Sunday 3 February 2013

In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter XIV

Time again for another Brunello trio - this time from the heralded vintage of 1990, which the Consorzio gives 5 stars.

1990 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia, Lisini
A cool, elegant, mature nose with soft notes of ripe black cherries, tobacco, violets, toasted almonds and some nice rosemary notes. This is on the verge of being fully mature. Very, very good.
The taste is big, intense and full of sweet, harmonious fruit with notes of black cherries, dark chocolate, hard cherry candy and some bonfire notes. The tannins have become velvety with age. A long, nice, fresh finish. This is really for drinking now, even though you could save it for 5+ years, but why? It won´t get any better. Although a very fine bottle of wine, the 1995 Ugolaia was even better.
91p   (tasted 2013/01)

1990 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Poggione
A fine, mature, round nose with lovely laidback notes of red currants, beet, hard cherry candy, rosehips, thyme and autumn leaves. Fully mature, sweet and fine. This has aged well.
The taste is in that fine evolving stage where the sweetness of the fruit has began to subdue, the tannins have melted and there is a dry streak appearing in the end of the finish. Lovely to sit and sip this one. Notes of red currants, violets, gravel and rosehips. A long, fine finish. Could surely survive another 5+ years, like the Ugolaia above, but then again why? It is perfect now. Here is two other vintages of Il Poggione, previously tasted.
91p   (tasted 2013/01)

1990 Brunello di Montalcino, Valdicava
Well, well, well, the 93 Salvioni has been the best Brunello tasted so far, but here is a strong contender to that title. The nose is a wine lovers wet dream - the fruit is astonishing in its purity, sweetness and focus and the additional notes of tobacco, fresh herbs, violets, dried flowers and warm gravel makes my toes curl... Sooo beautiful!
When the nose is so great, I am almost nervous to take a sip - what if the taste is a let down? No worries here, the sweet fruit just flows over the tongue and the tannins, polished with age but still firm, cleans the mouth effective.Gorgeous notes of ripe red cherries, tobacco, violets, rose petals and Tuscan gravel. The length is counted in minutes. Just magnificent! There is a new No 1!
97p   (tasted 2013/01)


  1. Hi Joakim

    Very interesting reading, as i am in the process of tasting
    Rosso di Montalcino
    Have just bought Valdicava 2009 and Lisini 2010 among others
    so will be interesting to compare against your tasting notes, and yes...i do know that is not the same level as the Brunello's :-)

    Kindly regards

    1. Hi Flemming,
      and thanks! That sounds interesting, the few I have tasted have been great value. Maybe a upcoming project for me too...:-)

  2. Lovely stuff! I have been a bit negative towards Valdicava but after this I definitely have to try some older bottles!

    1. Thanks! I have only tasted three vintage of Valdicava - the 1995 - - which I thought was great and the 1998 - - which was in a awkward stage when I tasted it, but seemed to have potential.
      But the 1990, ooh boy! :-)

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