Saturday, 8 February 2025

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Dinner With Pira & Marengo


This is the third year in a row where the Barolo Boys cook dinner for the Pira & Marengo families. We cook and bring wine that we think would suffice, but both Gianpaolo and Marco keeps popping bottles during the dinner. But we are not complaining.

2018 Sorangeon, Christian Gosset
A new producer for me and a very good one. This Blanc de Blancs offers up a crisp, handsome nose with notes of yellow plums, dry fudge, oranges and freshly washed linens. Lovely.
The taste is young and fresh as a daisy with notes of tangerines, nougat and fudge. A very fine acidity, long and juicy. Non dosage.
93p   (tasted 2025/01)


2023 Pittermännchen Riesling Kabinett, Joh. Bapt. Schäfer
A high, stern nose with lots of chrushed rocks, pear ice cream and lime peel. Very young and impressive.
The taste is pure and racy with great fruit, a cleansing acidity and a long, intense finish. 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2025/01)


2012 Abtserde, Keller
A tight, refined nose with notes of sweet minerals, lemon cream, lemon licorice and dried flowers. Very, very deep.
The taste is intense and complex with boatloads of fruit, acidity and structure. Still young. The finish goes on and on and on. 5+ years.
96p   (tasted 2025/01)

2008 Barbera d´Alba Pugnane, M. Marengo
A deep, forest filled nose with notes of sweet violets, smoke, Lily of the Valley and Finnish licorice. Very, very good.
The taste is open and fine with lots of ripe raspberries, licorice and smoke. A fine warmth in the finish. Some maturity.
91p   (tasted 2025/01)

1974 Barolo, Oddero
A mature, soft nose with notes of dried red fruits, sugared coffee and root vegetables. A tad thin in the middle.
The taste is old school with still firm tannins, dry red fruit and a long, dry finish. Still hanging in there but past its prime.
86p   (tasted 2025/01)



2007 Barbera d´Alba, Luigi Pira
A deep, tight nose with notes of raspberry cake, fir smoke, earth and licorice. Very, very good.
The taste is rich and focused with notes of ink, ripe raspberries, licorice and smoke. Still on the young side of things.
91p   (tasted 2025/01)

2009 Nebbiolo d´Alba Valmaggiore, M. Marengo
A round, maturing nose with notes of herbs, violets and cooked cherries. Very good.
The taste is open and soft with a warm cherry fruit, a fine acidity and a medium long finish.
86p   (tasted 2025/01)

1988 Dolcetto d´Alba  Bussia Soprana, Aldo Conterno
Who said that Dolcetto can´t age? A deep, forest filled nose with notes of dried blueberries, dry tobacco and ink. Very, very good.
The taste is mature and warm with notes of dried up bluberry jam, scorched earth and tobacco. Could go on for 5+ years.
89p   (tasted 2025/01)


2008 Barolo Riserva Vigna Delle Brunate, M. Marengo
A rich, intense nose with notes of hard cherry candy, asphalt, rosehips and shoe polish. Lovely.
The taste is structured and refined, still young, and filled to the brim with gorgeous cherry fruit. The finish goes on and on. 6+ years.
95p   (tasted 2025/01)



1993 Barolo Romirasco, Aldo Conterno
A very deep, perfectly mature Barolo with stunning notes of bay leaves, milk chocolate, dried strawberries and soft Langhe earth.
The taste is layered and delicate with notes of dry licorice, wild strawberries, rosehips and paint. A lovely dried up sweetness. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2025/01)

2007 Barolo Margheria, Luigi Pira
A still young, potent nose with notes of licorice, violets, iron and coffee powder. Very fine.
The taste is polished and concentrated with taut tannins and a lip smacking fine cherry fruit. 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2025/01)

1998 Barolo Brunate, Vietti
A deep, brilliant nose with notes of hard cherry candy, warm gravel, tobacco and a hint of mint. A lovely sweetness to the fruit. Almost fully mature.
The taste is focused and balanced with intense cherry fruit, silky tannins and a long, warm finish. Very handsome.
94p   (tasted 2025/01)


1998 Barolo Brunate, M. Marengo
A deep, smoky nose with notes of dried up cherry jam, herbs, fir wood and iron. Very fine.
The taste is still on the young side of things with notes of hard cherry candy, ink, tobacco and undergrowth. Very long. 4+ years.
93p   (tasted 2025/01)

Thursday, 6 February 2025

1978 Nebbiolo d´Alba, Terre del Barolo


1978 Nebbiolo d´Alba, Terre del Barolo
Terre del Barolo gets a lot of bad rap, and in most cases justifiably so. But this old Nebbiolo d´Alba proved that they, at least then, could make a decent wine.
The nose is round and mature with notes of dried red berries, polished furniture, rosehips and wet earth. A fine balsamic note.
The taste is dry and nicely structured with some still kicking tannins and a fine warmth. A tad short though. A very nice Wednesday drink.
86p   (tasted 2025/02)

Wednesday, 5 February 2025

The Barolo Boys In Piemont - Visit To Umberto Fracassi


The Barolo Boys are back in Cherasco, visiting Sig. Umberto Fracassi. It is my third visit to this gentleman who turns 90 this autumn (notes from previous visits below).


2022 Langhe Nascetta
A light, smoky nose with notes of lemon licorice, white currants and assorted spices.
The taste is crisp and fine with notes of fresh grass, lemon peel and a supporting acidity.
87p   (tasted 2025/01)


2022 Langhe Favorita
A warm, spicy nose with notes of oranges, hay and chrushed rocks.
The taste is medium bodied with flowery notes and a fine acidity. A tad short.
85p   (tasted 2025/01)

2023 Dolcetto d´Alba
A young, upfront nose with notes of cranberries, earth and iron. Needs time.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of blueberries, earth and dry tobacco. Fine tannins.
86p   (tasted 2025/01)

2013 Dolcetto d´Alba Ciabòt Brusá
When I told Umberto earlier that I had drunk a 11 year old Dolcetto from him - Barolista: Two Bottles Of 2013 Dolcetto d´Alba - he said - no, no, you drink Dolcetto young!
Baah, I thought, and brought a bottle with me. This bottle showed the same as the previous bottle but I could tell that Umberto preferred his -21. So did I.
87p   (tasted 2025/01)


2021 Dolcetto d´Alba Ciabòt Brusá
A finely tuned, deep nose with notes of ripe blueberries, asphalt, dried cherries and bakelite. A very fine warmth.
The taste is tight and focused with gorgeous red/black fruit, structured tannins and a long, fresh finish.
91p   (tasted 2025/01)

2020 Barbera d´Alba Superiore Ciabot Contessa
A stunning Barbera with a open, inky nose with notes of ripe raspberries, fir wood, fried herbs and hot gravel. Very fine.
The taste is taut and creamy with notes of raspberry candy, ripe herbs and warm tiles. A long, juicy finish. Lovely.
93p   (tasted 2025/01)



2022 Langhe Nebbiolo
A somewhat foursquare nose with notes of cooked cherries, wet asphalt and dry licorice.
The taste is is a bit all over the place with cool cherry fruit, soft tannins and a short finish. Wait and see.
84p   (tasted 2025/01)

2020 Barolo Mantoetto
The Mantoetto shows a spicy, warm nose with notes of dried roses, root vegetables, ink and red cherries.
The taste is tight and nicely concentrated with notes of hard cherry candy, cinnamon, dried roses and Langhe earth. A long, refined finish. 7+ years.
93p   (tasted 2025/01)



Previous visits to Umberto & wines tasted:




Monday, 3 February 2025

2018 Dolcetto d´Alva Vignavillej, Brovia


2018 Dolcetto d´Alva Vignavillej, Brovia
A still young, deep nose with notes of red currants, fir wood, bakelite and iron. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and polished with notes of red currants, ripening blueberries, smoke and ink. Handsome and very fine.
91p   (tasted 2025/01)

Saturday, 1 February 2025

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Eating & Drinking


Visiting Langhe is not all about tasting wine, its also a chance to eat really well and actually drink some wine. We managed to do just that. 

Roberto Conterno´s new restaurant, opened in Bovio´s old premises. A nice modern interior, although I prefer the home away from home feeling you get at for example La Coccinella.
The food is very, very good but not in the league of Osteria Veglio or La Coccinella. 
The wine list is a gem, Roberto´s own wines are priced in the stratosphere (one could have thought that this would have been a chance to offer these stunning wines to a larger crowd than millionaires, but no). Besides the heavy hitters you can find lots of wines priced really fairly.

2022 Dives Sauvignon Blanc, Burlotto
The nose is high and fine with notes of freshly cut grass, white currants, birch leaves and gravel.
The taste is pure and dry with a fine acidity and notes of lemon licore, gravel and hay.
88p   (tasted 2025/01)



2023 Langhe Nebbiolo Bricco Lago, Cascina Penna-Currado
We met up with Luca Currado the day after at Grandi Langhe and complimented him on this fine effort (and we also tasted his Barbera, even greater!). 
The nose is deep and layered with notes of violets en masse, shoe polish, licorice and minerals. Very fine.
The taste is spicy and refined with notes of cinnamon, licorice and ripe flowers. Silky tannins. Lovely.
93p   (tasted 2025/01)

2016 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione, Brovia
A structured, a tad restrained nose with notes of hard cherry candy, bakelite, dried flowers and a fine perfumed note. Opened up nicely and becomes sweeter with air.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of asphalt, red cherries, violets and hints of tobacco. Very long with taut tannins. 8+ years.
95p   (tasted 2025/01)





2013 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc, Scavino
A large scaled yet refined nose with notes of ripe black cherries, salmiak, fried nuts, wet gravel and Langhe earth. Simply stunning.
The taste is rich and concentrated with sweet/sour cherries, licorice, coffee powder and violets. The finish goes on and on. Great wine. Glad I have some bottles. 6+ years.
97p   (tasted 2025/01)


Lunch at this Serralunga restaurant with a stunning view. The food is very good but the wine list is out of this world. If you have the money, they have the wine, guaranteed, just look at the pics from the cellar at the bottom of this post. 

2021 Langhe Nebbiolo, Giuseppe Rinaldi
Usually a stunner and from the great vintage of -21 we thought we were in for a treat. But no, a very good wine but not great this time. The nose is deep and handsome with notes of beet roots, smoke and fine spices. Very, very good but doesn´t have the lift it usually has.
The taste is balanced and fine with notes of red cherries, incense and Langhe earth. Medium long. Drink now, according to this bottle.
90p   (tasted 2025/01)





2013 Barolo Sorano, Claudio Alario
A warm, fine nose with notes of dried up cherry jam, fir wood and cough medicin. Opened up nicely in the glass. A fine depth.
The taste is structured and fine with ripe cherry fruit, still perky tannins and a long, warm finish. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2025/01)


Back in the days, around 2008, we were always at Le Torri, when it was managed by the couple who now runs Mangé in La Morra. The years went by and now it was time for a revisit. It is now run by a whole family, we got to meet mother, brother and sister while the father was busy in the kitchen. Great people, lovely food and a fine wine list (but I can´t say I like wine lists on a iPad...)

2023 Langhe Nebbiolo, Burlotto
A cool, elegant nose with notes of red currants, old church furniture, a light peppery note and iron. Very fine.
The taste is pure and silky with juicy red fruit, soft tannins and a long, fresh finish. High drinkability on this one.
91p   (tasted 2025/01)




Finanziera!

2021 Barbera d´Alba Pre-Phylloxera, Elvio Cogno
A very deep, tight nose with notes of plums, ripe black cherries, Finnish licorice, red beet juice and smoke. Lovely in a outgoing style.
The taste is rich and concentrated with notes of dark raspberry jam, licorice, some chocolate notes and asphalt. A very long finish and a cleansing acidity. 
93p   (tasted 2025/01)


The cellar at Tota Virginia:








Wednesday, 29 January 2025

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Visit To Podere Ruggeri Corsini


This was a wonderful visit and a testament of all the genuine, fantastic people that makes Langhe the paradise on earth that it is. Its not all about the wines. :-)
We were met by Franceska and Vittoria, the daughters of Loredana and Nicola, who owns and manage the estate. 
The estate started in 1995 and -96 was their first vintage. They make ca 90.000 bt/year and have an impressive line up with 14 different labels, of which we tasted 12.
This Langhe trip started in the best possible way. Info here - Ruggeri Corsini,

2023 Langhe Rosato
A very fine, wild strawberry filled nose with additional notes of gravel, spices and orange peel.
The taste is cool and fine with a very fine acidity. Very fine and refreshing.
89p   (tasted 2025/01)


2023 Langhe Bianco
A blend of 50% Arneis, 30% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Chardonnay. A fine, spicy nose with notes of grape, chrushed rocks and fresh herbs.
The taste is young and handsome with notes of wet cement, herbs and grape peel. A very fine acidity. First vintage 2007.
91p   (tasted 2025/01)



2023 Langhe Bianco Berlu´d Ciat
This is made from the, for me, unknown grape Baratuciat. The nose is cool and restrained with a very fine perfumed note alongside notes of grass and gravel.
The taste is high and fresh with juicy yellow fruit and a long, balanced finish. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2025/01)

2023 Viognier
This is only the third vintage of this wine. The nose has the tell tale signs of Viognier with notes of fresh flowers, fragrant soap and earth.
Although it differs from most Viognier in that it has a fresh, vibrant acidity, which I lack in most Viognier. Notes of dried apricots, cement and hay.
87p   (tasted 2025/01)

2022 Langhe Chardonnay Lolly
A fine, open nose with notes of lemon cream, dry fudge, fried spices and matchbox. Very fine.
The taste is pure and racy with a fine acidity and creamy yellow fruit. Long and fine.
91p   (tasted 2025/01)

2023 Dolcetto d´Alba
An open, stony nose with notes of sloe berries, blueberries, iron and dusty earth. 
The taste is young and seedy with juicy tannins and a fine blueberry fruit.
87p   (tasted 2025/01)


2023 Barbera d´Alba
A fresh, earthy nose with notes of raspberry licorice, plums and sweet tobacco. Very, very good.
The taste is pure and fine with a very good acidity and lovely ripe black cherry fruit.
89p   (tasted 2025/01)


2022 Barbera d´Alba Superiore Armujan
A stunner. From very old vines this sports a deep, focused nose with notes of ripe wild raspberries, fir smoke, Finnish licorice and warm earth. 
The taste is rich and layered with gorgeous black fruit, a perfect acidity and a long, long finish.
93p   (tasted 2025/01)

2019 Langhe Pinot Nero Argamakov
A deep, slightly mature nose with chrushed strawberries, candle grease, root vegetables and moist earth. Lovely.
The taste is round and velevety with a fine depth and warmth, and sweet red fruits that coats the palate.
91p   (tasted 2025/01)



2022 Langhe Nebbiolo
A pure, fresh nose with notes of licorice, violets, dried flowers and Langhe earth. Very, very good.
The taste is cool and spicy with silky tannins and a fine cherry fruit. Long.
90p   (tasted 2025/01)

2021 Barolo Bricco San Pietro
The Bricco San Pietro offers up a tight, structured nose with notes of ripe cherries, asphalt, bakelite and ripe flowers. Very handsome and fine.
The taste is nicely concentrated and layered with silky tannins, lovely cherry fruit and a long, iron filled finish. 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2025/01)


2021 Barolo Bussia Corsini
The Bussia Corsini is a beauty. Very deep and rich, the nose soars from the glass with stunning notes of veal meat, truffles, asphalt and hard cherry candy. 
The taste is a posterchild of that old saying of tar & roses, with an impressive structure, taut tannins and a minute long finish. 10+ years. Great wine.
96p   (tasted 2025/01)

2022 Albarossa Autenzio
To finish this great visit another wine from a rather odd grape is poured, a 100% Albarossa, a variety created in 1938 from a crossing between Barbera and Chatus. 
The nose is big, brawny and dark with notes of plums, ripe sage, moist earth and sun warm asphalt.
The taste is broadshouldered and rich with warm black fruit, big tannins and a long, fiery finish. Not for the faint hearted but very interesting.
89p   (tasted 2025/01)



Wednesday, 22 January 2025

2023 Dolcetto d´Alba, Ferdinando Principiano


2023 Dolcetto d´Alba, Ferdinando Principiano
A young, open nose with notes of red currants, iron, bakelite and dried flowers. Very nice in a low key way.
The taste is young and fresh with nice fruit, silky tannins and a medium long finish. A tad anemic in the finish though.
85p   (tasted 2025/01)

Sunday, 19 January 2025

Two Bottles From Rioja


2019 Nivarius Edición Limitada, Bodegas Nivarius
A fine, stony nose with notes of lemon cream, spices, candle grease, rubber and some smoky scents. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and balanced with lovely yellow fruit, a medium bodied acidity and a long, structured finish. Obviously a 95p Decanter wine, but how fine it is, its not nowhere those heights.
90p   (tasted 2024/11)

2021 Orben, Bodegas Artevino
A deep, low keys meaty nose with notes of wet cement, dried up strawberry jam, fresh flowers and spices. Gorgeous.
The taste is structured and very fine with notes of damsons, dried strawberries, licorice and scorched earth. The finish is very long and intense. Very fine.
93p   (tasted 2024/11)

Friday, 17 January 2025

Two Bottles Of Barolo


1973 Barolo Cascina Zoccolaio, Giovanni Scanavino
An earthy, low keyed nose with notes of cold coffee, dried flowers, dried red berries and old licorice.
The taste is dry and tight with earthy notes, soft tannins and a medium long, dry finish.
83p   (tasted 2024/12)

2020 Barolo Del Comune di Serralunga d´Alba, Ferdinando Principiano
An open, flirty nose with notes of red apples, dried strawberries, licorice and chrushed rocks. Very, very good.
The taste is young and fruity with perky tannins and notes of violets, bakelite and sweet red fruit. 6+ years.
88p   (tasted 2024/12)