The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Part Three

Another day and more winegrowers to visit! You should think that tasting (spitting mind you!) wine from early morning until evening would make you tired, but being here in Langhe fills you with vigour and energy! We jumped in the car and drove to

Ciacomo Conterno
A visit to the cellar of Ciacomo Conterno is always a must on these thrips. The cellar is immaculate, you could eat of the floors. A new bottling machine was the first we saw, it looked more like a NASA project than anything else. Apparently so efficient that all bottling can be made in three days. Then it just stands there for 362 days...
Roberto greated us and we took a quick tour around the cellar before heading up to the tasting room where he opened these bottles. It is always a treat to get to sit down and talk to Roberto about the situation in Langhe, the latest vintages and everything else that makes life worthwhile.

2014 Barbera d´Alba Vigna Francia
A high, pure nose with lots of energy and notes of ripe black cherries, lingonberries, forest floor and raspberry liquorice. Very, very good.
The taste is seedy and forward with notes of mineral laden raspberries with some liquorice and smoke tossed in. A long, distinct finish with a fine high acidity. This is really fine.
93p   (tasted 2016/12)

2014 Barbera d´Alba Vigna Cerretta
The Cerretta is darker and a bit more concentrated than the Francia, with notes of damp earth, ripe raspberries, almond paste and mushrooms. Very, very good.
The taste is high and tight with notes of a mix of blueberries and raspberries with additional notes of sweet minerals, forest floor and smoke. A long, intense finish. As with the Francia, really fine.
93p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Francia
A deep, dense nose with notes of dried rose petals, dried up cherry jam, hard cherry candy and smoke. High and pure. A bit compact. Needs time to open up.
The taste is seedy and tight with high and mighty tannins and notes of dry liquorice, hard cherry candy, dry leaves and minerals. Very, very long and structured. Needs time.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Cerretta
A wonderfully perfumed nose with notes of ripe, dark cherries, raspberry liquorice, dried mushrooms and asphalt. Very deep. A hint of tobacco. This is really fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of dark cherry fruit, liquorice, forest floor and tobacco. A very long, balanced finish with lovely, polished tannins. This is goood!
95p   (tasted 2016/12)

2010 Monfortino
After tasting the wines above, we anxiously looked at Roberto. Would we get to taste the Monfortino? On our previous visits we have always tasted it from barrel in the cellar, and we had alreday visited the cellar...
But Roberto disappeared and came back with a unlabeled bottle - and yes - Monfortino! Apparently they have had fruit flies on the premises, so tasting in the cellar was a no no.
The nose is a dream with a depth and purity that is breathtaking. There are beautiful notes of rose petals, tiles, sweet/sour cherries and ceps. Deceptively light. Very balanced. Just great.
The taste is intense and refined with beatiful perfumed notes, perfectly balanced tannins and a finish that goes on and on and on. The 10 Monfortino is a beauty and perfection in the making. Give it 8+ years. Will be released in October 2017, time for those Lotto coupons to come through...
99p   (tasted 2016/12)

For lunch we went up to Verduno and Trattoria Dai Bercau, which Enrica Scavino had recommended. We shared a bottle from the nearby winery and I ate a delicious coniglio dish.

2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Dott G.B. Burlotto
A withdrawn, traditional nose with notes of sour cherries, burnt leaves, dried flowers and some rubber. A little VA at first, that blew away with some air. Very good.
The taste is warm and outgoing with notes of ripe red cherries, gravel and mushrooms. A medium long finish with a high acidity. Went very well with the coniglio.
86p   (tasted 2016/12)

Coniglio!

After lunch we headed to La Morra for our next visit. Cesare Bussolo met us and then we had a two hours great visit with lots of discussion and some fine wines.

Roberto Voerzio
2015 Dolcetto d´Alba Priavino
Cesare talked a lot of the Dolcetto and was noticable proud of it. As he should be, for this is really good. It has a fresh, open nose with notes of ripe raspberries, forest floor and balsa wood. Juicy and upfront.
The taste is young and sporty with a fine mix of raspberries and blueberries, a fresh acidity and a moderate length. This is good.
88p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Cerequio
A deep, ripe nose with notes of mature red cherries, raspberry liquorice, rosehips and rose water. Very fine. Deep.
The taste is young and tight with notes of sweet red cherries, liquorice, forest floor and fresh mushrooms. A long finish with juicy tannins. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata
The Rocche is a stunner, with its deep, concentrated nose full of ripe cherries, damp earth, red tea and some chocolate biscuits. Very fine. An ever so slight mint aroma.
The taste is young and tight with forceful tannins that have wrapped in the sweet cherry fruit. Very, very long. The finish is like sucking on some hard cherry candy. Great.
95p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo La Serra
The nose starts with lots of sweet minerals, but with some swirling notes of raspberry liquorice, forest floor and roships emerge from the glass. Dense and deep.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of violets, red cherries, crushed rocks and a hint of tobacco. A long finish with some sturdy tannins. Needs time. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)

2006 Barolo Fossati Case Nere Riserva 10 Anni
This late release is an awesome effort. The nose is deep, somewhat mature and rich with notes of candied cherries, sweet liquorice, autumn leaves, dried rose petals and some coffee scents. Very, very deep. The 10 years hade added lots of complexity. Just lovely.
The taste is pure, deep and complex with notes of sweet violets, dry cherry jam, black tea and rosehips. A long, very focused finish with nicely rounded tannins. Drinking great today will get even better with 5+ years. Splendid!
97p   (tasted 2016/12)

Altare
On our way to the evenings restaurant we made a quick pit stop at Altare and met up with Silvia, and tasted these 12´s.
2012 Barolo
The 12 Normale has a deep, finely tuned nose with notes of sweet/sour cherries, ceps, liquorice and gravel. Deep and fine. A velvety character.
The velvety character follows through on the palate with rich cherry fruit and notes of liquorice, dried flowers and a hint of chocolate. Very, very good. Long and rewarding.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Arborina
The Arborina is more concentrated than the Normale with a salty cherry candy feeling and lots of moist forest floor, and some really focused tannins, but feels more withdrawn than the Normale. Give it 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2016/12)

After the short visit to Altare we went to Trattoria La Coccinella in Serravalle. It turned out to be a real treat, the best restaurant visit of the trip.
We had a bottle of 2012 Arneis, Bruno Giacosa, the best Arnesis in Langhe, except for Vietti´s version, and it was, as always, fresh and juicy and was a perfect fit with my primo - lots of different raw fishes - one of the best dishes I have had this year.

Raw fish - it just melted in the mouth!

2011 Barolo Tre Tine, Giuseppe Rinaldi
We then opted for a Barolo (surprise!) to go along the rest of the meal. And this turned out a real treat. The nose is deep, multi layered and light as a feather, with lovely notes of pickled cherries, rose petals, ceps and some smoke in a distance. Very complex. Utterly gorgeous.
The taste is pure, racy and clean as a whistle with notes of hard cherry candy, raspberry liquorice, warm sand and minerals. Very long and focused. The real thing. So much better than the Brunate. Stunning.
96p   (tasted 2016/12)

Tripe lasagna!

A Guigal Lunch

Philippe Guigal was in town a couple of weeks ago and I was lucky enough to get invited to a lunch tasting, courtsey of Vinunic.

2015 Côtes du Rhone Blanc
A youngish, upfront nose with notes of a fruit salad, warm rocks and summer flowers. Light and nice.
The taste is good and fresh with notes of melon, mature apples and wet stones. Medium bodied. A very nice aperitife wine.
86p   (tasted 2016/11)

2014 Condrieu
A deep, spicy nose with notes of sun warm grape, smoke and minerals. Very good. Finely structured.
The taste is racy and fat (in a good way) with notes of grapefruit juice, hay and smoke. A fine acidity. Viognier isn´t my favourite grape, but this has vitality.
90p   (tasted 2016/11)

2012 Hermitage Blanc
A very flowery, rich nose with notes of ripe melon, yellow apples and spices. Very good. Deep.
The taste is big and broad with notes of mature apples, herbs and minerals. A touch of alcohol in the end of the finish. Very long.
88p   (tasted 2016/11)

2012 Côtes du Rhone
The red Côtes du Rhone has a young, perky nose with notes of blueberries, cloves and some peppery aromas. Light and good.
The taste is more rustic than the nose leads you to believe, with notes of dry blueberries, road dust and some pepper. A bit anonymous.
84p   (tasted 2016/11)

2013 Crozes Hermitage
A young, upfront nose with notes of grilled meat, liquorice and ripening blackberries. Very, very good. Has a fine depth.
The taste is tight and peppery with notes of blueberries, bay leaves and damp earth. A long finish with some juicy tannins. This is good.
89p   (tasted 2016/11)

2013 St. Joseph Vignes de l´Hospice
This is a beauty. A richly perfumed nose with stunning notes of ripe blueberries, raspberries, lavender, cloves and decaying flowers. Lovely.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of blueberries, ink, veal stock and crushed black peppers, A long, tightly knit finish with polished tannins. Love this one.
94p   (tasted 2016/11)

2012 Hermitage
The Hermitage displays a meaty nose with notes of spices, blackberries and a hint od dark chocolate. Deep and fine.
The taste is big and warm with notes of ripe blueberries, bay leaves, forest floor and smoke. A very good length. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2016/11)

2012 Côte-Rôtie Brunet et Blonde
A deep, black nose with notes of peppered blueberries, scorched earth, violet and crushed rocks. Very, very good.
The taste is medium bodied and linear with notes of veal stock, ripening blackberries and dried herbs. A fine minerality. A bit shy though. Give it 2-3 years.
90p   (tasted 2016/11)

2012 Château d´Ampuis
A wonderful, deep, perfumed nose with notes of sweet violets, gravel, liquorice and spicy blueberries. Very fine. Deep and refined.
The taste is young and big with notes of cool blueberries, bay leaves, asphalt and leather. Very handsome. Long and lingering.
93p   (tasted 2016/11)

2012 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline
Aaaaah - La Mouline, my favourite of the three La La´s. The 2012 is a stunner with deep, intense notes of white peppered blueberies, roasted nuts, veal meat and a beautiful flowery aroma. Very, very deep.
The taste is lovely, refined and focused with stunning fruit, velevety yet structured tannins and a finish that goes on for minutes. Considering what other world class wines are selling for these days, this seems like a bargain at 280 Euros...
98p   (tasted 2016/11)

2012 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne
The 12 La Landonne is denser and darker than the La Mouline, with notes of meat, iron, hot rocks and a wonderful smoky note. Very, very fine.
The taste is powerful, intense and meaty with notes of dark violets, smoke and ripe blackberries. A stunning concentration. Long, long, long. Needs 10+ years. Gorgeous.
97p   (tasted 2016/11)

1999 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline
I tasted all the 99´s when they were about the same age as the 12´s above, and then the La Mouline was a perfect specimen. Now, about 13 years later, this bottle isn´t. But make no mistake, it is still a lovely wine.
The nose is deep and perfumed with lovely notes of leather, raspberries, corinthians, moist forest floor and some rubbery scents. Very fine and balanced.
The taste is starting to mature with ripe raspberry fruit, and notes of fir, white pepper and smoke. The finish is very long and velvety. Drinking beautifully today but this still has 10+ years pleasure to give.
94p   (tasted 2016/11)

1999 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne
The 99 Landonne is still a brute, with a dark, concentrated nose filled to the brim with sweet, sweet blueberries, violets, blood & iron and some stable aromas. Very, very fine. After some time in the glass a fine scent of dried flowers emerge. This is truly great.
The taste is big and concentrated with notes of ripe blackberries, melted asphalt, violets, meat stock and bay leaves. The finish goes on for minutes and ends with some ripe tannins. Great now, great in 10+ years. A lovely bottle but a bottle three years ago was even better.
96p   (tasted 2016/11)

1964 Barbaresco & Barolo Riserva Speciale, Enopolia Di Bubbio

What to drink on your birthday? The same as always - one, two or more bottles from my birth year - The Greatest Vintage ever.

Both bottles opened at 14.00. Both felt quite murky, on the nose and palate right out of the bottle. I decanted them at 17.00 and drank them with dinner at 19.00, and the following two hours.

1964 Barbaresco, Enopolia di Bubbio
The Barbaresco shows a light, mature nose with notes of dried red cherries and strawberries, mushrooms and a moist forest floor. A bit hollow in the middle. Rather light. But still hanging in there.
The taste is mature, seedy and dry with notes of lingonberries, dried strawberries, gravel and old chocolate. Some dry tannins. A bit too old.
79p   (tasted 2016/12)

1964 Barolo Riserva Speciale, Enopolia di Bubbio
This has more stuffing and stature, with a deep, mature nose with notes of dried cherries, wild strawberries, violets and a hint of meat stock. Ripe, round and mature. Very good.
The taste is tight and mature with notes of dried raspberries, autumn leaves, warm gravel and dry asphalt. A medium long, balanced finish. In the end there still is some rugged tannins. Very, very good.
87p   (tasted 2016/12)

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Part Two

Aldo Conterno
The Barolo Boys arrived at 9.30 in the morning at the estate that in a distance looks like a the small village on the hillside. Ciacomo Conterno greated us and invited us in. He had said beforehand that he had an early appointment elsewhere, so we had prepared for a quick visit with a an ever quicker tasting.

We left four hours later. And we had experienced what would become the greatest visit on our Piedmont tour. Giacomo is rather low keyed in his expressions but his intensity, emotions and passion for the wines of his (and his brothers) eatate and the wines of Piedmont shines through everything he says.

Some may have read Gallonis notes of the wines below and wonder what have happened to this great estate and its wines. We also pondered that question. At least until the wines were poured.
The question after tasting the wines (same vintages as Galloni tasted) is instead - what is wrong with Galloni?! 87p for the most of the wines with a whopping 89p for the Romirasco! I don´t know if he suffered a heavy flue or had a massive hangover when he tasted these wines. Something along those lines or else - to paraphrase - "something is rotten in the state of Denmark"...

2013 Bussiador
This Langhe Chardonnay displays a creamy, structured nose with notes of candied lemons, summer flowers, white peaches and hazelnut cream. Very, very good. Ciacomo told us to leave the glass with some wine in it while we tasted the reds. Two hours later, in room temperature, the wine had taken on a deeper nose with pears and sweet minerals as the dominating scents. Really fine.
The taste is young and tight with a mineral driven yellow fruit and notes of sun warm rocks, white peach and a hit of smoke. A long finish with a fine acidity. As with the nose, the wine had taken on a deeper character with time in the glass. A fine bottle of Chardonnay.
91p   (tasted 2016/12)

2013 Il Favot
The Il Favot has a lovely perfume that flows out of the glass, with notes of sweet violets, rose petals, ripening red cherries and warm tiles. Very, very good. A youngish, outgoing character.
The taste is cool and pure with notes of crushed cherries, liquorice, fir and forest floor. A medium bodied finish with a fine mix of acidity and tannins that cleanse the palate.
91p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Colonnello
When I first put my nose in the glass I thought - "oh dear, did Galloni made a correct call"? The wine had a bit murky, somewhat dusty nose. Meanwhile we talked a bit and a few minutes later I put my nose in the glass again. What?! Cristal clear, with gorgeous cherry fruit, liquorice, mushrroms and a hint of tobacco. Very fine. And so it went on for the hours I tasted it, sometimes murky, sometimes lovely.
The taste is more linear and pure with notes of hard cherry candy, dark gravel, Christmas spices and a touch of asphalt. Long and distinct, with polished tannins. Will drink beautifully for many years to come.
93p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Cicala
The Cicala is a gorgeous creature. The nose is deep and profound with notes of dark cherries, sweet tobacco, undergrowth and a some wood smoke. Very refined. This is just lovely. Warm sand.
The taste is big, intense and multi layered with notes of ripe black cherries, cigarr smoke, mushrooms, fir and violets. A very, very long finish with some ripe, sturdy tannins. Needs time but all the parts are there for something really great to emerge in 8+ years time.
96p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Romirasco
A magnificent, deep and hauntingly beautiful nose with notes of the purest cherries imaginable, forest floor, raspberry liquorice and the aroma of a perfect late summer night in Italy. A high nose with a stunning purity. Some tobacco noires after a while. Almost perfect.
The taste is concentrated, focused and just brilliant with notes of ripe red and black cherries, forest floor, rosehips, asphalt and hard cherry candy. The finish goes on for minutes. A perfect wine in the making, just give it 6+ years. Magic. A wine that Galloni scored 89p - what a mistake.
98p   (tasted 2016/12)

2008 Barolo Granbussia Riserva
Supposedly the worst Granbussia ever produced, if Galloni is to be trusted (but as we have seen above, he isn´t). The 08 Granbussia displays a deep, refined and beautiful nose with notes of damp forest, spicy cherries, raspberry liquorice and chocolate wafers. A very handsome wine. Just great.
The taste is young, tight and concentrated with notes of sweet/sour cherries, forest floor, Christmas spices and an ever so tiny note of mint. The finish is two minute long with structured, polished tannins. Great now but will be even greater in 8+ years.
96p   (tasted 2016/12)

2006 Barolo Granbussia Riserva
The 06 is a masterpiece. The nose is truly wonderful with its ethereal yet focused and intense nose, with stunning notes of ripe cherries, black truffle, melted asphalt and liquorice. Lots of rose petals rise from the glass after a while. Very, very deep. Amazing.
The taste is the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove, with notes of ripe red cherries, warm gravel, rosehips and cigarr tobacco. The finish is counted in minutes. Beautiful sandy tannins cleanse the palate. As the Romirasco, a perfect specimen in the making. Give this beauty 6+ years. As good as the 1990 tasted a couple of weeks ago (with the 1982, 1996 and 2001)
98p   (tasted 2016/12)

The afternoon was spent in Alba, raiding the wine shops, but unfortunately, the prices have gone up radically the last couple of years. The wines that costed 50 Euros a couple of years ago, cost 100 Euro now. And it doesn´t seem that the winegrowers are making the money, we heard more than once that the wine that cost 30 Euro at the cellar door, cost between 90-120 Euro in the shops. Why?

In the evening we went to Trattoria Marsupino, ate and drank well and visited their cellar and took some inventory. :-)

2006 Gattinara, Nervi
A warm, spicy nose with notes of dark flowers, gravel, cooked fruit and some leathary aromas. Old style. Good.
The taste is big and warm with notes of scorched earth, Christmas spices, veal stock and road dust. Long and warm. A bit rustic.
86p   (tasted 2016/12)

2010 Barolo Sarmassa, Brezza
A young, finely tuned nose with notes of fresh roses, red cherries, paint and asphalt. Very, very good. Pure and fine.
The taste is exact and complex with notes of ripe red cherries, liquorice, dried flowers and wood smoke. A very fine, long finish with salivating tannins. Really good.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)

2011 Barolo Brunate, Giuseppe Rinaldi
A big, ripe nose with notes of cooked cherries, moist undergrowth, raspberry liquorice and smoke. A bit dense. Good though.
The taste is big and spicy with notes of cherry jam, smoke, dark liquorice and hot earth. Long and warm. Tasted blind and was surprised to see the label, would have thought it to better than this.
85p   (tasted 2016/12)

1976 Cabernet Sauvignon, Seaview

I wanted something mature, velvety and hopefully rich to go along some grilled veal burgers. I found a 30 year old Aussie Cab - lets pull the cork and keep my fingers crossed...

1976 Cabernet Sauvignon, Seaview
It opens a bit funky but with air it expands into a mature, warm Cabernet (and some Shiraz...?) with notes of dried blueberries, black currant leaves, violets, chocolate wafers and some nice band aid aromas. With air it becomes more animalic, with warm stables in a distance. Very, very good.
The taste is mature, warm and medium bodied with notes of dry blueberry pie, violets, chocolate, moist undergrowth and a hint of dry vanilla. Soft, velvety tannins. The finish ends dry and warm. This wears its 30 years with ease, but any remaining bottles should be drunk sooner than later.
88p   (tasted 2016/12)