To be honest, I did not have any higher expectations on this bottle. A 36 year old Premier Cru from a passable vintage. The bottle looked fine though, the level was perfect for the age and I have had some good bottles from Louis Michel before. So I held my fingers crossed and pulled the cork...
1979 Chablis 1er Cru Montmain, Louis Michel
The first couple of minutes it is quite muted but then, like a caterpillar turning into a butterfly, it blossoms in the glass. The nose is beautiful with notes of salt stained rocks, lemon peel, dry nuts, white currants and a hint of band aid. Medium deep. It has a wonderful balance and intensity.
The taste is cool and taut with some signs of maturity and notes of dried peaches, nuts, oyster shells and that salty tang that fine Chablis can have. A medium long, finely tuned finish. I guess this has, even though it still feels rather youngish, started it downward slope. I am glad I caught it in time.
91p (tasted 2015/01)
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