Tuesday 10 September 2019

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visits To Palladino & Ettore Germano


I spent the first day solely in Serralunga, with five estate visits and lunch at Centro Storico. A report from the three first visits can be found here.

Centro Storico
You must always visit Ciccio, that is the law! Compared to ten years ago, you now have to book in advance in order to get a table, especially in the busy seasons. I had done that so a table was ready and Ciccio poured me a glass of bubbly to get lunch started!


A new producer for me - yummy!



2016 Langhe Nebbiolo from Giovanni Rosso - great juice!



The heresy! :-) While having lunch, Giacomo Conterno showed up with a friend. They generously offered me a glass of this Burgundy - very young, with a kiss of oak on the nose, on the palate rich, ripe Pinot fruit 


Palladino
Piero Palladino bought this estate in 1974 and entrusted its managent to his cousin Maurilio. 45 years later I met up with Maurilio´s granddaughter Veronica who showed me the cellar and poured these fine wines.


2016 Barbera d´Alba Superiore Bricco delle Olive
A deep, upfront, juicy nose with notes of ripe raspberries, Finnish licorice, warm earth and fir wood. An elegant warmth. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of moist earth, some blackberries, tobacco and tiles. Long. A very fine structure. I would venture that the 2017 could be something else.
91p   (tasted 2019/08)


2017 Nebbiolo d´Alba
A fine, warm, spicy nose with notes of iron, ripe cherries, rosehips and black olives, Very, very good.
The taste is tight and fairly concentrated with notes of bakelite, black cherries and salt licorice. Backward, needs time. Long. Very fine.
90p   (tasted 2019/08)

2015 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga
A very fine, classic nose with notes of rosehips, hard cherry candy, licorice and forest floor. Even elegant. Deep. Lovely.
The taste is taut and fine with notes of sweet/sour cherries, licorice, mushrooms and minerals. Silky tannins. Long and fine. 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2019/08)


2015 Barolo Parafada
The Parafada showcases a deep, beautiful nose with notes of Christmas spices, rose petals, ripe red cherries and a flowery perfumed scent. Really fine.
The taste is tight and structured with notes of red cherries, chrushed rocks, spices and rosehip. Handsome tannins. Very long. 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2019/08)


2015 Barolo Ornato
The Ornato displays a deep, tight, structured nose with notes of asphalt, rowan berries, beet root and herbs. Backward. Some furniture polish after a while. Very deep.
The taste is rich and concentrated with notes of dry licorice, dried cherries, tobacco and herbs. Chewable tannins. Very long. Very fine caged fruit. 10+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/08)

2013 Barolo Riserva San Bernardo
Another stunner from the great vintage of 2013. The nose soars up from the glass with notes of dried up strawberry jam, dried flowers, ceps and spices. Refined and lovely.
The taste is solid and multi layered with notes of dried strawberries, spices, rose water and mushrooms. Very long and intense. Great wine. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2019/08)



Ettore Germano
The last visit on my first day. I thought I should have plenty of time when finishing this visit before I had to drive up to La Coccinella for dinner.
Well, 21 wines later, straight up to Serravalle!
This is and old family owned estate, started in 1856. For years and years the family sold the grapes and made wine for their own consumption. Sergio convinced this father to start bottling wines, the first Barolo vintage in 1987, and since 1993 they no longer sell any grapes but produce a range of very fine wines.
Sergio spent over two hours with me, pouring delicate wines, explaining his visions and eager to find out what I thought - in all a memorable visit!


I offered to take this with me to make some space in the cellar...


2016 Rosanna Rosé Extra Brut
This 100% Nebbiolo bubbly offers up fresh, lively nose with notes of wild strawberries, birch leaves and almonds.
The taste is dry and fine with notes of dried strawberries, gravel and hints of lavender soap. Very good. 3 gr.
87p   (tasted 2019/08)


2015 Alta Langha Extra Brut
This high altitude Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend has a pure, chalky nose with notes of lemon peel, white currants and gravel. Very fine.
The taste is energetic and fresh with notes of chalk, red currants and smoke. A very fine acidity. A low key intensity. This is really fine. 1 gr.
91p   (tasted 2019/08)

2018 Langhe Chardonnay
A nice, open nose with notes of butter cookies, yellow apples and hints of coconut. Very good.
The taste is stony and clean with notes of lemon cream, dry fudge and wet stones. A good acidity.
87p   (tasted 2019/08)


2016 Binel
A blend of 95% Chardonnay and 5% Riesling, and when I ask Sergio what he wants from the Riesling in the blend, the obvious answer is - acidity. The nose is medium deep with fine notes of fried nuts, butter cookies and hints of ripe pears. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and finely textured with notes of candied lemons, sage, chrushed rocks and smoke. Long. A very good acidity.
89p   (tasted 2019/08)

2008 Binel
Sergio then fetched a magnum of 08 Binel that had been opened three days ago. The nose displays more mature features but is still very fresh, with notes of apricots, orange peel and earth. Very fine.
The taste is deep and multi layered with notes of lemon cream, assorted nuts and smoke. A very fine structure. Long and lovely.
91p   (tasted 2019/08)


2018 Langhe Nascetta
With the tell tale nose of Nascetta, Sergio´s version offers up grass, white pepper and spices on the nose. Very, very good.
The taste is fresh and spicy with notes of white pepper, summer flowers and grass. A fine acidity. Crisp.
88p   (tasted 2019/08)

2017 Hérzu
Sergio has made this Langhe Riesling since 2005. The 17 has a fine, low key nose with notes of rubber, ripening pears and minerals. A hint of a petrol station in a distance.
The taste is young, tight and racy with notes of grey pears, slate and fine soap. A long finish with a fine acidity.
88p   (tasted 2019/08)


2016 Hérzu
The 16 Hérzu is even better with a high, lemony nose with additional notes of tangerines, diesel and smoke. Very fine.
The taste is pure and delicate with notes of lemon peel, slate, dried summer flowers and sweet minerals. Very long and fine.
91p   (tasted 2019/08)

2018 Hérzu
The youngest of the Hérzu´s has a young, fresh nose with notes of grass, birch leaves and gremolata. Very, very good.
The taste is high and refined with notes of grass, minerals, birch sap and lime peel. A very fine acidity. Needs a couple of years in the cellar
89p   (tasted 2019/08)

2018 Barbera d´Alba
A upfront and juicy nose with a fine mix of raspberries and blueberries alongside notes of licorice and warm herbs.
The taste is fruity and direct with notes of blueberry pie, licorice, fir and undergrowth. A fine finish with a very good acidity.
88p   (tasted 2019/08)


2016 Barbera d´Alba Superiore Della Madre
From 45 year old vines, this a serious Barbera, with a deep, extrovert nose with notes of Finnish licorice, wild raspberries, forest floor and veal stock. Very deep and fine.
The taste is rich and concentrated with notes of licore, ripe raspberries, violets and a hint of mint. Very long and finely structured. 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2019/08)

2018 Langhe Nebbiolo
Light and fresh with notes of herbs, rhubarb, red currants and gravel. Very good.
The taste is fresh and light peppery with notes of rosehips, cranberries and gravel. Easy drinking and very nice.
86p   (tasted 2019/08)



2015 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga
The blend of this Normale is 60% Cerretta, 30% Prapó and 10% Lazzarito. The nose is deep and spicy with notes of hard cherry candy, herbs, paint and rosehips. Firm and fine.
The taste is spicy and fine with notes of ripe cherries, violets and asphalt. A fine structure. 4+ years.
90p   (tasted 2019/08)

2014 Barolo Prapó
A refined, light nose with fine notes of dried strawberries, earth and fine balsamic aromas. A fine dryness.
The taste is medium bodied and balanced with notes of balsamic marinated strawberries, earth and dried flowers. For drinking now and the coming 5+ years.
91p   (tasted 2019/08)


2014 Barolo Cerretta
A deep, old school nose with notes of damp earth, dog fur, Christmas spices and red cherries. Very fine in a restrained way.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of earth, dried cherries, candle-grease and herbs. Very long and with a fine intensity. 4+ years.
92p   (tasted 2019/08)

2015 Barolo Prapó
A cool, tight, energetic nose with notes of ripe lingonberries, warm tiles, earth and rosehips. Very, very good. A fine laid back warmth.
The taste is multi layered and seedy with notes of violets, hard cherry candy and minerals. Very long and structured. Really fine. 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/08)


2015 Barolo Cerretta
The 15 Cerretta is a gem. The nose is laid back, concentrated and high with notes of ripe cherries, furniture polish, violets and asphalt. Very pure and fine.
The taste is handsome, pure and vigorous with notes of perfect cherries, some tobacco, tiles and rosehips. Sweet tannins. Long and lovely. 8+ years.
95p   (tasted 2019/08)

2015 Barolo Vignarionda
Atto A Dare - Not Really Ready. From 4 years old vines, this shows lots of promise for vintages ahead. The nose is deep and tight with notes of red plums, cool tobacco and a hint of mint. Very fine.
The taste is seedy and fine with notes of red currants, bakelite, tobacco and ripe flowers. A very fine balance. Very long. 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/08)



2014 Langhe Nebbiolo VR
Not really a Vignarionda, but the VR on the label gives away the origin of the grapes. The nose is medium deep, finely focused with notes of red currants, dry tobacco, a hint of mint and gravel.
The taste is dry and tight with notes of red currants, almond paste, herbs and bakelite. Long and fine. For drinking now and the coming 4+ years.
90p   (tasted 2019/08)

2012 Barolo Riserva Lazzarito
From 1 ha, the Lazzarito in 2012 is a stunner. The nose is very deep, spicy and beautiful with notes of ripe, sweet black fruit, old tobacco, model clay and fried herbs. A lovely laid back sweetness. Very fine.
The taste is refined and racy with notes of sour/sweet cherries, autumn leaves, tobacco and dried up balsamic vinegar. Very long, rich and refined.
95p   (tasted 2019/08)


2013 Barolo Riserva Lazzarito
The 13 Riserva is more restrained and locked in, compared to the 2012. The nose is racy and refined with notes of black cherries, cool tobacco, earth and fresh herbs. Low keyed and lovely.
The taste is elegant and fine with notes of ripening cherries, asphalt, rosehips and bay leaves. A long, structured finish. Needs plenty of time, 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/08)


3 comments:

  1. When you say Giacomo Conterno showed up, don't you mean Roberto Conterno?

    ReplyDelete