Monday 21 January 2013

In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter XII

In Chapter II I tasted the 1998 Brunello from Tenuta Caparzo and liked it very much. It was then with great expectations that I opened these two bottles. But sorry to say, I was a bit let down. Both were good bottles of wine, but neither could live up to the 98 Brunello.

1990 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Tenuta Caparzo
The Riserva spends three years on french barriques and bigger casks of 30 hl. According to their website the Riserva is destined to "un pubblico di appassionati particolarmente preparati ed attenti". I don´t know if I fit that description, because I find I good wine in this bottle but not exceptional.
The nose is deep, mature and round with notes of dried cherries, burning autumn leaves, warm earth, cold coffee and some meaty notes. A touch foursquare. But deep.
The taste is tight, big and seedy with notes of cooked cherries with a hint vanilla, violets, gravel and autumn leaves. The tannins are big and brawny. The finish is long, warm and ends dry. With food its fine but on its own the wood tannins are to noticable. And it will only become more dry so drink it if you have any.
85p   (tasted 2013/01)

2000 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa, Tenuta Caparzo
The La Casa plot is situated on the hill of Montosoli. It gets 12 months on new french barriques and then 18-24 months on french 30 hl barrels.
The nose is warm, fine and deep with notes of maraschino cherries, dark chocolate, warm thyme, tobacco and meat stock. There is a noticable warmth in the wine, but it keeps it on the right side of things.
The taste is big, tight and mouthfilling with notes of chocolate covered cherries, meat stock, warm herbs, tobacco and some raisins. A long, warm finish. This is better than the 90, it has more stuffing and I would bet that it could evolve into something even nicer in 3-5 years time.
88p   (tasted 2013/01)

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