Wednesday, 23 January 2013

Mini Vertical of Graham´s Vintage Port - 1970, 1977, 1980 and 1991


In our monthly tasting group the turned had come to Göran, who presented us with a very interesting line up.

First up was a yellow coloured wine that stood out next to the others.
2003 Moscatel de Setubal Domingos Soares Franco, Jose Marie da Fonseca
This had a yummy, upfront nose with notes of candied lemons, ointment, acetone, lemon fudge and a touch of cinnamon. Not that deep and complex but oh so delightful.
The taste is big, sweet and gulpable with lovely note of sweet lemons, apricot marmelade, lavender honey and some saffron notes. Medium long, sweet finish. Again, not heaps of complexity but lip smacking good.
I actually got Setubal right but I was some decades from the correct age...
87p   (tasted 2013/01)


And then we were faced with four glasses of what seemed to be some kind of port wine (all tasted double blind). We all gravitated towards vintage port, single quintas, LBV, but didn´t get that is was the same producer, and the age guesses we should discuss no further...
All were decanted three hours before we tasted them.

1991 Graham´s Vintage Port
A dark, restrained, powerful nose with notes of dark chocolate, toasted almonds, bee wax, some rubbery notes and nutmeg. Very interesting and still very young. Very deep.
The taste is big, intense and tight with lots of raisiny sweetness and notes of dark chocolate, nougat and nuts en masse. A long, broad, good finish with a fine structure. Very, very good. This needs time, I would say 10+ years, even 20.
91p   (tasted 2013/01)


1980 Graham´s Vintage Port
A deep, satisfying, sweet and elegant nose with notes of dades, green raisins, orange chocolate, dark chocolate and dried summer flowers. Really fine. It has depth, power and grace. And on its way to maturity.
The taste is tighter than the nose leads on, with intense notes of toasted almonds, dark chocolate, figs and some blackberry notes. A lot of backbone still. This is more mature than the 91 but could still use 10 years in the cellar.
93p   (tasted 2013/01)


1970 Graham´s Vintage Port
The first sniff felt fine but there was a tiny wiff of moist cardboard boxes alongside the sweet fruit. And sorry to say, that kept evolving all evening. Corked - too bad, it felt like there was a really fine wine here.
No rating   (tasted 2013/01)


1977 Grahams´s Vintage Port
A sweet, intense, deep nose with lovely notes of blackberries, raisins, toasted almonds, chocolate covered nuts, wet earth and balsa wood. Very, very good. But this feels younger than the 80 and almost as young as the 91. When will this be mature?
And the taste feels even younger with loads of stunningly sweet, intense, broad black fruit together with notes of orange peel, sweet licorice, figs and dark chocolate. A very, very long, fresh finish. My last words in the tasting note (before I knew what it was) was "has potential"...
Give this baby 10+ years more years.
92p   (tasted 2013/01)

A great line up and really interesting to taste. And to answer Niklas question - no, you shouldn´t, not if you like mature port anyway and are older than 20...

Monday, 21 January 2013

In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter XII

In Chapter II I tasted the 1998 Brunello from Tenuta Caparzo and liked it very much. It was then with great expectations that I opened these two bottles. But sorry to say, I was a bit let down. Both were good bottles of wine, but neither could live up to the 98 Brunello.

1990 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Tenuta Caparzo
The Riserva spends three years on french barriques and bigger casks of 30 hl. According to their website the Riserva is destined to "un pubblico di appassionati particolarmente preparati ed attenti". I don´t know if I fit that description, because I find I good wine in this bottle but not exceptional.
The nose is deep, mature and round with notes of dried cherries, burning autumn leaves, warm earth, cold coffee and some meaty notes. A touch foursquare. But deep.
The taste is tight, big and seedy with notes of cooked cherries with a hint vanilla, violets, gravel and autumn leaves. The tannins are big and brawny. The finish is long, warm and ends dry. With food its fine but on its own the wood tannins are to noticable. And it will only become more dry so drink it if you have any.
85p   (tasted 2013/01)

2000 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa, Tenuta Caparzo
The La Casa plot is situated on the hill of Montosoli. It gets 12 months on new french barriques and then 18-24 months on french 30 hl barrels.
The nose is warm, fine and deep with notes of maraschino cherries, dark chocolate, warm thyme, tobacco and meat stock. There is a noticable warmth in the wine, but it keeps it on the right side of things.
The taste is big, tight and mouthfilling with notes of chocolate covered cherries, meat stock, warm herbs, tobacco and some raisins. A long, warm finish. This is better than the 90, it has more stuffing and I would bet that it could evolve into something even nicer in 3-5 years time.
88p   (tasted 2013/01)

Sunday, 20 January 2013

Some Beautiful Labels

Last label post was all about Bordeaux. This time I have walked down memory lane with some beautiful labels from Barolo. I can almost taste some of those wines when I drool over the labels...









Friday, 18 January 2013

Friday Dinner Barolo - 1997 Vigna Enrico VI, Cordero di Montezemolo

On returning home this evening I immediately pulled the cork. Poured straight into Riedel Extreme Pinot/Nebbiolo glass - aaaaah...

1997 Barolo Vigna Enrico VI, Cordero di Montezemolo
This Barolo comes from a 2 hectare plot in the Villero vineyard in Castiglione Falletto.
Just opened it oozes of a moist mushroom forest - lovely! With air fine notes of red currants, dried strawberries, rosehip, licorice, hard cherry candy and red beets emerge. The empty glass is all about fresh rose petals - very intense! Not a hint of the well known 97 heat on the nose.
The taste is tight, fresh and very coherent with notes of red currants and cherries, mushroom, rosehip, dry leather and a hint of cold coffe. A very long, finely tuned, elegant finish. The well polished tannins creeps up in the end of the finish. This is really fine. Given this blind I would have guessed a fine 96. And with a grilled steak with some mushrooms and a Marsala sauce - oooh boy!
92p   (tasted 2013/01)

Read more about Cordero di Montezemolo here.

Thursday, 17 January 2013

In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter XI

These notes are a follow up from the post on the 1988 Ottantotto from Argiano, tasted last friday, aka the Argioano weekend! The following day I opened the two Brunello´s I mentioned in the post.
Info about Argiano here.

1979 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Argiano
This may have spent some of its life on a little too warm place. It is still fine and drinking really well with the food, but it is not as good as I suppose it could be. When I mailed Argiano about the Ottantotto I mentioned that I would open these two bottles the day after, and they described the 1979 Brunello as "tasting as nectar".
The nose is big, ripe and (over)mature with notes of dried cherries, orange peel, green raisins, old leather, meat stock and balsamic notes. This has the signs of an otherwise fine wine but that have been stoored too warm.
The taste is fresher and tighter than the nose with notes of ripe cherries, dark chocolate, autumn leaves, old leather and violets. A long, warm, sweet finish. A good weight to the taste. Very fine with the food. Much better than the nose. Would love to try another bottle!
85p   (tasted 2013/01)

The 1979 to the left and the 1985 to the right

1985 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Argiano
This on the other hand is in a perfect place this evening. Mature, sweet, hedonistic but with just the right amount of firm backbone.
A deep, profound, cool nose with notes of red and black cherries, red currants, tobacco, violets, mushroom forest and that stunning Tuscan gravel road scent. Very deep and just delightful!
The taste could be described as Argiano described the 1979, as nectar. It is tight, it is sweet, it is hedonism in a glass. Gorgeous notes of perfectly ripe cherries, orange peel, warm herbs, violets and a touch of chocolate. The finish is all about velvet until the polished tannins take hold of the last tail of the finish. Gorgeous stuff! For drinking now and the coming 5-8 years.
94p   (tasted 2013/01)

Had no luck/skill with the corks...

Wednesday, 16 January 2013

2007 Fontalloro

Drank this the other day with a herb filled chicken, pappardelle and a tomato sauce. Read more about Fontalloro and Felsina here.

2007 Fontalloro, Fèlsina
A very young, seedy nose that acts a little bit rowdy at first. But with an hour in the decanter there is fine notes of red cherries, rosehips, rosemary, balsa wood and Tuscan gravel that emerges from the glass. There is a whiff of saw dust here and there, probably from the barriques where it has spent somewhere in betweeen 18-22 months. But that will passa away with a few years in the cellar. The 1997 was just about pure Sangiovese fruit at 15 years of age.
The taste is young, tight and fresh with notes of juicy cherry fruit with some new leather, violet tablets, warm herbs, gravel and balsa wood tucked in. The tannins are a bit of a brute but manage to come acroos as a very polished brute. The finish is long, fresh and and ends dry. With food it behaves excellent but on its one it is too young for real enjoyment. This needs 3+ years in the cellar.
89p   (tasted 2013/01)

Sunday, 13 January 2013

Argiano Weekend - 1988 Ottantotto

It became a real Argiano weekend. First out on friday was this super tuscan wine, with an easy name, if you can rememeber the vintage, you can remember the name, and the other way around...

I have searched the web and emailed Argiano (but that was on friday evening so they haven´t had time to answer yet), but I have come up short to the background of this wine, the grapes and so forth. The label says Vino da Tavolo.
 I would guess from the nose and taste that it is at least 50% Cabernet and that it has seen some new barriques during its upbringing.
If I get a reply from Argiano, I will update this post with the info. Or if someone else knows?
Update: I got a nice mail from Argiano. It seems that the Ottantotto is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese and that it spent 14 months in new casks.

I followed up this wine with two bottles of Argiano´s Brunello Riserva - the 1979 and 1985 - on saturday, will be back with a special post on those.
And then I managed to buy Argiano´s 2006 Brunello. In short - a real Argiano weekend!

1988 Ottantotto, Argiano
A big, open, mature nose with velvety, sweet, pure cherry fruit combined with notes of tobacco, hard cherry candy, thyme, blueberry pie, autumn leaves and moist earth. Very deep and fine. This is perfectly mature on the nose. Chocolate covered cherries after a while, and cold coffe. The nose is stunning.
The taste is mature, round and sweet but have enough backbone to offer some resistance. Lovely notes of red cherry fruit, red and black currants, sweet tobacco, licorice and a glimpse of mint. The finish is long, soft and fine. The abraded tannins shows upp in the end of the finish. Perfect to drink right now. Very, very yummy.
93p   (tasted 2013/01)

Saturday, 12 January 2013

The Vigorello Hunt - An Update


It was some time since I got hold of a bottle of Vigorello to add to the line up, but the other day a bottle of 1990 arrived.

Now there are eight...

Earlier posts here and here.

Wednesday, 9 January 2013

Drinking Tonight - 2009 Les Fontanilles

To go along a big bowl of pasta with thinly sliced veal in a mustard, garlic and cream sauce, I feared that this young Carignan, Syrah, Cinsault and Grenache blend would be somewhat overpowering, but it managed to complement the rather soft flavours of the pasta really well. And it was no problem finishing the bottle on its own when the dinner was over...

This new kid on the block is a blend of the grapes mentioned above from Minervois by, as they state on the website - "two pairs of (experienced) hands" - those of Anne Gros and Jean-Paul Tollot from Burgundy. This 2009 is only the second vintage. Read more here.

2009 Les Fontanilles, Domaine Anne Gros & Jean-Paul Tollot
A young, fresh, meaty nose with notes of ripe bluberries, fried herbs, rosemary, ginger bread, violets and some nice earthy aromas. Young and a bit ungainly but there is lots of quality here. Even elegance.
The taste is big, pure and steady with notes of rasberries and blueberries intermingled with sweet licorice, dark chocolate, violets and lots of fresh herbs. A long, fine, peppery finish. Still young, this could use 3-5 years in the cellar. But a fine mouthful of southern France!
90p   (tasted 2013/01)

Tuesday, 8 January 2013

In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter X


This is an old estate in Montalcino, going back to the 17th century, when it was owned by countesses, passed down from generation to generation.
Then a big time jump, to 1985 when the then estate manager Giuseppe Bianchini took over the estate. He was the one that started to bottle the Pianrosso, from a 12 hectar vineyard, separately and the 1988 below was one of the first vintages.
More info here - http://www.ciaccipiccolomini.com/

2003 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso, Ciacci Piccolomini d´Aragona
A upfront, warm, sweet nose with notes of cherry pie, violet pastills, leather, balsa wood, grounded coffee and a fine note of warm summer flowers. There is a lot of warmth here, but it manages to keep it on the right side of things. Very good.
The taste is big, dense and sweet with notes of cherry liqueur, warm herbs, violets, licorice, chocolate covered cherries and a warm gravel road. The finish is long, warm and ripe. The tannins shows upp in the finish and makes a nice mark of themselves. I bet this could improve with 3-5 years in the cellar to get rid of some of the puppy fat.
90p   (tasted 2012/12)

1988 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso, Ciacci Piccolomini d´Aragona
A deep, mature, fine nose with notes of dried red cherries and lingonberries, violets, pipe tobacco, rose petals, warm herbs and some stable notes. A lovely maturity; sweet, round and fine.
The taste is mature, warm and with the right amount of stringency between the matured sweet fruit and the dusty mature tannins. A big, sweet cherry fruit fills the mouth with additional notes of autumn leaves, old chocolate, violets and the dust from a Tuscan gravel road. A lovely warmth in the finish. In a perfect place now, this isn´t for keeping longer.
91p   (tasted 2012/12)



The bottle below was tasted in Como, Italy during the summer of 2012.
2001 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso, Ciacci Piccolomini d´Aragona
A big, complex, hauntingly beautiful nose with notes of ripe red cherries, warm herbs, tobacco, almonds and veal meat. Very, very deep. This has started to mature and is full of vigour and charm. Just stunning.
The taste is big, powerful and intense with gorgeous notes of sweet and sour cherries, licorice, herbs, chocolate covered cherries and violets. A wonderful sweetness. The finish is long, warm with finely polished tannins. This is a delicious wine but I guess it can become even more stunning in 3-5 years time. At night, sitting on a restaurants porch, looking out over lake Como and drinking this, I may have added one point for the ambience...:-)
94p   (tasted 2012/07)

Monday, 7 January 2013

The Perfect Ones - Part 18

In 1995, when this bottle was tasted, Bodegas Osborne bottled 250 bottles/year of this nectar from a solera that then was an average of 36 year. The solera was started in 1883!
As I have said before, I drink Sherry to seldom. Maybe a future project...

NV Oloroso Amoroso Solera Alonso El Sabio, Bodegas Osborne
I usually don´t mention the colour of the wine but on this one I have especially noted the glorious amber in the glass. The nose just explodes from the glass with stunning notes of pan fried nuts, dried apples, almond paste, figs, dades, green raisins, milk chocolate, and a lovingly perfumed note. Deep, deep, deep. Intoxicating and just glorious.
The taste is big, dense and at the same time light and elegant, with notes of nuts, figs, chocolate, warm herbs, mushroom cream, and a hint of saffron. A very long, intense, brilliant finish with a salt/sweet note that is to die for. Perfect in every sense of the word.
100p   (tasted 1995/02)

Saturday, 5 January 2013

The Ten Most Memorable Wines of 2012

Once again - being forced (by myself, but still...) to choose only ten bottles that has shined the most under 2012 is not an easy task. It has been a great year, a lot of interesting tastings and fine bottles over dinner and with friends. But the following ten bottles have made a special mark in my memory.
Here they are, in vintage order.
A toast for an equally great 2013!

1879 Rare Sercial, Justino Henriques
I had the good fortune to taste not just one but two pre 1900 Madeira wines this year. The 1870 Malmsey Reserve, Vinhos da Madeira Lda was really stunning but this out of the world wine eclipsed it. It was served with a consomme with chanterelles and sweetbread at a tasting dinner with
old Pommards. Madeira, and especially these old wines, is one of the greatest wines on earth.
99p   (tasted 2012/11)


1982 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc, Paolo Scavino
Several bottles at my tasting dinner with Bric dël Fiasc could have made this list, the 1985, 1990, 1996 or the 1999. But there were one bottle that towered over the rest. The perfect combination of maturity, power, complexity and charm. Having never tasted the 1982 before it was a moment of utter enjoyment.
98p   (tasted 2012/02)


1983 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Gran Riserva, Giuseppe Quintarelli
Since my presentation on the front page indicates that Amarone isn´t my favourite type of fermented grape juice, it could be seen as strange that a Veneto wine could make this list. But I can only follow my taste buds, and this bottle was, as I put it in the tasting note , the Muhammed Ali of wines - light as a feather and stung like a bee. This could sting me any time! Thanks Jörgen!
98p   (tasted 2012/08)

1993 Brunello di Montalcino Cerbaiola, Salvioni
The beginning of the Brunello project have been fascinating. So far 27 bottles tasted. And there will be more - opened two more for tonight... But over to the biggest eye opener so far, the 1993 Brunello from Salvioni. A wine that had complexity and hedonism from start to finish and urged me to get hold of more vintages, more notes from Salvioni to follow...
96p   (tasted 2012/10)


1997 Flaccianello, Fontodi
A perennial favourite of mine, tasted 8 times, always scoring it between 95-98p. This time it came up as the last wine in the fourth fligth of our massive tasting of 1997 Tuscans. And it showed its character of the proverbial "iron fist in a velvet glove", and was for me, the star of the whole tasting. Magnificent stuff!
98p   (tasted 2012/11)

2002 Clos de Coulée de Serrant, N. Joly
The last day of the year this almost perfect wine emerged. Coulée de Serrant have been a hit or miss over the years. I still remember the 1982 tasted over 20 years ago as one of the perfect wines, but there has been many that have been weird, at best. But this bottle hit all my sweet spots, and I have to get some bottles! Thanks Nenad!
98p   (tasted 2012/12)


2007 Varner Home Block Spring Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay
Even when the bottle was revealed, I wouldn´t believe it - this had to be a great white Burgundy! But it wasn´t, but it was one of the greatest California chardonnay I have ever tasted. And I had the good fortune to taste a bottle of 2009 Spring Ridge Vineyard Amphitheater Block later during 2012, which also was a stunning bottle of chardonnay. Thanks Miran!
96p   (tasted 2012/02)


2008 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard
I tasted in all five different Chassagne-Montrachet´s from Fontaine-Gagnard during 2012, four premier cru´s and the village wine, and all pleased my senses, but this bottle stood out as Grand Cru quality and was just awesome in its aristocracy.
96p   (tasted 2012/11)

2009 Batard-Montrachet, Domaine Faiveley
There were bottle after bottle with the most wonderful white and red burgundy at this tasting of Faiveley wines, but when this nectar was poured from a magnum, time just stood still. Within 6-8 years this should be a truly perfect wine.
98p   (tasted 2012/05)

2010 Rossese di Dolceaqua Posaú, Maccario Dringenberg
During the summers vacation in Liguria I discovered two things - the first was the charm of Vermentino, and the second was the really classy wines from the Rossese grape. I have promised to do a rapport of the wines I tasted, but time haven´t permitted it. But these wines really made a mark in my vinous experience and I will be back with a post on these wines soon. The one I remember the most is one of the wines from the producer Dringenberg. Full of poise, charm and gorgeous upfront fruit, this really stood out. I think I downed three bottle in a few days...
92p   (tasted 2012/07)


The Ten Most Memorable Wines of 2011 - here.

Friday, 4 January 2013

Then & Now - Château Fonroque

Since the last attempt to get to taste some mature Bordeaux didn´t work out well, I thought I´ll have another go at it.
Info about the châteaux here and here.

1959 Château Fonroque
Right out of the bottle this old gentleman shows a rather big, warm, upfront nose with notes of red currants, lingonberries, pipe tobacco, undergrowth and clean stables. With air it becomes a bit more murky with notes of resin and sweet beets. But this is holding up well and you can feel the warmth from this great vintage.
The taste is tight, mature and dry with lots of red berries and additional notes of autumn leaves, dry tobacco, warm road dust and a touch of bonfire. Medium long, fresh finish. It is not in the least to dry in the finish, which lots of wine this age tends to be. Soft and fine without heaps of complexity.
86p   (tasted 2012/12)

2009 Château Fonroque
50 years really makes a difference...:-) When poured it has a high octane, warm, outwardly nose but after a few hours in a decanter it is performing great. The nose is all about finesse and concentration with notes of sweet red currants, lingonberries and cherries with some new leather, saw dust (in a positive way), cold coffee and luxury soap thrown in. Also some sweet licorice and a touch of a Cohiba cigarr. This is really fine, but still very, very young.
The taste is young, fresh and concentrated with gorgeous notes of red currants, corinthians, lingonberries, Valrhona chocolate and really expensive leather. A long, pure and intense finish. This is really promising. I need to get some of this for the cellar! And wait 3-5 years, if I can...
92p   (tasted 2012/12)

1959 Château Fonroque

 

Thursday, 3 January 2013

New Years Eve Dinner

Some friends came over to our place, we ate some nice food and opened some great wines, and most important - had fun! :-)

2001 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Fuder 7, Fritz Haag
As a starter, while prepearing the food, this nice Riesling was opened. A fine, elegant, racy, somewhat mature nose with notes of white peaches, lemon curd, fennel, grass and white chocolate. Very fine. The hint of maturity adds to the complexity.
The taste is tight, elegant and fresh with notes of dried apricots, lemon cream, summer flowers and some gas stations notes. A fresh acidity. Long, fine and ends semi dry. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2012/12)


With the starter -  fried ricotta balls - tasting even better second time around, we opened a bottle of bubbly.
1999 Gosset Grand Millésime
A fine, fresh, deep nose with lovely notes of freshly baked bread, orange peel, cap gun smoke and lots of sweet red apples. Very yummy.
The taste is pure, deep and still young with persistent bubbles and notes of red apples, toasted bread, slate and gravel. Very long and fine. This is drinking great now but will keep for 8+ years.
92p   (tasted 2012/12)


We put forward four bottles of white wines to go with a Canapée Charlemagne. Since we bring the wines we are keen to drink, and not a set theme, it becomes a interesting array of combinations and flavours.

2001 Schönenburg Riesling, Bott-Geyl
A cool, fine, elegant nose with notes of lemon peel, dried tropical fruit, almonds and lots of sweet minerals. A laid back elegance. Very, very good.
The taste is pure, fresh and dry with notes of tangerines, lemon peel and crushed rocks. Cool and fine. A refreshing acidity. Drinking perfect now, I think, and won´t get any better.
90p   (tasted 2012/12)


2002 Clos de Coulée de Serrant, N. Joly
This is the reason why I wait to compose my list of the most memorable wines of the year to after new years eve. If I had done so before, I would have missed to add this masterpiece.
As with Coulée de Serrant it opens a bit funky and we even, for a short time, suspected it was slightly corked. But no, no, when the evening was over we has shared one of the best wines of the year.
When the nose evolves it displays notes of white pears, smoke, lobster shells, nutmeg, dried honey, minerals, just to name some of the scents. The intensity and complexity is off the charts. This is just breathtaking. So, so deep.
Could the taste match that divine nose? Oh yes! It is so intense, so pure, so perfectly composed, that I get tears in my eyes. Fascinating and intoxicating. Gorgeous notes of grilled lemons, smoke, pears, almond paste and freshly cut grass. The finish is counted in several minutes. It is still young, but boy, would I like to drink this in about 5 years time, and 10, and 15... This is what dreams, mine anyway..., are made of.
98p   (tasted 2012/12)


1996 Clos Ste Hune, Trimbach
I started to salivate when I saw this bottle hit the table. But, alas, although a fine bottle of wine, it didn´t reach the height of other vintages of Clos Ste Hune, like the 1983 or 1979, which are almost perfect wines in my view.
A deep, elegant, pure nose with notes of tangerines, almond paste, clam shells and lots of minerals. Cool and withdrawn, a bit too much I would say.
The taste is intense, tight and focused with lots of nice things going on. Notes of lemon peel, minced almonds, clams and minerals. A long, tight finish with lots of acidity. Still young. It has finesse, it has breed, but it doesn´t have much charm. Not now anyway. Maybe in 10 years time?
90p   (tasted 2012/12)

1996 Corton-Charlemagne, Bruno Clair
And you can´t eat a Canapée Charlemagne without a Charlemagne to go with it, right? A very deep, mature, lovely nose with notes of butter fried yellow apples, melted butter, pine nuts, mushroom cream and dried flowers. Very open, outwardly and luscious.
The taste is big, fresh although voluptuous and mature with notes of yellow apples, butter cookies, smoke and lobster broth. A lovely sweetness to the fruit. This is perfectly mature. After a (big) sip you just want to take another one.
94p   (tasted 2012/12)



Before the main course we had a small interlude with a Jerusalem artichoke cream with a brunoise of serrano and carrots. This dish needed some power and acidity, and the perfect match turned out to be a bottle of
1951 Fine Sercial, H. M. Borges
A deep, intense, penetrating nose with notes of salted nuts, cured ham, tea leaves, dry hay and some fine leathary notes. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, pure and semi dry with notes of dried orange peel, minced almonds, mushrooms and dry butter fudge. The finish is long and persistent. With the artichoke cream one and one became three!
89p   (tasted 2012/12)


For main course we had whole reindeer filets in a mushroom coating with oven potatoes and a red wine sauce with a hint of orange and peppar flavour. A stunning dish, if I might say so myself...:-)
We had beforehand agreed on Tuscan wines for the main course and four great bottles was suddenly on the table.

1993 Le Pergole Torte, Montevertine
A lovely, deep, mature nose with notes of chocolate covered cherries, licorice, old leather, dried flowers and a fine bonfire note. This is lovingly mature, sweet and fine.
The taste is round, mature and ripe with lots of sweet cherries and notes of autumn leaves, chocolate, dried flowers and leather. The tannins are soft but noticable. Drinking perfect now.
91p   (tasted 2012/12)

1993 Flaccianello, Fontodi
It is no surprise that one of my favourite Super Tuscans is Flaccianello, and this was my debut with the 1993 vintage. And what a wine! The nose is stunningly deep, fresh and sweet with notes of cherries, lingonberries, pipe tobacco, moist undergrowth and a Tuscan gravel road. Incredibly fresh for its age and vintage. Really stunning.
The taste is tight, intense and just lovely with sweet cherry fruit, still perky tannins and a minute long finish. Notes of black cherries, tobacco, autumn leaves, violets and letaher. So, so fresh. This is on top of its game but you could drink this with enjoyment over the next 8-10 years. Great wine!
95p   (tasted 2012/12)


2004 Saffredi, Le Pupille
A young, upfront, intense nose with notes of cherry candy, rosemary, dark chocolate, new leather and violets. Very sweet and fine, almost a caramelly tone to the fruit. Still very young.
The taste is big, sturdy and intense with notes of sweet cherries, chocolate, almond paste, licorice and new leather. A very long, tight finish that ends a bit foursquare. A very good wine that needs to settle for some years in the cellar.
90p   (tasted 2012/12)

2006 Dedicato a Walter, Poggio Al Tesoro
This 100% Cabernet Franc opens with a deep, warm, fine nose with notes of cherry pie, tobacco, warm herbs and a green peppar note, that is really nice. Fresh and fine.
The taste is tight and young and with a real grip. Notes of lingonberries, red cherries, tobacco, herbs and some mushroom notes. Still very young. It has a really likeable character with that green note that goes through the wine. This could turn out really fine 5-7 years down the line.
91p   (tasted 2012/12)

We ended the dinner part of the evening with an assortment of cheese and a bottle of port.
1964 Taylor´s Quinta de Vargellas
A mature, sweet, open and yummy nose with notes of raisins, nuts, chocolate cake and cloves. Upfront, sweet and good, but not that deep. Fully mature.
The taste is warm, seedy and sweet with notes of chocolate covered cherries, raisins, dry leather and figs. The finish is medium long and it ends semi sweet. This is nice to drink to end such an evening but it lacks in complexity, which many of the other vintages of de Vargellas have.
86p   (tasted 2012/12)


The evening ended with fireworks and the rest of the Gosset.

A Happy New Year to everyone!