Wednesday 17 October 2012

A Montrachet Monday

Only one though, but still! How about starting a dreary autumn week with a tasting of fine white Burgundy? Thanks to Mikke we got to do just that - deeply appreciated!
Tasted double blind except for the two starter wines.

1996 Beaune Bressandes, Camille Giroud
Just to wet our appetites for more wine, we got two bottles to taste as a prelude. A somewhat stifled, low keyed nose with notes of dried strawberries, bay leaves and undergrowth. Even though its not that expressive its nice on the nose.
The taste on the other hand is foursquare, dry and a tad hollow. There is some notes of dried red fruit, earth, rosehips and bay leaves, but this has taken its first step to meeting its maker.
75p   (tasted 2012/10)

2009 Château Pédesclaux
This has obviously been raved on by Decanter, but I can´t see the fuss. The nose is young, upfront and concentrated with notes of sweet black currants, menthol, sugared coffee, dry resin and a nicely perfumed note. But the depth isn´t really there. And the fruit is of the candy kind. A fine note of roasted coffe after a while. Good.
The taste is young, tight and medium focused with good black currant fruit and notes of new leather, dark chocolate, coffe and tobacco. The tannins are young and fresh, but there is a green streak in them that I don´t fancy. A medium long finish with a nice dry ending. This could evolve into something nice, but I can´t imagine it to be in the top 2009´s! Decanter have apparently a crush on this estate, check this out for lots of information on this châteaux.
86p   (tasted 2012/10)

On to the main event - we were presented with six decanters of white wine, and I don´t think there were one single guess outside the hallowed land of Burgundy.

1992 Meursault Charmes, Roland Remoissenet
A deep, mature, fine nose with notes of dried apricots, candied lemon peel, hay, root vegetables and dry licorice. A tad withdrawn but very nice.
The taste is tight, fresh for its age and focused with notes of lemon and lime peel, minced almonds and dry fudge. A very fresh acidity. Long and fine. Mature but this still have lots of vigour.
89p   (tasted 2012/10)

1993 Le Montrachet, Remoissenet
Before the bottles are revealed and the discussion starts, we are, as usual, forced to choose our favourite. This was mine - damn my expensive taste! :-) But this got the most votes, so I´m in good company.
The nose is deep, penetrating and complex with lovely notes of lemon cream, yellow apples, fudge, freshly cut grass and almond paste. Very, very deep. This is so fine! A lovely roasted note comes out with air.
The taste is harmonious, elegant and pure with a gorgeous blend of yellow fruit - lemon, peach, grapefruit, and additional notes of matchbox, herbs, almonds and dry fudge. The finish goes on for over a minute. This is perfectly mature but will surely stay at this level for 5+ years. Great wine!
96p   (tasted 2012/10)

1996 Meursault Perrières, Louis Jadot
A cool, intense, fine nose with notes of lemon peel, hazel nuts, hay, nougat and crushed rocks. Very fine and elegant. A note of wet asphalt emerges with air. This is beautiful. Still young.
The taste is tight, elegant and structured with notes of lemon cream, almond paste, hazel nuts and lots of sweet minerals. The acidity is fresh and lively. A long, long finish with a lovely warmth. Aaah, this is so good to drink!
93p   (tasted 2012/10)

1996 Meursault Les Perrières, Jean-Michel Gaunoux
A fine, elegant, cool nose with notes of sweet lemons, almonds, dried apricots and some smoky scents in the distance. Very fine. Lots of mineral notes emerges with air. Elegant and classy. This is still young. Lovely fruit.
The taste is bigger and sturdier than the nose leads on. More red than yellow apples, more smoky notes and more minerality in the taste. Its not that its not fine, it is, but the impression is that of a not really coherent wine. The individual parts is truly great, but together it is mere great. Does that make any form of sense?
91p   (tasted 2012/10)

1996 Chablis Les Clos, Joseph Drouhin
A broad, deep nose with notes of lemon peel, yellow apples, sun warm grass and a touch of oilcloth. A fine warmth to the fruit. Still young. Very good.
The taste is tight and full of sweet yellow fruit mixed with notes of parsnips, lemon tarte and warm herbs. A long, tight finish with a fresh acidity. This still has some maturing to do. Very fine.
89p   (tasted 2012/10)

1996 Chablis Valmur, Verget
A big, pure, sweet and deep nose with lovely notes lemon cream, almond paste, butter fried root vegetables, red apples and lots of sweet minerals. This is not for the faint hearted or those who love only the steely, unoaked form of Chablis.
The taste is big but very fresh, with a lot of warmth and notes of red apples, lemon cream, slate and an autumn fire. The acidity is fresh and holds the big fruit in its place. A very long, warm finish. Intense. A really fine wine. Another stunner from Verget.
92p   (tasted 2012/10)

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