Saturday 9 March 2013

In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter XX

Yesterday I opened the 1985 and 1988 Riserva from Fuligni - part two in this mini vertical.
Info about the estate here.

1985 Brunello di Montalcino, Fuligni
A very mature, open, meaty nose with notes of lingonberries, rowanberries, warm herbs and some rubbery notes. A bit of VA. I suspect that this has been stored a tad warm somewhere along the line. Becomes a bit muddled with air. Just ok.
The taste is also very mature, tight and a bit dry with notes of lingonberries, dried mushrooms, meat stock and gravel. The warmth is fine. Ends very dry, which works fine with the food but too dry on its own. I would guess that there is better bottles of this wine out there.
81p   (tasted 2013/03)

1988 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Fuligni
This is another creature altogether! A beautiful, open, sweet nose with notes of ripe red cherries, lingonberries, cigar ashes, warm tiles and forest floor. Very deep and elegant. This is perfectly mature and shows a grand balance. Lovely!
The taste is tight, ripe and elegant with perfectly melted tannins and stunning fruit, an notes of warm lingonberries, licorice, violets, hard cherry candy and veal stock. The finish is long, poised and warm. This is drinking perfectly now and would surely keep this way for another 5+ years. A delicious wine!
93p   (tasted 2013/03)

These wines - except for the rather poor showing of the 1985 - is right up my alley when it comes to Brunello and I would guess that the 2004 Riserva will become a legend in 8-10 years, if I can wait that long...

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