the proverbial "iron fist in a velvet glove". It has muscles and backbone, all wrapped in sweet black currant fruit and sandy tannins. Additional notes of forest floor, liquorice, warm tiles and rosemary. The finish is over one minute long and is beautifully balanced. No need to hurry an drink any remaining bottles, this will go on for many years. A real treat.
99p   (tasted 2015/01)



1997 Sassicaia
This was kindly opened as a replacement for the corked 97 d´Alceo. I have been fortunate to taste this four times over the last couple of years and it has behaved great every times (note - this is NOT a 87p wine...).
The nose is a tad mature, deep and intoxicating with notes of red and black currants, leather, tobacco, dried herbs and forest floor. With air there is a hint of green peppers, leading us to guess Bordeaux before the bottle is revealed. Very, very good.
The taste is expressive and taut with notes of black currants, freshly grounded coffee, leather, forest floor and expensive leather. A long, finely tuned finish with lots of life still. This is really fine.
94p   (tasted 2015/01)

Then it was time for liquid desserts!
2008 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese Auction, Willi Schaefer
A young, sprightly nose with gorgeous notes of grey pears, lemon and lime peel, oyster shells, white peaches and boatloads of sweet minerals. Upfront, but with a great depth and focus.
The taste is pure and fresh as a mountain river with notes of sweet lime, flint, salt covered rocks, white peaches and grey pears. The acidity is crystal clear and just stunning. The finish goes on and on and on. A really, really fine bottle of Riesling.
95p   (tasted 2015/01)


2006 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Auslese Goldcap, Dönnhoff
It was interesting to get to taste these three different Goldcap wines from Dönnhoff, all from the same vintage. The Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube was the lightest one on the nose but still showed nice aromas of peaches, rubber, warm grass and wet asphalt.
The taste is medium sweet with a great concentration and notes of white flowers, apricots, blood oranges and grass. A very fine acidity. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2015/01)

2006 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese Goldcap, Dönnhoff
The Brücke was my favourite, and the nose with scents of peaches, diesel, vanilla ice cream and a touch banana peel oozed up from the glass. Lots and lots of sweet minerals. Very deep.
The taste is a lection in purity and class with notes of white flowers, grapefruit, crushed slate and a hint of a vanilla pod. A lot of salty rocks in the long, long finish. A fine cleansing acidity. Great!
94p   (tasted 2015/01)

2006 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese Goldcap, Dönnhoff
The Hermannshöhle is the most restrained of the three. The nose is cool and elegant and displays notes of oranges, white peaches, sweet minerals and a touch of band aid.
The taste is also restrained but beneath the surface there is a sweet, laser focused fruit with notes of grapefruit, yellow beets, sugared lemon cream and lavender honey. The acidity is the highest of the three. Very, very long. I would venture that this has a very long life ahead of itself.
93p   (tasted 2015/01)

Friday, 16 January 2015

2012 Bourgogne, Henri Boillot

With a creamy fish soup this generic white Burgundy from Henri Boillot worked wonders.

2012 Bourgogne, Henri Boillot
After some air gently aromas of dried apricots, candle grease, lemon cream and cap gun smoke arises from the glass. Very good. Soft, nice and with a fine core of sweet yellow fruit, and with a fine nerve. Young.
The taste is young, creamy and gulpable with notes of flint, white peaches, some dried pine apples and warm gravel. The acidity is not that high but compliment the fruit perfectly. A medium long finish that ends bone dry. I want to take another sip right away. Very good and I will bet it will get even better with 2-3 years in the cellar.
88p   (tasted 2015/01)

Thursday, 15 January 2015

1990 Château Le Castelot, St Emilion

Sometimes you get lucky. I bought a parcel a while back of minor Bordeaux bottles from the great vintage 1990. The first was Château Dauzac, which I knew of.
This estate I knew nothing about.
Apparently it consists of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
It will be interesting to see how the rest of the bottles will turn out...

1990 Château Le Castelot
It opens a bit funky but with some air it evolves in the glass into a mature, fairly elegant, cool nose with notes of caramelized red currants, some dried plums, sugared coffee, old leather and a fine soapy note. Not that much depth but a fine character. Very good.
The taste is mature and tight with notes of mocha, red currants, red cherries, leather and grounded coffee powder. A medium long, fine finish. It actually evolves all night and should have been decanted for 2-3 hours. Mature but not on the downhill slope.
And the horror! I paired it when some home made pizza with truffle salami, and guess what - it worked really well!
86p   (tasted 2015/01)

Sunday, 11 January 2015

A Bottle Of Bubbly - 2000 Blanc de Blancs, José Michel

Sometimes you just need a glass or two or more....of Champagne. As the other day when I opened this.

2000 Blanc de Blancs, José Michel
A still young, steely, sprightly nose with notes of lemon peel, white peaches, lemon candy and crushed flint. With some air it becomes softer with some lemon sponge cake notes. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and fresh with a fine acidity and notes of lemon cream, crushed seas shells, fresh ginger, minerals and a tiny amount of cigarette ashes. A medium long, fine finish. More structured than outgoing. This is very good and has many more years to go. It kept well in the fridge and was thoroughly enjoyed over three days.
90p   (tasted 2015/01)