I was invited by Winetable to meet Craig Hawkins, owner and winemaker of Testalonga, and taste some of his wines.
Testalonga is located in Swartland, South Africa, where Craig grows Chenin Blanc, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre and some other varieties.
Craig is "labeled" as a winemaker of natural wines, but these wines have no characteristics of those (bad) attributes that I associate with natural wines, they are just pure, well crafted wines.
2023 I am the Ninja
This Pet Nat, made from Chenin Blanc, comes from vines planted in 1961. The nose is upfront and juicy with notes of grass, green olives and birch leaves. Fresh and fine.
The taste is light and forward with notes of sweet lime, grass and a hint of mint. Very good. 10 gr of sugar.
87p (tasted 2025/03)
2023 Keep On Punching
From the same vineyard as the wine above. The nose is tight and fresh with notes of cement, oil cloth and ripening herbs.
The taste is grassy and nice with notes of herbs, white currants and a fresh acidity.
87p (tasted 2025/03)
2023 Cortez
This is a serious Chenin Blanc, although the label could fool you :-) (Craig makes all labels himself) with a cool, refined nose with notes of chrushed granite, lime peel, white pears and grass. Very fine.
The taste is high and pure with a cleansing acidity, gorgeous fruit and a long, layered finish.
92p (tasted 2025/03)
2023 Chenin Blanc de Maceration
This was a bit hazy in the glass and the nose the same with notes of dry herbs, orange peel and wet cement. A tad flat.
The taste is a bit stifled and mute with notes of dry lime, earth and old grass. Not bad per se but not my cup of tea.
80p (tasted 2025/03)
2023 Vin Rouge Paysan
This consists of equal parts of Carignan, Cinsault and Mourvedre. The nose is light and fresh with notes of red currants, ripe lingonberries, gravel and rosemary. Very, very good.
The taste is forward and juicy with perky tannins, light red fruit and a silky finish. Highly gulpable.
88p (tasted 2025/03)
2023 Follow your Dreams
100% Carignan. The nose is deep and seedy with notes of dried strawberries, fir smoke, earth and assorted herbs. A lovely low keyed ripeness to the fruit.
The taste is nicely structured with great fruit, a lovely balance and a long, snappy finish. 5+ years.
90p (tasted 2025/03)
2023 The Darks Side
100% Syrah. Ooh boy, this is a beauty. A smoky, delicate nose with notes of bacon, ripening blackberries, black pepper and dusty earth. Lovely in a low keyed yet intense way.
The taste is high and fine with an elegant structure, notes of smoke, dried raspberries, veal stock and earth. Very fine. I would have pegged this as a Côte-Rôtie every day of the week. 7+ years.
93p (tasted 2025/03)
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