Saturday 2 March 2013

In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter XVII

During the last couple of weeks I have opened single bottles of Brunello to go with with dinner. There is always fun to have multiple vintages to compare, or the same vintage but from different producers, but sometimes you just want to have one or two or three glasses of wine with dinner on a weekday. These bottles have been enjoyed that great way!

1990 Brunello di Montalcino, Tenuta Caparzo
An open, warm, mature nose with notes of sloe berries, violets, vanilla cooked cherries, licorice and some dry dark fudge. Velvety, mature and very fine. This is perfectly mature today.
The taste is round, sweet and soft with fine notes of lingonberries, red cherries, dried mushrooms, gravel, licorice and old leather. The finish is medium long and ends dry. This should be drunk sooner than later. Great wine for tonight. Interesting enough better than their Riserva from the same vintage, tasted a month ago.
88p   (tasted 2013/02)

2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, La Lecciaia
A young, big, juicy nose with warm notes of sweet ripe cherries, licorice, summer flowers, violets, rosemary bushes and fark chocolate. Open, fresh but not that complex. Good.
The taste is big, steady and more intense than the nose leads you to believe, with lots of sweet cherry fruit, firm tannins and a long, fine finish. There is a lot of warmth in the wine but on the right side of things. Fine notes of chocolate covered cherries, licorice, rosemary, rosehips and hot gravel. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2013/01)

2005 Brunello di Montalcino, Lisini
A deep, fine, somewhat mature nose with notes of fresh red cherries, tobacco, gravel, leather and a touch of balsamic vinegar. Deep and fine. Reminds me of a Bordeaux from time to time.
The taste is tight, fresh and medium bodied with notes of ripe red and black cherries, violets, gravel, cedar and some coffe notes. A medium long, fresh finish. Very nice to drink now, and it will keep for 10+ years but I don´t think it will get any better, just older.
86p   (tasted 2013/02)


2007 Brunello di Montalcino Val di Suga, Tenimenti Angelini
A young, racy, fresh nose with lots and lots of upfront sweet cherry fruit paired with notes of licorice, dried flowers, tea bags, violets, dark chocolate and a lovely perfumed scent. This has a winning personality, although still very young. Very, very good.
The taste is cool, tight and has a fine core of sweet cherry fruit, perky tannins and a medium long, fresh finish. Fine notes of licorice, gravel, model clay and dark chocolate. In the end of the finish there is a fine note of dried flowers/perfume. This will surely be stunning in 4-6 years time. Great wine in the making. I have to come to really like the 2007 as a vintage, more wines to follow.
91p   (tasted 2013/02)

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